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About roybatty666

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    Worthing, West Sussex

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  1. I reiterate not my wish to bad mouth and appretiate every one honouring that and not throwing out names of any company. I really do like the company in question. My shifting is notchy now and you can hear a grind that goes up with rpm/gear. Called and was told I'd get a call back been 2 days. I even offered to buy another one and refund once resolved . I have kids and one goes to a special school so have to go pick him up when they call etc so can't have car off the road for ages. I've bought a second hand one that allegedly runs fine doesn't leak and had clear oil, which is a s
  2. The Mrs Christmas present is now sorted though so silver (or gold ) lining 🤣
  3. Indeed, things happen and with recon stuff and even building brand new things you can build to the best tolerances and specs on a jig and it only takes one duff part that doesn't show untill it's stressed in a real world situation. I was in engineering before IT so both professions have taught me to expect a storm period when you "go live". Hence I'm not annoyed, just frustrating as currently my only car and old box was lovely bar 2nd syncro. The engineer in me is just interested as to the issue. And the doubter in me kept trying to convince myself it was "normal" until I poured
  4. Good advice I'm not too worried on them not resolving it as while I won't name names as don't think thats on, they are reputable bunch who I've been a customer of for years. They have said they are happy to have a look at it. Just a royal pain as I work / look after kids and I no longer have a second car so finding time to do it and be without a car etc. This will be third time its out as the main seal I put in failed to had to do it again with an HS2.8 seal (should have done thatto start with lol) I'm down gearbox and clutch off in 4.5 hours on my back now so becoming a pro ha
  5. Maybe for decorating my Christmas cards 😂 Same amount of oil came out as went in so no leaks or vanish fluid. Just intrigued as to what it is as so persistent through all gears, and must be a baulk ring or other brass/bronze component. Feels like some sort of thrust related issue but I'm no transmission expert in the slightest lol 🤨🤔 Will call them tomorrow as can't really be car less for long so rather buy another and sort money out later. Fun fun fun
  6. Had a strange noise from my new recon r380 and value some advice before I deal with retuning it to make sure I'm not pissing something. Been doing big build in my daily 1996 300tdi, 35" tyres 4" lift, full corrected arms, adjustable A frame, Ashcroft shafts, a painful pricey experience getting Nige to rebuild my 2nd hand lockers, (tab locked pegged, HD CW&P) you name it I'm doing it, so my r380 had no 2nd her synchro so for a recon box, as well as a LOF power spec clutch kit, and new clutch slave and mater and braided line. Bit of a faff to swap on my own but at least car is off
  7. Well doing a service on the 300tdi I pulled the pan to reseal it as it had a slight leak, when I crapped my pants after finding this in the pan. No sparkles in oil and 90k mile 1996 engine/disco that pulls like a champion on 35s So after I pulled myself together, holding back the tears of what maybe new engine time and cleaned the bits to see what they could be from I realised they are not metal but hard rubber yay😎. Question is what are they off, seems like maybe the cut off end of a T seal? Square end is a definite end piece of something and about 5,6mm almost Composit hard ru
  8. At my old engineering company we used to "chemical Black" our jigs and tooling t stop your hands rusting them. t was also a tough anti chip/scratch coating
  9. I though rose joints die even faster as they are not designed to be dunked in mud so are not sealed? How about a very good quality poly bush? I use Original metal elastics but don't compete so don't eat them that fast, but in some pivot points maybe Polys' are the way to go? I am sure some of the big boys with their custom rigs can comment with some actual experience
  10. no probs, I don't for bearings, bushes etc but for some bits I am not fussed
  11. There should be a grease nipple on the shaft to help it move more freely
  12. I got a britpart one and it seems very rigid (which was a plus as it is less prone to collapsing) from lrseries.com. It was far cheaper than the LR part and as it is not a wearing part I didn't think it mattered clicky
  13. And about £5 cheaper it is only an m12 bolt after all cheers chap
  14. I am sure that I read that even with 3" of lift the sideways location of the axle is only out by 4mm or something tiny? Which in Land Rover terms is nothing The whole point of the Panhard rod being close to parallel is to keep the axle in the same lateral position. Unless you are fitting a non LR axle and need to play with the Panhard rod length I wouldn't bother
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