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About roybatty666

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Worthing, West Sussex
  1. Well doing a service on the 300tdi I pulled the pan to reseal it as it had a slight leak, when I crapped my pants after finding this in the pan. No sparkles in oil and 90k mile 1996 engine/disco that pulls like a champion on 35s So after I pulled myself together, holding back the tears of what maybe new engine time and cleaned the bits to see what they could be from I realised they are not metal but hard rubber yay😎. Question is what are they off, seems like maybe the cut off end of a T seal? Square end is a definite end piece of something and about 5,6mm almost Composit hard rubber not squishy. Like I say low miles good strong engine, had the valve cover off and now pan and she seems spot on. Any ideas? Will provide more car prawn pics of the beast on correct guess 🤣
  2. At my old engineering company we used to "chemical Black" our jigs and tooling t stop your hands rusting them. t was also a tough anti chip/scratch coating
  3. I though rose joints die even faster as they are not designed to be dunked in mud so are not sealed? How about a very good quality poly bush? I use Original metal elastics but don't compete so don't eat them that fast, but in some pivot points maybe Polys' are the way to go? I am sure some of the big boys with their custom rigs can comment with some actual experience
  4. no probs, I don't for bearings, bushes etc but for some bits I am not fussed
  5. There should be a grease nipple on the shaft to help it move more freely
  6. I got a britpart one and it seems very rigid (which was a plus as it is less prone to collapsing) from lrseries.com. It was far cheaper than the LR part and as it is not a wearing part I didn't think it mattered clicky
  7. And about £5 cheaper it is only an m12 bolt after all cheers chap
  8. I am sure that I read that even with 3" of lift the sideways location of the axle is only out by 4mm or something tiny? Which in Land Rover terms is nothing The whole point of the Panhard rod being close to parallel is to keep the axle in the same lateral position. Unless you are fitting a non LR axle and need to play with the Panhard rod length I wouldn't bother
  9. The prop is balanced so you should be able to fit it any way you fancy. It is telescopic to allow for the increase in drive train length when the suspension extends/compression you should be able to just pull it out a bit, in fact you need to collapse it a little to get it over the spigots on the flanges when refitting it oh and you will find that 1cm is a good tolerance in the world of Land Rovers
  10. I am worried about ceased nuts as I did the center pipe last month and all the bolts sheared so I am not holding out for the bolts at the turbo end Would the FTC4111 bolt stops be the same as on a tdi300 Disco as my hub / swivels is off one of those following my 24 spline upgrade All the pipes are new from when I changed the axles and fitted the new +5 suspension kit I haven't done welding for a long time and will be practicing a fair bit before hand and will take a week of work to give me plenty of time to do it. I used to work in engineering doing machine work / concept modeling and even went off into electronic engineering so should be all right I am not to proud to get it finally welded by a pro if I think my welding isn't up to it. I will be doing the foot wells first anyway after my practice runs so will have an idea of how well its going to go. Not to mention all the helpful practice and getting a feel for the metal / welder settings that Paddocks affords me by selling such carp that needs reworking before fitting
  11. Darn it, I thought my MOT was a way off but it is on the 25th of March All the transmission, axle, suspension, steering work (read replaced) has made sure all that is top notch, but I have been putting off the mass of welding that I need to do to get her to go through. How she got through the last MOT I do not know The foot wells need doing - Bought YRM jobbies already The drivers side out rigger has a small hole on the rear face - I will plate that The rear cross member is shocking I could pull the hitch out with my hands!! - Now I know most replacements are pants so I plumped for a Paddocks cheap and cheerfull special which I will seem weld the main joins if they are too bad as for £119 I don't care that much. I want to put a galv chassis on in a few years so only needs to last until then The tyres rub so need to do my lock stops - I am missing one bolt so need to do that The exhausts down pipe is split - New one ordered The corners of my bulkhead are rusty (to say the least) but oddly the lower door pillars are rock solid- still deciding what to do on that So a bit of a list of things to do, everything else should be fine as is all new pretty much A few questions if you would be so kind The bolts for the swivel stops are standard M12 ones but how long are they? or if anyone knows the code for the genuine ones as I can find the lock nut for them on lrseries.com but not the bolt as I am struggling to find non stainless m12 bolts in small quantities anywhere else I seem to recall reading that changing the down pipe can be a pig with the bolts in the turbo ceasing requiring the turbo removing turning the whole thing into a big job. is this the case or should I be all right? If it makes any difference it has a 200tdi defender engine in it but as it was a 2.5td they kept that exhaust for ease of fitment cheers chaps
  12. I got a set of 31x10.5x15 from Paddocks for about £110 a wheel & tyre and they have done me proud (mine don't have the ribbing)
  13. There were people out in T-shirts out the front of our house today (we live on the coast road) the sun was out and it felt strangely like a summer day I want more snow damn it
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