roybatty666

I reiterate not my wish to bad mouth and appretiate every one honouring that and not throwing out names of any company. I really do like the company in question. My shifting is notchy now and you can hear a grind that goes up with rpm/gear. Called and was told I'd get a call back been 2 days. I even offered to buy another one and refund once resolved . I have kids and one goes to a special school so have to go pick him up when they call etc so can't have car off the road for ages. I've bought a second hand one that allegedly runs fine doesn't leak and had clear oil, which is a step up on mine lol i do like having spares anyway (not sure why I need 5 diffs. But if this box runs well then will see what I'll do with the other once they have inspected it and suggested a resolution. As the thought of changing it again and maybe having a worse clatter or something I think recon boxes are as much as a crab shoot as second hand. I wouldn't like to be in that trade and repairing stuff tike that. I am using this to buy more parts as you do, make me feel like gearbox off is needed for other sruff. Lol. New machined flywheel with new dowels and ring gear, I thought mine looked fine before but slight judder with new clutch so thought I would change it. Sign of a good company wrapping it in grease paper. Lol

The Mrs Christmas present is now sorted though so silver (or gold ) lining 🤣

Indeed, things happen and with recon stuff and even building brand new things you can build to the best tolerances and specs on a jig and it only takes one duff part that doesn't show untill it's stressed in a real world situation. I was in engineering before IT so both professions have taught me to expect a storm period when you "go live". Hence I'm not annoyed, just frustrating as currently my only car and old box was lovely bar 2nd syncro. The engineer in me is just interested as to the issue. And the doubter in me kept trying to convince myself it was "normal" until I poured the glitter out

Good advice I'm not too worried on them not resolving it as while I won't name names as don't think thats on, they are reputable bunch who I've been a customer of for years. They have said they are happy to have a look at it. Just a royal pain as I work / look after kids and I no longer have a second car so finding time to do it and be without a car etc. This will be third time its out as the main seal I put in failed to had to do it again with an HS2.8 seal (should have done thatto start with lol) I'm down gearbox and clutch off in 4.5 hours on my back now so becoming a pro haha

Maybe for decorating my Christmas cards 😂 Same amount of oil came out as went in so no leaks or vanish fluid. Just intrigued as to what it is as so persistent through all gears, and must be a baulk ring or other brass/bronze component. Feels like some sort of thrust related issue but I'm no transmission expert in the slightest lol 🤨🤔 Will call them tomorrow as can't really be car less for long so rather buy another and sort money out later. Fun fun fun

Had a strange noise from my new recon r380 and value some advice before I deal with retuning it to make sure I'm not pissing something. Been doing big build in my daily 1996 300tdi, 35" tyres 4" lift, full corrected arms, adjustable A frame, Ashcroft shafts, a painful pricey experience getting Nige to rebuild my 2nd hand lockers, (tab locked pegged, HD CW&P) you name it I'm doing it, so my r380 had no 2nd her synchro so for a recon box, as well as a LOF power spec clutch kit, and new clutch slave and mater and braided line. Bit of a faff to swap on my own but at least car is off the ground enough so can do it with the tyres on tarmac haha. All went together fine oil in etc, first start I quickly turned it off as the gear chatter sounded awful. , Reassure it was lack of tunnel cover and HD clutch etc. Knocking never got better and you could feel it through the clutch pedal as you put pressure on it but it backed off if you stopped clutch movement at any point so not the new release bearing. This rotational knock turned into a rumble /grind on higher rpm shifts. It got worse so spoke with Luke at LOF whos so helpful, went though lots of things and ended up ruling out clutch. Then I started to hear and feel the noise in gear driving , it was previously masked by the tyres and the 300tdi purrrrrr haha Tested and the rotational knock/graunch is there when stationary and with tbox in neutral and gets faster with progressive higher gears and/or engine revs. You can also feel it though the gear stick, at high revs it sounds like a dead release bearing sound. I dropped the oil and no real metal on the magnet but blimey the oil is like gold glitter glue, the pictures don't do it justice. And this is just 300 miles of road use. Spoken With the company who obviously want it back to investigate but was rather hoping for more discussion on the issue and my findings to make sure I'm not sending back a good box (don't think I am) and have to be without my daily drive for who knows how long. I guess they don't want to speculate and say something they then get held to So if you guys could look at the pics and comment if the oil looks normal for first change on a rebuilt box that would be fantastic, I dropped in a pic of my baby as that's always need for context

Well doing a service on the 300tdi I pulled the pan to reseal it as it had a slight leak, when I crapped my pants after finding this in the pan. No sparkles in oil and 90k mile 1996 engine/disco that pulls like a champion on 35s So after I pulled myself together, holding back the tears of what maybe new engine time and cleaned the bits to see what they could be from I realised they are not metal but hard rubber yay😎. Question is what are they off, seems like maybe the cut off end of a T seal? Square end is a definite end piece of something and about 5,6mm almost Composit hard rubber not squishy. Like I say low miles good strong engine, had the valve cover off and now pan and she seems spot on. Any ideas? Will provide more car prawn pics of the beast on correct guess 🤣

At my old engineering company we used to "chemical Black" our jigs and tooling t stop your hands rusting them. t was also a tough anti chip/scratch coating

I though rose joints die even faster as they are not designed to be dunked in mud so are not sealed? How about a very good quality poly bush? I use Original metal elastics but don't compete so don't eat them that fast, but in some pivot points maybe Polys' are the way to go? I am sure some of the big boys with their custom rigs can comment with some actual experience

Hammer on Torx socket?

no probs, I don't for bearings, bushes etc but for some bits I am not fussed

There should be a grease nipple on the shaft to help it move more freely

I got a britpart one and it seems very rigid (which was a plus as it is less prone to collapsing) from lrseries.com. It was far cheaper than the LR part and as it is not a wearing part I didn't think it mattered clicky

And about £5 cheaper it is only an m12 bolt after all cheers chap

I am sure that I read that even with 3" of lift the sideways location of the axle is only out by 4mm or something tiny? Which in Land Rover terms is nothing The whole point of the Panhard rod being close to parallel is to keep the axle in the same lateral position. Unless you are fitting a non LR axle and need to play with the Panhard rod length I wouldn't bother

The prop is balanced so you should be able to fit it any way you fancy. It is telescopic to allow for the increase in drive train length when the suspension extends/compression you should be able to just pull it out a bit, in fact you need to collapse it a little to get it over the spigots on the flanges when refitting it oh and you will find that 1cm is a good tolerance in the world of Land Rovers

I am worried about ceased nuts as I did the center pipe last month and all the bolts sheared so I am not holding out for the bolts at the turbo end Would the FTC4111 bolt stops be the same as on a tdi300 Disco as my hub / swivels is off one of those following my 24 spline upgrade All the pipes are new from when I changed the axles and fitted the new +5 suspension kit I haven't done welding for a long time and will be practicing a fair bit before hand and will take a week of work to give me plenty of time to do it. I used to work in engineering doing machine work / concept modeling and even went off into electronic engineering so should be all right I am not to proud to get it finally welded by a pro if I think my welding isn't up to it. I will be doing the foot wells first anyway after my practice runs so will have an idea of how well its going to go. Not to mention all the helpful practice and getting a feel for the metal / welder settings that Paddocks affords me by selling such carp that needs reworking before fitting

Darn it, I thought my MOT was a way off but it is on the 25th of March All the transmission, axle, suspension, steering work (read replaced) has made sure all that is top notch, but I have been putting off the mass of welding that I need to do to get her to go through. How she got through the last MOT I do not know The foot wells need doing - Bought YRM jobbies already The drivers side out rigger has a small hole on the rear face - I will plate that The rear cross member is shocking I could pull the hitch out with my hands!! - Now I know most replacements are pants so I plumped for a Paddocks cheap and cheerfull special which I will seem weld the main joins if they are too bad as for £119 I don't care that much. I want to put a galv chassis on in a few years so only needs to last until then The tyres rub so need to do my lock stops - I am missing one bolt so need to do that The exhausts down pipe is split - New one ordered The corners of my bulkhead are rusty (to say the least) but oddly the lower door pillars are rock solid- still deciding what to do on that So a bit of a list of things to do, everything else should be fine as is all new pretty much A few questions if you would be so kind The bolts for the swivel stops are standard M12 ones but how long are they? or if anyone knows the code for the genuine ones as I can find the lock nut for them on lrseries.com but not the bolt as I am struggling to find non stainless m12 bolts in small quantities anywhere else I seem to recall reading that changing the down pipe can be a pig with the bolts in the turbo ceasing requiring the turbo removing turning the whole thing into a big job. is this the case or should I be all right? If it makes any difference it has a 200tdi defender engine in it but as it was a 2.5td they kept that exhaust for ease of fitment cheers chaps

I got a set of 31x10.5x15 from Paddocks for about £110 a wheel & tyre and they have done me proud (mine don't have the ribbing)

There were people out in T-shirts out the front of our house today (we live on the coast road) the sun was out and it felt strangely like a summer day I want more snow damn it

Cat?

I was very impressed with my insa turbo Saharas' today even when testing them in the works' car park they didn't want to spin

been at work for an hour now, was not impressed getting up this morning until I looked out the window!!! we have between 4-6" (I am disapointed at the lack of winky jokes so far) even on the main roads with the back roads totaly untouched. Grip was fantastic, was a buit sceptical of the rear Detroit causing the inside wheel to spind and slide the abck out but that didn't happen at all, no spinning at all, even in tehj works car park it was almost impossible to spin up and even heavy breaking wasn't so bad on nobbly muds. Now all I need it another 12" (arf arf, sorry had to be done) and I am taking a day off to go play

LRSeries They seem to be out of left hand ones, they may do the non galvinised in both sides (just shearch for "capping") Mine are dead also

Do you have a mrs who has got fed up of being a Land rover widow and is secretly letting your tyres down? How do the valve stems look? Is there a bur on the valve hole or something that is damaging the tube and tubless valve stems? That is all I can think ofthat would effect such different setups