rawsondsr
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Everything posted by rawsondsr
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where should it connect? it still starts?
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belt was squeeling like a piggy, so replaced it with a new one. no more squeeling. however, there was some smoke coming off it, and pump was rather hot. not siezed, can turn by hand, clicks a bit if i turn it clockwise, not if anticlockwise. how hot should these get? there is not much assistance.
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I have a loose wire not connected at one end in my engine bay. it is a thick white wire with a red line down it, with a spade connector on the end, coming out of the bulkhead grommet. what is it?
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I need to replace a short section of pipe for the MOT. Its the solid pipe that goes from a t piece to the flixible pipe to the rear axle.by where the a frame attatches to the chassis. Its not clear from diagrams which section it is. What joints do i need? i guess it would be wise to replace the t piece too?
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what is there to go wrong inside the guage though, theres not a lot in it!
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Turned out to be a duff guage , £20 for a SH one and it's all good again
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OK thanks. If the gauge and low light use the same sender, why do they contradict? Gauge shows full, although I had it on normal for about 10 seconds with the binnacle out, and light flashes empty when I stopvsuddenly? Electrics are a pain!
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OK, so I've got my multimeter out and this is what happens. 3 wires on gauge, green, green black, black. Continuity test shows that Green to green black 254 Green to black 172 Green black to black 424 So all 3 are in contact with each other?
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so looks like the sender is ok then, and it's further up the line. failed guage? id imagine that would stay at empty though and not full?
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Just remembered the low fuel light did flash on for a second when i reversed down my driveway to park, are the two (light and guage) linked or do they use different switches
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i did have the dash binnacle out at around the same time it went to full, replacing a bulb, could it be a wire behind there?
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on my 84 one ten, the fuel guage has started reading full even though theres only 1/3 of a tank. why is this? how can i fix>?
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I'm only an hour away in Aylesbury so will probably try to make it there then
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This sunday, is this worth going to or is it a waste of time?
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went to town and had a couple of new keys made in about 30 seconds. cheap solution! didn't know the could do it from a broken key
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the key didnt break in the barrel, so thats ok. is it a hard/big job to swap the assembly?
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i've snapped my one and only key in half, so obviously need a new barrel/key. can you simply replace just the barrell or do you have to do the entire assrmbly?
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whats the best way? i tried from under, from top, under was more sucessful but just didnt have the room to turn the pipe? is the crossmember in a slightly differnrt place on 200tdis?
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hmm orderd a 200tdi defender downpipe, but theres no way in hell that it is going to fit unless i remove and replace the gearbox crossmember?? its about a foot and a half longer than the current broken item. is it possible that the downpipe is a TD one?
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i have also fitted the britpart cv kit. no problems in near 10k. i've had much worse things from britpart!
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its a defender engine, i cant see any modifications to the system itself. what is the bore on the tdi pipes? i may just replace all 3 pipes with standard tdi parts and adjust the hangers to suit.
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i need a new downpipe for my 200tdi 110. it has had a conversion from a 2.25p to a 200tdi. i replaced the rear box and pipe about a year ago, which was the 2.25p item. what item is the downpipe likely to be? looking at diagrams, the 200 pipe seems too long...
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my steering wheel is deteriorating, it is becoming sticky and makes my hands black when using it. it is the old 4 spoke style as fitted to early range rovers and one tens/ninetys. is there something i can do to fix this, leather re-covering or something?
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Keep that thermometer away from my Landrover
rawsondsr replied to disco_al's topic in International Forum
interesting!