sealt

Its probably the seal on the roof windows thats leaking

Many people says that their cars breaks down all the time nomatter what brand it is,seems to me that some people is borned to destroy cars.

Was the "wobbling" from front or rear axle? Slack in the swivel preload can be hard to with a normal check cause og weight of the wheel and hub. Jack it up and take off the wheel and steering rod(s) and swing the wheel at the arm,the resistance there should be atleast 1,5 kg.I usually set mine to 2-2,5kg Worn balljoints can also cause heavy wobbling,cause when they are worned you will get a "variable" track. Loose steering box can also cause problems. Bushes usually dont create heavy "wobbling" but makes vibration noises and clonk noises and makes the car wander on the road. You could also check the brakes,if a spring to the pads are broken the pads can touch the disc and cause many intresting things

Take a compressiontest it will tell you more about the condition of the engine

Havent replaced it myself but asume its the same as with the other oil seals on the driveline. Clean the area youre working on. Off with the propshaft and flange. Inspect the flange for wear. Out with the old one. In with the new one Put some grease on the new oilseal and flange and put it back Put some gasket sealent onto the flange to prevent leaks trough splines and on with the washer and tighten it up And mount the propshaft and done

Its easy to check. If you push the propshaft up and down then there shouldnt be any noticeable slack

Nice work. Im gonna start a similar project this winter with a 200TDi into a 109" and im gonna try to fit the 380 gearbox aswell as the axles and PAS unit

As long as it sits til i get it trough the MOT im happy with it,found the solution to fit/adjust pretty wiered compared to what im used to. Gonna have it on the MOT'ed 11/9 so i hope i have done good enough work on it

Thx i sent the series 1 club a mail and take it from there

Have you tried http://www.svendsen-eksos.no/ ?

A few years ago i bought an 80" restoration project The 80" is a RHD with UK reg.plates AHC 593.And according to the DVLA it was registered for the first time 25/11-1950 and the chassisnumber says its a 1951MY RHD basic vehicle. The guy i bought it from said it was imported to Norway sometime in the 1960's by an English ambasadeur for use at his summerplace. Noticed it was stamped a 4 digit number in front of the chassis number and the number is 5402,but i dont have a clue what the number means. Anyone able to help or know where i can find information about this vehicle?

Have you checked the splines in the propshaft? When they get worned the propshaft comes out of balance.

Do you mean the sills? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29915 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16704

Thx ill try fit them the way you did,i got to fixed on it should look like the old ones

Seems to me that the studs are to short compared to the old one,barely long enough for the plastic piece to fit as the picture above shows. When i measured the studs they seem to be about an inch longer on the old lamp. When i push it in so the treads go past the plastic piece the lamp is touching the metal behind it and lights up the treetops.Maybee the birds likes it but the MOT guy doesnt like it

Didnt work out eighter only extras that was included was some bits to automatic headlight adjustment that i dont have. Anyone know what to do?

Ordered a fitting kit STC 778 to se if that contains the required bits

It comes from frosen diesel.Its probably in your tank aswell. Sometimes when the "summer" diesel gets below 0 Celsius it turns into a yellowish gel that stays into that form even when you heat it up to 100 Celsius.Thats why its thinned out in the wintertime over here in Norway

He says that it smokes under load,but isnt it pretty normal that these motors smoke a bit under pressure?

Got wiered electrical error in my 200TDi aswell.When i had doors closed the interiorlights was glowing like it was like 7-8 volts and the summer that warns me if i leave the car with lighs on started,when i opened the doors the glowed less like the powere was reduced to half of that. In my case it was the fuse to the interiorlights that was blown an somewhere in the wiring it was a shared circuit that caused this odd behavior. So the theory about earth problem mentioned earlier i the topic seems like a possible cause to check in my opinion aswell

This is for a 1991 disco 200 TDI I got me a pair of new headlamps (STC767 and STC768) made by bearmach,and it was a plastic clip and an adjuster knob packed with it but to me it seems like the bolts are way to short or that i am missing some bits.The bolts are about the same length as the plastic clip. Here it is a pic that shows the old and new one. As you can see from the pic that the old lamp with the fixing on had plenty room for adjustments.But the BM lamp only got a few treads when i pushed the fixing to the bottom and on the pic i put the adjuster knob next to the bolt just to illustrate that its no way this can be right. Its the same thing on both lamps Anyone know if i got wrong bits or is it me that is doing everything wrong?

I had to modify the wiring cause they seemed to be to short for the resistor to fit were it was on the old one.And thr motor was to long so the "locing clips" didnt lock the motor in place so i added some glue to it so it would'nt move out of postion.

Did this job on my disco1 3 door and found out that it was alot easyer to use a 100x60 box,i used 100x60x6,3 mm since i had 6,3 thickness but makes it even more solid. Had a lot more rust on mine than the pics above,even the inner sill was more or less gone along with most of the floor,so i replaced the inner sill and used box for the outer one

The heater motor died on my Disco1 200TDi 1991 Dismantled the heater motor to find out that the bearing var broken.So i ordered a new one (RTC6693) from Paddocks but it doesnt look the same and the wiring with the resistor seems to be slightly different. The old one has a solid metal body and the resistor is fitted outside the heater unit while the new one as a loose metal cover that has a clip thingy that the resistor is fitted into for mounting onto the heater motor itself. Am i doing something wrong with this or is it the wrong part i have got?