JL45

Perfect. Thanks for the help. Cheers!

Thats what I figured. Best to do it proper and remove it. Can I make a foam gasket? I cant seem to find a part number and can only find the rubber gasket not the foam.

I sealed up some areas and re-tested with the hose and looking through the foot vent I can see it dripping from the heater rubber that bumps up against the bulkhead. So maybe it wasnt seated properly when I did a bulkhead swap a few years back. Only drips on heavy rain days which I simulated a deluge with the hose pointed at the lower part of the dash air vent. Plan is to unbolt and hopefully move it out of the way to get to the seal. Possible? Or am I looking at having to remove the entire thing? And how the heck did the water get back behind the heater with the bonnet closed and the bulkhead channel moving the water to the wings? Water finds a way I guess or maybe a spot I can seal up first.

So I think I've narrowed down a leak coming into the passenger footwell. There are a few areas I'm going to seal and retest but I think its coming in from behind the heater box. How difficult is it to remove? I see a couple of bolts at the bottom but any hidden ones I should look out for? Once off, I assume some commercial closed cell foam will do the trick? Maybe some silicone to be extra safe. Thanks. '92 200TDI Defender 110

I got hold of a voltmeter and determined no juice coming into the gauges but the fuse that runs the gauges/lights is good as the signal/brake lights work fine. Could there be another fuse I'm missing or maybe I blew a relay?

I did blow the fuse #5 which runs wipers, gauges and lights (minus headlights) which I swapped out and the lights worked again but the gauges still dont. Is there an additional fuse that I could be missing? Like I said the wires I tapped into were not being used but I suppose that could be the issue regardless. I used a purple for the 12v permanent but the other purple and green wires that were part of the connector I taped off. And I used a spare red/white I had for the radio ignition.

Hello all, I have a '92 110 200tdi and recently Installed a radio but noticed my temp/fuel gauge no longer worked nor did my side/indicator/tail lights. Replaced the fuse and the lights are back but the gauges still show no life. Was thinking I might have disconnected something when pulling speaker wire but didnt see any loose connections on either instrument. I did cut some wires to connect to the radio harness but those were never connected to anything, other than maybe the old radio which is long gone. The wire colors were purple and green. These were connected to a bullet connector (like the attached photo) but were not being used, just "extra" wiring where the radio used to be. I just cut off the connector and used one purple for the 12v the others I taped off and used an extra red/white for the ignition connection. Could that be the issue or maybe a bad ground connection? I've since disconnected the radio but still have the same issue. Thanks in advance.

Looks really nice. I'm running standard LR wheels so this is a significant upgrade.

Thanks for the info. Would I need spacers or extended arches? From what I've been reading most 265 tires just fit.

All, looking to purchase a set of wheels and tires but curious about some details. They are 31 x 10.5 R15. What does this equal to, 265's? Also is there any issues putting them on a '92 Defender 110 200tdi? Thanks in advance.

That's what I figured. These are way more than snug and the one that's loose seems to be to much. Thanks for the reply, looks like a return is in order.

Just got my set of new TD5 doors hinges and they're so stiff it takes significant effort to move them. Not normal? One is very loose which I would assume that's how they all should be.

Spot on diagnosis Old Hand. The white part connection had popped out causing the issue. Looks as though the clips holding it in where not bent so popped it back in and bent the clips so it holds. Though I would assume that I should probably change it out for a new one?

Cool. Good starting point, thanks.

Unfortunately wasn't able to to much other than what I did above plus check some fuses. The shop just does cleanings and they were closing but stored the vehicle in their garage until I can get a look tomorrow or towed. Would an ignition switch all of a sudden carp out? I've never had issues with it starting.

So I think a bad earth connection might be my issue but thought I would ask the well of knowledge to be sure. Had my Defender 200tdi in for a thorough chassis and engine wash. They got it off the rack and parked it to dry but now it wont start. All the lights work, horn, wipers but I get no lights on the dash and it wont turn over. Not even a cough. Connected cables from the battery to the engine block/chassis but nothing either. Wiggling the earth wire to the starter doesn't help either. Is it possible with a high pressure wash it knocked the earth off the starter or removed enough corrosion that was keeping it grounded? I haven't checked yet to see if it has additional earth connections and from what Ive been reading is an ideal plan if doesnt. Will additional earth connections override a loose or corroded one or am I looking specifically to fix the earth to starter connection if that is indeed the issue? Or could it all of sudden be a dead starter? Thanks.

Perfect. Thanks all for the tips and advice. Its been a busy few weeks so just now getting to the bulkhead but ready to make some progress.

Looking at my original post I see I didn't mention this is a brand new bulkhead. The previous owner never had it fitted or modified (which I have for my 200tdi) and had only painted it...horribly I might add. So that's what I had blasted off. Not sure if that makes a difference or not in regards to prep in reference to cleaning it prior to priming.

Past the 4 hours for sure but its stored inside away for the elements which helps. I'm looking at a variety of products that clean the surface of dust, grease, etc but like I said just seems dusty so maybe some wipes like Gazzar metioned. I plan on priming it with Rustoleum auto paint or something similar then painting it to match. Looking at companies Paint Man and Paint My Classic that match the color though not sure if they're zink laden or not. I'll check Buzzweld.

Just got my bulkhead sand blasted and am ready to seam seal, prime and paint. Should I give it a good clean, maybe with some type of metal prep cleaner? Seems just a bit dusty but other than that looks good. Thanks.

Sorry for not replying sooner, was on holiday. Its fixed! Apparently I had a bad ground connection. Once i dropped the bracket in some vinegar and scrubbed up the mounting area it worked like a charm! Thanks everyone for the help. As stephendavies said...happy tooting!

Welp, that didn't work. New horn works (tested it on the battery) but wont work when connected and grounded. Tested the voltage of the connector and its only putting out 6-9V. I cant find anything so far that says what voltage the original horn is, apparently not 12V. Or could it be a relay that's gone bad or just not pumping out enough voltage? Interior and fog light work as does the original horn so I'm at a loss.

Sounds easy enough. I should have some connectors and wire lying about. I assume 12v wire will suffice?

Thanks for the quick reply. I had only planned to replace the low note not add a second horn. I assume it will work the same as what you've mentioned, one terminal connected to the power the other connected to the mounting bolt for earth? Heck, should I add a second horn? Seems to be what most have done.

Want to install a low note horn on my '92 110 but the current one only has one connector where as the low notes all have two. Do I need to run an additional wire or get some type of adapter? I saw somewhere it was mentioned that one of the connectors needs to be a ground? Thanks.