Mudzilla

Cheers for the replies... Yes it is using fluid, I'll take a look at the tech archive now. Thanks again, i appreciate it.

Hi all, Please be patient as I am learning the ways of the Land rover - and it's a very steep learning curve! I have a leak from the brakes of my 1989 110 Defender. I am looking to get this sorted myself but would appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction as I'm a novice when it comes to this. I've attached a picture so you can see what I'm talking about: Thanks in advance!

Ok, that would normally work, but say i slide my foot across the brake, applying constant pressure, until my foot drops off the brake pedal onto the accelerator pedal. I would now only have my foot on the accelerator pedal, waiting for the car to engage a gear. I would still be rolling backwards until a gear is engaged. Would this happen in yours? Btw im not trying to sound sarcastic. Its the only way i can think to put it.

Thanks for that. I know the 'driving school' way is to use the handbrake and i also know (from driving many automatics in the past) the experienced way is to quickly switch pedals. In my situation though, when i take my foot off the brake on to the accelerator, the car immediately starts to move backwards as if it's in neutral and, because it's in neutral, takes a second or so to engage gear, meaning I have just driven in to the car behind me. It doesnt happen everytime. Even on the same incline (a slight incline at that!) the car behaves differently each time. Thanks for your reply though.

Hi BogMonster, If on an incline, does yours hold you? If yours is the same, then when you take your foot off the brake it would roll backwards? Do you just accommodate for this i.e. handbrake? Thanks.

Hi, I afraid I dont have any answers to your questions, but i am experiencing similar issues. I've had my Disco TD5 Auto for approx 3 months. I've been 'testing' various scenarios and have mixed results. When on a slight incline, sometimes the car will hold itself, sometimes it will just roll back as if it's in neutral and another occasion it began to hold and then all of a sudden let go and i started rolling backwards! I have also noticed more often than not that when coming back on to the accelrator after going around a corner, it's as if it's in neutral and takes around a second or so to engage a gear. Highly frustrating! Everyone I have spoken to who have owned/driven an auto (allbeit not a Discovery) say all they did was just sit on the brake and then quickly switch to the accelerator. I cant seem to do this though because if its not in gear i will roll back, enough to squash the car behind me! I guess im looking for similar sort of answers. Is this normal behaviour for a Auto Discovery TD5? I dont seem to have any occurence of issue 1 you mention though. Cheers, Rich

Hi, Anyone know if the discovery 3 wheels will fit on a discovery 2? Im referring to the 19" wheel you can get for the disco 3. I have found that the PCD are the same (5 x 120) but the offset may be slightly different so i would need to get an adapter ring (?). Thanks

Hi, Bought a 99 Disco 2 about a week ago, and am loving it. A few niggles, with the most recent being the air suspension has dropped completely. I came out of work and it looked like (it was dark) it was sitting on its bump stops. During my 10 min journey home the rear did not re-inflate at all, and when i press the 'offroad' button it 'bongs' at me and the light on the dash goes out straight away. Any ideas on this? Im guessing its either the compressor or the compressor AND the bags as all the other posts on here say that the suspension inflated while driving. Also, is it ok to drive it while its 'deflated'. I dont want to do any damage to anything. Ive read that if its the air bags that have got a leak, you shouldnt drive it for too long without replacing them as the compressor will be working over-time. But, seeing as the rear isnt going back up, my logic says that the compressor probably isnt working? Who knows? Thanks for your help, Rich

Thanks mate, your'e a wealth of knowledge!

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the door cards with and without electric windows are the same width (i.e. stick out the same amount from the door)? Thanks

Wow, such a quick response! Thanks for that. I was lookng at the new doors earlier and the 'striker plate' that i have fitted on the door frame has 2 large bits of metal above and below the 'pin' on the striker plate which stops the new doors from closing. I was looking at replacing the striker but not sure what to replace it with? Ive seen this: eBay , but on John Craddocks it say it's for 84-87 models. Mine is 92, but its looks like this the right one with the 'ledge' that the pin sits on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im not sure if it makes any difference but mine is an ex-mod model, so i dont know if any bits are different? Thanks

Hi, I have just bought 2 front doors from a late TD5 to go on my 1992 Defender 90. I believe the doors have electric windows and central locking. Can anyone give some advise on the wiring for these? There are 2 plugs on each door. Also, ive read somewhere about the door hinges have a special type of nut, called a 'J Nut' i think? Whats the best way to get at these so i can reuse them, or where can i buy these? Thanks!

Hi there. Im a newbie as far as Land Rovers go. Ive just bought my first, a Defender 90 ex-mod with 2.5D normally aspirated engine. It really is a great truck! My previous 4x4 was a Daihatsu Fourtrak 2.8TD. That has just failed the MOT on pretty much everything BUT the engine... Im tempted to put the Fourtrak engine into the Defender. My questions: 1. Is it worth it? Ill be using it for offroading, and i want to best combination possible. 2. How difficult is it to put the Fourtrak engine in? 3. I have seen one company who provide the conversion kit, Conversion and Precision. Is there anyone else? If you have any other info about this, please let me know Thanks