Crankin

I wonder if that is more or a north american standard. Over here a good majority had headliners in them... Just to clarify this is what I meant by "bows"

I have contacted Badger Coach Works, here in the states, a few months ago about a set of bows for the front section...but he is unsure if he has any... So, I am thinking that I will try to make some on my own. Does anyone have a picture of the bows for the front section of the headliner?

Body Reassemble I am about 65% finished with the reinstall of the body and wondering if there are certain phases in which one should install the panels. So, far here is the steps I have taken… 1. Bulkhead 2. Rear tub 3. From here I attached all the floor rails that bridge the gap between the rear tub and bulkhead. 4. Seatbox Sound right? Now the problems… when do I start to tighten everything up and make sure things are lined up correctly? For example, do I first start to tighten the bolt running into the out rigger? Then tighten the two bolts on the bulkhead footer? Then tighten the running board to the rear tub, etc.... I am looking at things and seeing that there is about an inch vertical gap between my passenger floor and the bulkheads footwell top outside corner. I am hoping that as I adjust things that this gap will shrink. However, there are some things weighing up against me…one, is that I had the bulkhead galvanized, two, I had the footwells replaced and welded back in…and the last thing, the floor boards are new replacement ones. I am wondering if I will just have to live with this gap and explain it to people as a draining system....or it could be that I do not fully understand what bolts adjust what part of the bulkhead,floor rails, etc... Can someone shed some light on this?

Does anyone have any pics of the harness ran through the frame before the panels are put back on? I am trying this and finding myself scratching my head on how the main harness runs through the engine bay and how the rear harness looks. I have looked through the workshop manuals...but they do not really show any detail of the finish product.

Todd...you're my new best friend. Thanks!

My previous owner must've destroyed the cover that allows the cables to pass through the bulk head (AMR3098). I checked with a company here in the states and they are available through special order from a source in Britain....However, I think that I am going to make one out of some spare aluminum, cut in some holes, and stick in some grommets… But since I don’t have one…can someone help me out with some measurements for A-E? Thank you so much.

So, i am sending all my body panels to the painter today. And have been toying with the idea of swapping out all my bulbs in the turn signals, flashers, back up lights, etc...over to LEDs. I know that I need a relay on the flashers to keep them from fast blinking. Other then that...has anyone switched all there bulbs out with LEDs? But my main question is this: Since i purchased this truck from someone else, I have never had to replace any bulbs and do not know what the sizes are. To turn signals were missing bulbs and some of the dash lights were gone, too. What size bulbs do I need for everything? I know this is a tall order...but it sure would help me out if someone knew the count and size for every bulb that the SIII had on it. I know the export version of the SIII is a little different because over here in the states we had the 4" amber for turn signals on the front and back. But everything else is the same. Thanks guys.

If you have enough time and money on your hands to experiment...you might try to wipe it down with a paint thinner or acetone as soon as you spray or roll the paint on. The paint thinner might attack/fade some of the coating before it dries. Sand spots of the finish with a fine grit sandpaper....and then try washing it regularly (once or twice a week) with a strong laundry detergent, which will begin to fade/eat away at the paint faster then normal. It will take about a year to really get a faded contrast. But hey, a year is not that bad considering that allowing mother nature to do the same effect would take at least 15-20 years.

When patching holes... I usually tape the outward area, spray some liquid butter on the tape...because the fiber glass and resin will not stick to the liquid butter. Then fiberglass the inside...allowing the fiberglass to cave down a little. Remove the tape from the outside and bondo over. Sand both sides smooth.

Thanks, They are all out. They told me that they can make one from a mold they have (which I question) for $150 a piece. A little pricey for me...

Has anyone came across the Lucas 4" Flasher lamps? The lens is L833 and the Lucas part number is NS/54579811. I am having the toughest time finding them. Thanks for any help. -Clint Here is what they look like.

Mark... Here you go... Parts Catalogue

Mark, Try this: Land Rover Manuals

Mark, Try this: Land Rover Manuals