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gilloverland

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Everything posted by gilloverland

  1. If ACE has been deleted make sure the pump has been replaced with the idler pulley or you can risk a fire. If not then it can be leak from the pipes when the system tries to work so your not forced to see a puddle at home on the drive. Pull the relay and fuse to prevent this.
  2. I've just done this, this week. I got the downpipe from a guy who makes them and sells on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/defender-90-110-exhaust-conversion-for-discovery-200tdi/324037686441?hash=item4b7226b4a9:g:BysAAOSwH3hZ77gw So far so good, It fitted very well and cured my rumbly noise (old down pipe touching footwell when engine under load).
  3. Plenty to choose from on Alibaba, direct from the factory - just make sure its a trusted seller and pay by paypal or credit card to be safe.
  4. depending upon the year, the D2 transfer box may not have a diff lock.
  5. Yep it was! - I thought about machining the hub by a couple of mm to make clearance but if a wheel bearing ever failed the hub could hit the caliper and that could be disastrous! Luckily this was spotted after only the nearside was done so used new like for like parts instead.
  6. This is correct, Ive just tried it on my 1986 110 and the hub fouls the caliper
  7. Just to add that the vented discs and calipers upgrade doesnt fit early 110s - mine is ex military on a C reg and when I tried this the calipers foul on the hubs where the wheel studs go. Even if you ground a bit off, in the event of a wheel bearing failure the hub would hit the caliper with disasterous consequences. I just thought id update this thread as its one of the first on google search.
  8. Bearmach have a new range of gas shocks which come with a 3 year guarantee. They look very well made (possibly re-badges Monroe's who also happen to make OME shocks). I can't tell you what they ride like yet though - fitting them is next week's job.The Bearmach blue springs are also pretty good but to get a comfortable ride you need to be carrying weight as the spring rates are quite high. For springs have you considered genuine HD? A lift kit in itself doesn't guarantee better load carrying capacity, for that you need details such as the spring rates and free lengths. I would avoid Terrafirma, I had one of their lift kits on my old D2, the springs sagged within 6 months and the powder coating is really poor. The shocks seemed ok though.
  9. Lovely job and fantastic write-up. Are you gonna use a running-in oil?
  10. Oil was changed about 10000 miles ago. Its an ashcroft HDTC thats just over a year old...
  11. Unfortunatly I haven't had chance to, Im just going on the fact that there are no leaks...
  12. thought I would list the sympoms here and to see if anyone recognised them... First thing I noticed last Thursday was a tiny bit of a judder when parking at low speed but then it went away and didn't come back (or at least I didn't notice it). Then Friday afternoon whilst driving along I stopped at a set of traffic lights and when starting again it took a lot of rev's (like clutch slip on a manual) As it got rolling it seemed to changed up a couple of gears and I managed to turn around and get home (it was only half a mile). At idle there is a noticeable 'chatter' from the transmission area. I've had a good look underneath (though haven't had time to remove the inspection plate) and there is no evidence of a fluid leak. This morning I started it up and tried it in D and R (transmission cold) and it wanted to move off in either direction at tick over, it would not do this on Friday after the initial failure. Has anyone experienced this before, at first I thought it was either a fluid leak or a clutch pack gone but the fact that it wants to move off when cold (along with the rattle / chatter) has got me thinking its a broken flex plate which when cold is somehow giving more drive? I think I have sourced a second hand gearbox but I because of my shifts I am unable to collect it until after xmas. Ashcrofts said they couldn't supply one until after the 9th of January! Any ideas?
  13. I'm thinking about fitting an electric winch to my td5 discovery. Is there any issues to be aware of with the td5's engine management whilst a winch is drawing such huge currents? I would like to hear your experiences, good or bad...
  14. Never heard of moving the rams, as I understand it you use D2 front droplinks on the back and then D3 droplinks on the front (all of which are longer than standard) so as not to destroy the droplinks.
  15. There is no flasher unit on a TD5 discovery, the flash is controlled by a micro chip within the BCU.
  16. I doubt it will be the ECU if it has worked after the wading, especially for 70 miles as this is more than enough time for it to 'dry out' Inside the metal box the electricals are coated with some sort of varnish. All the ones I have seen that have died during wading have serious damage to the capacitors that fire the injectors. I would suggest the most likely candidate is the crank position sensor or it's conector. I'm not sure how to test one and they aren't cheap (though cheaper than an ECU). You need to find someone local to you who has a nanocom. Have a look on the D2boysclub forum...
  17. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WARN-M8274-WINCH-12V-OFF-ROAD-4X4-FUN-NEW-IN-BOX-/280917077144?pt=UK_Recovery_Tools&hash=item4167f66c98
  18. Simple answer is the sump because you want to know the bulk temp of the oil.
  19. Or - The other way to do this would be to remove the ACE pump and see if a ZF74 could be mounted in its place with a pully to suit. Having never looked closely at an ACE pump or its mountings I don't know if it would be feasable?
  20. Regarding the ace pump: Workshop manual, Disco 2, Front Suspension, Description & Operation, Description - ACE, Page 60 - 13, or 1012 of 1783. "The fluid flow varies with the engine speed and the rotational speed of the central shaft. The pressure felt at the actuator, created by the flow from the pump, is controlled by the pressure control valve in the valve block. The pump has a displacement of 8.5 cm 3 /rev and an operational pressure of 135 bar (1958 lbf.in 2 ). The pump output flow ranges from 7.0 l/min (1.85 US Gallons/min) at 775 rev/min to 9.25 l/min (2.44 US Gallons/min) at 7625 rev/min." So I reckon that although it would be slow, it would work - My theory being that the pulling power of the winch is determined by the pressure of the fluid, which the ACE pump gives more than enough. But the linespeed of that pull would be slow because the flow rate isn't high enough (linespeed being determinned by flow rate, hence the PTO pumps used in the MM type R winch on the first four website). Hopefully someone who knows more about fluid mechanics will come along and correct me if Im wrong... _________________
  21. I saw this recently too. I hav'nt filled up again yet so I am unable to comment on MPG but the TD5 is much quieter and seems to pull better with 200ml of 2-stroke to a full tank. The cheapest place I'v found for it so far is Morrisons petrol station, £2.49 for 500ml.
  22. Now this is an interesting question. I had a milemarker winch on my 110 which ran off a zf74 power steering pump. Whilst not up to winch challenges it was more than enough for recovering at pay and play sites or greenlaning. I now have a D2 and when I eventually kit it out I would much prefer the MM winch over any electric winch. As mentioned above, its the flow rate and pressure which counts and I'll look into it. I'd be interested if you find anything out before I do...
  23. If your buying it from Doncaster make sure you know where to look for the chassis numbers and vin plates etc ! That area seems to have more than its fair-share of suspicious looking motors...
  24. It has 16" rims - what is the biggest size that will fit without cutting wings etc?
  25. Thanks for all the replies. I took it on the 'stake road' in the Yorkshire dales on Sunday, the first climb is a bit rocky but I'm very impressed. The traction control worked wonders as it was wet and slippery. I think it is very capable but some of the lanes I like (stanage edge for example) are very rocky. Also I believe that recovery points are a must for any proper off roader. That bumper looks gorgeous - does anyone know how much they are? And is it the same as sold by extreme 4x4? I'm thinking now along the lines of that bumper (above), a couple of diff guards from QT, rock/tree sliders and a snorkel - Has anyone fitted one of those £100 safari copies - Are they any good or should I get the genuine thing?
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