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Yolandi

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Yolandi last won the day on February 29 2016

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About Yolandi

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    cardiff (or out of fuel somwhere)

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  1. just picked up a 200tdi 90 for my brother yesterday and the headlights don't work, all over light including high beams do, fuses are good, stalk switch is good, no power at the fuse connections however, disconnected the dim dip thingy (new type, black box with cooling fins) and no change, what can I try next?
  2. so iv had an oil pressure gauge fitted for a while now but what it reads concerns me slightly on a normal day on first morning start up itll read anywhere from 45 to 60psi, on a very cold morning itll be up in the 90s or sometimes if its below freezing itll be over 100psi (the end of the gauge scale) once the engine is good and fully warmed (usually settles at 70C) itll hang around less than 20psi on tickover, possibly as low as 10 (the markings become very close together at low psi so i cant tell for sure, also lower than 20psi is in the red area of the gauge) is something amiss here when it fully warmed or is it normal for a 200tdi to be this low pressured? also im using 10W-40 for reference
  3. sorry for the slow reply its a 110 hard top so from front to back, two front seats, bulkhead then two inwards facing bench seats (noone will be useing these while off roading), as for driving style, its not fast, little faster than crawling tho , its not so much for impact more the sudden drops and bangs and like when you slip into a rut, you do get thrown around alot and the standard inertia belts dont often lock in these conditions, i kinda just want something that would hold me tighter to the seat i guess
  4. so my other half absolutely wont come off roading with me unless i do something to improve the saftey of the two front seats, originally she wanted a full external roll cage but i could never afford a proper chassis fixed one, eventually we settled on some 3 or 4 point harnesses. Anyway looking into the guidelines around fixing them and such and originally i was wondering about mounting the shoulder straps to the bulkhead behind the seats but i dont think itll be in the less than 45 degrees range, what else could i attach them to? could i have a tube with mounts either end to bolt across behind the seats at the desired height? side note: yes i know theyre highly restrictive and a PITA when used with normal day to day driving so im keeping the original belts fitted as well for that
  5. went at the dash grounds again, snipped off the ring terminals and crimped on new ones, really shined up the area around the bulkhead with some sandpaper and used a shiney new set screw (mostly because i lost the original one) electrics work brilliantly now! with everything on it hang around the 12v mark and is about 13.5v at idle, the highest iv ever seen on that gauge lol however now one of my brake lights has gone out but that a different day
  6. scratched up the paint and rust on the dash ground and didnt make a difference, not sure if my bulkhead is actually got a ground strap to the chassis also some other forums seem to say having a ground lead from one of the mounting bolts of the alt to the chassis helps alot so will probably look into doing something like that soon
  7. ok, iv got alot of unused wires with lucas bullet connectors behind the dash from a past life so i connected the volt meter to a switched live i found there not connected to anything if that makes a difference, where would i find the dash earth?
  8. just went out, battery was on 12.5v, started the engine, jumped to 13.9 then steadily rose to over 14v, alt was 14.7 on the batt output, volt meter on the dash was 12v not running then didnt move from 13v when running
  9. when i got my defender i fitted a volt gauge to the dash blank because i thought it would be more useful than the clock that wasnt present, on motorways with no auzillarys on its usually around 13v, 12v on tickover, however when i start turning things on, lights, wiper, heater etc. (also as you turn the radio up) the volts drop to where everythings on about 10v, at this level the radio cuts out regularly unless its turned down to near silent. the other week i had some welding done on the exhaust the the battery wasnt disconnected while that was being done (silly i know) but it seemed to help the alternator, afterwards when i turned on say the heater, the volts would drop to 11 then quickly rise again back to 12, turning more things on as an experiment vided the same results until i had the lights, aux lights, light bar, heater, wipers (front and back) hazard lights brake and fog light on and the volts stuck at 12 the whole time, great i thought the jolt from the welder has "fixed" my alternator, this continued for about a day and a half and now is back to dropping volts but not coming back up can anyone shed light on why this is happening and what i could do to solve it? 200tdi 110 defender 1991 45amp marelli alternaor (as far as im aware)
  10. Been looking into swapping the standard alternator for a 100amp in my 200tdi defender (high turbo) but i cant find any with the same bolt pattern, everyone says the 300tdi ones are a straight swap but the bolt holes are the wrong way round, looking at the front of the enginr i need one with 2 in line holes low down (about 5 o clock position on the alt) and one hole about the 10 oclock position for the adjuster does anyone know what to get?
  11. Hi all, changed the t box rear prop bolts today as the old ones were amazingly damaged, anyway i recently had the assosiated pinion seal replaced there and when i took the flange off (behind the brake drum) it quickly started leaking oil until i replaced the flange and tightened it down, iv got a slow leak from this area anyway but am wondering if having oil pour out when you remove the flange is normal?
  12. I wasnt planning to put it back together again i was just curious to see the insides, this one has failed pretty badly, it looks from the outside that the metal insert that holds the bearings and seals has slowly drifted out (forward of engine) bringing the impeller closer and closer to the inside of the cast body until it started to grind the casting away with the impeller,
  13. My britpart (i know i also dont know why i bought it) water pump has failed, iv swapped it out for a bearmach one so hopefully shouls be good for a while now but i was wondering if theres away to dissasseble the pump? As in get the impeller off? Im just curious about seeing how its failed internaly, it looks like the steel insert that holds the bearings/seals etc has worked its way out the front of the cast body
  14. afternoon guys, just a quick one, the other night after many a bodging on my mates Russian jeep we were talking about brakes on defenders anyway does anyone know if they are copper (or copper/nickel) or just painted steel?
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