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Cchase

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Cchase last won the day on June 3

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About Cchase

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    Nova Scotia, Canada

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  1. Power Steering for a 2.5na

    I know that I am breathing life into an old thread, but I'm confused as to which PAS box to use on a LHD 2.5 NA diesel. I have figured out the pump bracket and front plate, and have identified NTC9070 as the correct pump. I am looking for the pump, steering box, reservoir. pipes, and anything else that I need. I think that it is a NTC9070 pump, ERR2605 plate for the bracket. Any information on parts numbers would be appreciated. Can I use the drop arm on the manual box? The engine is a 12J 2.5 NA diesel in a 1995 exMOD Defender, LHD. I have posted an ad in the wanted section also, but am not sure exactly all that I need. Thanks, Colin
  2. Damaged tyre

    I would be quite upset with this. Hind sight is 20/20, but for this reason I have my winters on their own set of rims for my daily driver. Good luck, Colin
  3. Third Brake Light

    My vehicle came with a non working, non fixable, third brake light. I like the idea of being seen from behind (and had holes to fill in any case) so purchased the following off eBay. The light is quite visible directly from behind. The third photo is all of the rear lights on. The truck is ex MOD and came with two rear fog lights. The work lights are also LED. Cheers, Colin
  4. Water inside LED Indicators

    Oh my! Style points for originality:) Thanks forthe photos. Cheers Colin
  5. Valve cover oil leak

    Thanks, Deep. The issue is getting better with use. Were your catch cans vented to the outside or did you route them back to the inlet manifold? C
  6. Valve cover oil leak

    Thanks, Western. Those are Aluminum 'sealing washers'. I'll try resealing under the nuts and re route the crankcase gasses to a vented catch can. Cheers, Colin
  7. Valve cover oil leak

    No replies/opinions/answers...This is a surprise from this forum! Thanks for reading. Colin
  8. Water inside LED Indicators

    Doug, This is intriguing. Pictures of the exhaust, please. Thanks, Colin
  9. The newly rebuilt engine has been leaking too much oil, even for a Land Rover : ). The engine is a 12J from an ex MOD Defender. I thought that it might be the rear crankshaft seal. I cleaned off the engine and disconnected the crankcase ventilation hose from the oil filler cap. I let the engine warm up and tightened up the three nuts holding the valve cover, using copper or Al crush washers. After ~20 minutes of idling, no leaks! I reattached the hoses and went for a 10 minute drive and was met with the leakage pictured on return. I checked the hoses and there are no blockages and the cyclone breather was ok when I put it back on the engine after the rebuild. Could the round valve (err1468) that sits above the cyclone breather be too stiff to open sufficiently to let air go to the inlet manifold? It does open now. (I have attached a pdf of the system on my engine - the link is above the photo) Would it be better/a solution to run the hose from the oil filler cap to a catch can, and from there to the air intake, bypassing the cyclone breather? Do the ERR1468 valves fail? Maybe I could substitute in this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-2-5-N-A-Cyclone-Engine-Oil-Breather-/201949618819?hash=item2f0522a283:m:msAZCYkL5CuSA8CNZ_4J-qg Are these stud holes a common oil leak spot? maybe rubber o rings to further keep the oil inside? Does the crankcase pressure subside as the engine wears in? I thank the collective wisdom of this site and look forward to your advice!! Cheers, Colin Crank Case ventilation 2.5na.pdf
  10. Water inside LED Indicators

    Doug, Your headlamps look great...but your bonnet is missing! I used the H4 LED replacement bulbs to keep the 'original look' for the headlights and purchased the LED replacements light units from Bolt on Bits for the rest of the lights (turn signals, driving, brakes) as the old units were corroded and needing replacement. I like to be seen when I am driving on the street and the original units are a bit small and dim (if you want to attract the attention of the distracted 'texting teens'!) I am even going to attached a raised third brake light for above the rear door. Cheers, Colin
  11. Valve cover oil leak

    The newly rebuilt engine has been leaking too much oil, even for a Land Rover : ). I thought that it might be the rear crankshaft seal. I cleaned off the engine and disconnected the crankcase ventilation hose from the oil filler cap. I let the engine warm up and tightened up the three nuts holding the valve cover, using copper or Al crush washers. After ~20 minutes of idling, no leaks! I reattached the hoses and went for a 10 minute drive and was met with the leakage pictured on return. I checked the hoses and there are no blockages and the cyclone breather was ok when I put it back on the engine after the rebuild. Could the round valve (err1468) that sits above the cyclone breather be too stiff to open sufficiently to let air go to the inlet manifold? It does open now. (I have attached a pdf of the system on my engine - the link is below the photo) Would it be better/a solution to run the hose from the oil filler cap to a catch can, and from there to the air intake, bypassing the cyclone breather? Do the ERR1468 valves fail? Maybe I could substitute in this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-2-5-N-A-Cyclone-Engine-Oil-Breather-/201949618819?hash=item2f0522a283:m:msAZCYkL5CuSA8CNZ_4J-qg Are these stud holes a common oil leak spot? maybe rubber o rings to further keep the oil inside? Does the crankcase pressure subside as the engine wears in? I thank the collective wisdom of this site and look forward to your advice!! Cheers, Colin Crank Case ventilation 2.5na.pdf
  12. Traveling in a 110

    Interesting conversion! It looks very comfortable. C
  13. Another which propshaft (110 this time)

    Reb78, Are your yokes in good shape? I took my propshafts to a truck repair shop and had mine rebuilt (new shaft, reused yokes and balanced) for much less than a replacement unit, especially if you add in the cost of shipping. Good luck, Colin
  14. 110 chassis dimensions

    This cross member looks the same as the one on my '95 110. Mine is a bit dented, especially at the open, bottom edge. Possibly this was left open for drainage. In the picture below you can see the way that the front frame rails are tilted to keep water from pooling on the bumper... My truck also tracks true so your frame may well be within 'tolerances'. Cheers, Colin
  15. D2, wheel arch surround spruceup

    Do you have any before and after photos? Cheers, Colin
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