Cchase
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Posts posted by Cchase
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I posted a follow up to this in the Fabrication section.
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I realize that this is old hat to many of you, but I am a visual learner; I learn better from seeing something than from reading about it.
As I rebuild the front axles on The Tramp I investigated how the Railko bush at the top of the swivel gets oil.
Perhaps I am overthinking the issue, but relying on oil splashing upwards through a small hole seems to be a bit of a stretch.
The Tramp also has locking hubs so I want to make sure that I know that the bushing is getting lubrication. Some people use grease/zerk fittings.
While watching one of Steamwally's excellent You Tube videos, he talked about using an oil cup cap to keep the bush wet. I was able to find the fittings on amazon and a local machine shop drilled and threaded an M10 hole with a 3/32 extension to a depth of 42mm from the top of the pin and then a lateral exit to the side.
Here are some photos to illustrate what was done.
Cheers,
C
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And...
Does anyone use these?
M10 M14 M16 Metric Male Thread Brass Grease Oil Cup Lubrication Oiler For Machine Tool - (Thread Specification: M10x1-3ml) Brand: Tomeco
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Good afternoon,
At risk of overthinking a problem, I have seen/read about people drilling into the upper swivel assembly (and then at 90`) and adding a grease nipple, to enable lubing of the Railko bushing.
Is this common?
Secondly, If the spinning of the U-joint is supposed to splash oil into the hole on the bushing to provide lube, then why not slightly enlarge the hole in the bottom of the bushing and thrust washer?
Obviously not so big a hole so as to weaken the bushing, but maybe to 1/4" or so.
Waiting for parts allows the mind to wander...
Thanks.
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Hey Folks,
I have a 5 bearing 2.25 gas engine in my Series 3 109". This is the carb that is on it. It has no branding so is probably an after market unit. What sort of carb is it? Apologies for the choke cable being in the photos.
Thanks,
Coln
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The 'Green Bible' does not say to renew the flywheel bolts for a five main 2.25L engine, but I have seen it stated in forums.
Is this necessary, or can the old bolts be used with the appropriate thread lock?
Thanks,
C
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I have the front of my 109" apart for suspension/swivel refurbishment and disc brake kit addition and I am into the 'might as well since I am in there' stuff.
The two ball joints on the steering from the steering box to the relay are a bit notchy so need replacing. Is there room to fit ball joints with grease fittings or will the nipples get in the way. (Insert naughty comment here if you need to!)
Thanks,
Colin
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16 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Yep, been there. As I say, hand reamer.
doesn't that thin the wall of the piece in the frame?
C
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...Except maybe installing the new ones.
Any tips?
I have been using a long bolt with washers, but keeping the bushing square is the issue.
C
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Is there a job more hateful than removing the old chassis bushes?
C
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I'd keep them. They aren't expensive.
22 pounds each on John Craddock! Mone are rebuildable. Just need the tabs refreshed.
Cheers,
Colin
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Front dumb iron and shackle from rear of front spring.
So I guess I could go shorter shackle on the back and upper hole on the front if I wanted to delete the spacers.
Would that be a step backward?
Thanks.
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These spacers are on my series 3 109" frame to hold the bump stops.
Are they a specific item for military frames or a regular item on 109 frames?
Are they necessary if they are not on regular 109 frames?
Thanks,
Colin
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Sooo...
The front dampers were damaged in the accident, and were the Pro Comp units that Rocky Mountain sold with their parabolic springs. I need to get something before I can drive the vehicle.
I have been in touch with RM and these dampers are no longer available. Summit Racing accepted the part number, but has none in stock
and in any case RM said that these are now made in Mexico and the quality had become suspect.
What do you recommend for a suitable damper for the truck at least for the front? I used the term 'One Ton' as it was a choice in the Paddock or John Craddock site.
Thanks
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
Have a look at the list of different OE leaf springs on Jones Springs here in UK , all the different types are listed and if you have queries they are very knowledgeable
Check the bushes and U bolts on your set up for wear
Steve
Yes, bushes will be replaced, as well as U bolts. The truck was in an accident - no brakes down a steep hill - before it came to me so I have yet to drive it.
C
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4 hours ago, Snagger said:
The “waftiness” will be from bad dampers, not the springs. Given your location, it’s a fair bet you have Rocky Mountain springs, which are a good brand. Decent parabolics are better in almost every way than semi-elliptical springs, not rusting together, being more resistant to breaking leafs, having far better articulation off road and absorption of bumps on the road. A little clean up and repaint would almost certainly be more beneficial with an replacement with old style springs unless you are looking for a completely original spec vehicle for classic status rather than practicality.
As for the dampers, avoid Pro Comp. They are usually sold with parabolics as a kit but are woefully poor quality.
Thanks for this. Would the one ton dampers be the dampers of choice, then?
C
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What are the correct springs and shocks for a military spec framed 109" Series 3?
It came with parabolics that are well rusted, and from conversation with the previous owner, rather 'wafty' going down the road.
9 leaf or 11 leaf?
Cheers,
Colin
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The hubs below are from the axles of a Stage 1. Are the markings FRC 1993 a casting number or a part number.
I cannot find FRC 1993 as a part number in the LR Workshop site and the same hubs (FRC3875) are listed for Stage 1 and Series 3 after 1980.
Thanks,
Colin
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Jon,
I agree.
The DDE kit uses Land Rover solid discs on all corners with LR four piston calipers up front and two piston calipers at the back. I think as found on a Land Rover 90.
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Thanks Daan,
My problem is that I bought my Series 3 109 with the original Heystee disc conversion at the front. Both of the calipers were totally seized (hence the reason for the accident the truck was in, and the subsequent 'offer I couldn't refuse' when I bought it), and the replacement rotors are impossible to source, even if I could get replacement Santana calipers.
When considering options, I debated going back to the original drum set-up, the kit from Rocky Mountain (With GM calipers and the necessity to machine the rotors), the Zeus kit, or the new style Heystee with the Defender 110 vented discs and calipers.
Heystee is out of stock until well into the new year so I decided to try the Design Engineering option for front and rear discs, which are now on their way across the Atlantic as we speak.
I'll post some photos when I get to the job. The machining of the hubs will be done by a local machine shop and I'll get all 4 done at the same time...hopefully replication will make the task easier for them and a bit cheaper for me...haha!
My biggest shock was the price of the Wolf wheel lugs! Yikes times 20!
I already have the Wolf wheels on my 110 for the Series 3, and the One Ton rims that came with the Series 3 will look great on the 110. I will need to get one more Wolf for the spare tire.
The One ton rims cleaned up really well.
Be safe.
Colin
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Does anyone here have any experience with the Design Development Engineering disc brake conversion kit? Front and rear.
It seems like a capable bit of engineering. site is: https://www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/
Found one video here:
Thanks.
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Not experienced with this unit...do you clutch between shifts or is it like an electric OD?
Thanks
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Hey Folks,
I have a 2.5 N/A diesel that seems to be loosing coolant. Before driving I fill through the overflow tank until this is half full. After a drive the tank is empty and the rad is down. There are no obvious leaks from the hoses, the dipstick oil is not 'moussey', the exhaust is not white and it accelerates and operates as expected.
I am thinking that I have a head gasket leak, but want to check here with the collective wisdom of the tribe to make sure there is not another area to look into. The engine was rebuilt about 5 years ago and I have gone maybe 3000km since.
Any advice or guidance will be greatly appreciated.
Best,
Colin
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12 hours ago, Romahomepete said:
Contact Rob Stanyer on facebook, he has imported a few sets, he may still have one left
Peter
Thanks. I have sent a DM to, hopefully, the correct Rob Stanyer. There are at least four that I found based in the UK!
C
Mile Marker castellated nut to halfshaft
in Series Forum
Posted
How does one tighten the castellated nut that secures the outer end of the half shaft, and to what torque?
I have made a tool to spin the nut on, but the halfshaft spins when I try to tighten it.
Do I need to push in the locking ring on the hub at the same time? I have a piece of tubing that I can use to push this ring in with as I tighten the nut.
The truck is a 1983 Series 3 109.
Thanks