Cchase

Tanuki, A good use of 'found' time! I cleaned all of the calipers and greased the pins that hold them in the fall after a particularly muddy trail ride. Two of the rear pistons were a bit stiff and the rear pads and rotors will need attention soon. My truck suffers more from sitting around than from use. I think that I will purchase new calipers, but rebuild the old ones to keep as spares. This will be a good winter project for next year. Thanks, all.

Thanks for all of the great advice. I really appreciate your collective experience! Same seals as for a Mini!! http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/17H8764.aspx Cheers, Colin

Having done a lot of cycling, one learns to ride/drive like the other drivers are out to kill get them. One of the first mods I did to my Defender was to put LED lighting all around and to install a third brake light at the rear. Rear fogs can also help warn off tailgaters. Does the UK have daytime running lights? I drive with my lights on all of the time in any case. Certainly it is no defense against the inattentive, texting millennial, but it helps. C

Would it be better to rebuild old calipers with stainless steel pistons and new seals, or purchase new AP-Lockheed calipers and save on the rebuild time/hassle? These seem to be quite reasonable from Paddocks: http://www.paddockspares.com/seb500470g-front-brake-caliper-new-lh-vented-from-la930456-ap.html Thanks, Colin

Today. Beautiful, but heavy to shovel.

Getting tired of this $h%^!! Wet, heavy heart attack snow...but pretty! Three days ago there was not a bit of white to be seen. Hope you all are staying warm. C

Our local car club had a member present on a repair he did on an engine block using this product. The crack was from the outside into the coolant jacket. The engine block was from a TR2. We were amazed at the successful result. It all seems to be very counter-intuitive to drill holes to fix a crack. Enjoy.

Did the same as Scotts90. I was a bit lazy and did not drill the new bottom hole after having the bar shortened by 52mm. I did mark the location for the hole, but it all fits tight enough with three bolts. These are Terrafirma, I believe, and I like the way that they also protect the sides of the back corner. The tyre carrier is a Mantec one. My spare was located on the bonnet, but I wanted better visibility and to take the mass of the spare off of the bonnet. C

Defender Snowbeast! (Not taken today...) All the best from Canada. C

OK. Mine has the tyre mounting bits and is not as bulbous, which I prefer. Thanks for the clarification. And door stealing must be for corrosion to replace doors? Makes me appreciate no one knowing what I am driving here. The general public just call it an 'Old Jeep' or a Land Cruiser. I just nod and smile.

Dumb question, but why would they steal the bonnet? Maybe this is the ultimate anti theft device?? https://jalopnik.com/a-flamethrower-option-for-your-bmw-was-once-a-totally-r-1547017088 or https://blog.beforward.jp/car-review/remember-bmw-blaster-south-africas-flamethrowing-car.html I am not an advocate of violence, but I once owned a VW GTI that was broken into 3 times for the stereo. Be safe. C

Tanuki, Any pictures of this setup? Thanks, C

A 70th birthday is a bit of a milestone and worthy of a bit of a party. I am interested in seeing more than a couple of Rovers in one place at the same time! Good seat sales with West Jet (about the same price as a return trip Halifax-Montreal) so I am in!

The only time I use the CB is when out on a trail rides with other Jeeps (I'm the only Rover). Range is fine for this. The aerial is hard to see in the photos, but extends about 2' above the roof line. C

Better view here. I found it on eBay... My truck is exMOD so it came with the aerial post.

This is what I have. It is very flexible and metal so can take some punishment. The fiberglass one that was there didn't survive in the woods. It is kind of hard to see...sorry.

Copper slip gets a big thumbs up from me...except that it gets everywhere if you are not careful!

Will a steering box from a 2004 Discovery fit on a 1995 Defender? Thanks, Colin

I welcome any feedback on this project, and any advice on how to seal the canister bottom drain holes and the joint between the two halves of the canister. Cheers, C

Here is the whole under wing piece. The elbows are two 90's and a 45. The access for the shock tower was a bit of an obstacle. And yes, it was snowing while I was doing this!

The really fussy part was to figure out how to connect the end of the snorkel pipe with the air filter canister. Thank God for plumbing stores! I found a rubber 2" to 3" coupling that fit the canister. Because the end of the canister is conical, I added some screws to the canister air in hole so that the rubber coupling could get some purchase. It will hold as a friction fit without the screws, but not tightly enough. There is also a 2" to 2" rubber joint in the pipe so I have a couple of ways to get the snorkel apart once I have glued all of the pipe and joiners together.

So... now to get to the air filter canister...

Now the bodging begins! As the truck is LHD, the pipe can enter the engine compartment through the blanking plate on the wing. I had to modify this hole a couple of times as this project went along to get the right angles and pipe lengths. I didn't glue the PVC pipe until all was fitted. I will take some split rubber hose to fill in the space around the pipe where it goes through the hole in the wing. This will keep out snow, water, leaves a bit better. The grey hose clamp will get painted black and screwed to the wing to hold the horizontal piece of pipe in place when it is all together.

I attached the Main snorkel pipe to the A-pillar after drilling and tapping holes. The kit comes with nuts and bolts to drill through the a-pillar, but there is not much room in there to try and place a nut. It seems to be solid enough this way. SS bolts were used with thread lock. Hopefully the oxidation between the metals will be slow... The pipe and top hat are metal and I had to spray a bit of rust paint on the inside to cover up some places where the powder coating missed.

I used all of the bits in the snorkel kit from the top-hat down to the flex hose. I used a straight 2" joiner piece to make the pipe diameter match the flex hose. The plastic hose clamps supplied with the snorkel kit were not great so I substituted a couple of stainless steel hose clamps to join the two ends of the flex hose. I think you lot call them jubilee clips?!