Cchase

Not wanting to hijack 14Platoon's thread, here is my somewhat Frankensteined snorkel for my 2.5 N/A. I could not find a kit dedicated to my engine so I began with the cheapest kit from Paddock's (PM714) and then used 2" PVC piping and connectors to join it all together. I still have to waterproof where the two halves of the air filter holder join and the bottom of the air filter holder where there are some holes. Any advice here would be appreciated. I ended up not using the flex pipe in the bottom of the first picture...and some of the PVC elbows. My truck is LHD, but I don't really see the down tube on the A pillar nearly as much as I thought I would. I am a visual learner so I am posting a lot of pictures. Cheers, Colin

Wow. I thought that this might be an event of note and that there might be some buzz about it on this forum. Many views on this and the international forum, but only one response. Thought that it looked interesting and could be a chance for folks on this forum to meet face to face and have a brew. I am thinking of going given it is the 70th and all. Cheers Colin

Is anyone here going to the Land Rover Legends ? https://www.landroverlegends.com/whats-on Sounds interesting and tickets are now on sale. C

Is anyone here going to the Land Rover Legends ? https://www.landroverlegends.com/whats-on Sounds interesting and tickets are now on sale. C

Neil, Would you be able to post the link here, or post the pdf to the archives? I would be interested in having this resource also. Thanks, Colin

Mike, You can have some of our snow! Colin

Thanks Paddy. I figured lots of silicone and blanking plugs would be needed. Also some neoprene gasket material where the two halves of the air cleaner holder attach.

A hole saw on a drill would work. Is your Defender and left hand drive or right hand drive? If it is Left Hand Drive you could route the hole for the pipe through the blank in the wing. I suppose you could also run it from the driver side to the same blank if rhd.

Evan, Do you have a breather hose from the oil filer cap to the 'cyclone' breather? I was having a lot of oil leaking from the same stud hole and put a rubber o-ring and washer underneath the nut. This stopped the oil coming out. I did not have smoke however, but do have the crankcase breather hose attached. My engine is newly rebuilt. As it is becoming worn in I am getting less of the positive crankcase pressure. A picture of your whole engine bay would be helpful.

Paddy, What did you do to make the air filter housing waterproof? Mine has two holes in the bottom. Thanks!

Thanks, Mark. I was thinking that the water/snow would blow in from above through the gap between the bonnet and the wing. If I were wading at that depth...water would come in through the door gaps first! C

My heater fan was rubbing against the white piece of pipe that runs from the black plastic wing air collector into the inlet for the heater fan. I tried shortening the white pipe but it was still interfering with the blades of the fan. I then tried using some dryer vent (plastic tubing with wire to keep it open). This sort of works as it does not enter the fan housing, but does not make a complete seal to keep water out. It seems that the better solution is to have something that completely covers over the outside of the flange that leads into the fan housing. Have any of you done any modification here? Possibly a flexible hose with a jubilee clip to secure it to the fan housing? If water enters the fan housing there will be the rusting of the bottom of the housing and/or the motor or bearing could be compromised. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

Triple wipers! I thought the thread was about an MGB!

Mike, Any pictures of the new shiny bits on the truck? Colin

Inside ... please! Otherwise they start to get stained and look grey and get rubbed by rocks distracting from the rugged nattiness of yer typical Defender! : )

Upper and lower rad hoses, engine coolant, lift pump, breaker bar and sockets, tool roll, ground sheet to lie on when under the car, extra litre of oil, flashlight/headlamp, tow strap, shackles, high visibility vest to wear when around the car, spare food, water and warm clothing if you are going to be on the side of the road for a while AND cell phone and CAA card (automobile assistance - for a tow)!

Very jealous from the East Coast! Did you sand blast everything before you took it to the galvanizer? I am looking forward to seeing your progress. C

There is a really good, easy to find, You Tube video on how to check relays. You just need a battery and a couple of wires.

My MG starter sometimes needs a knock from a BFH when I take it out for a first run in the spring.

Thanks Mike and Mike. These questions are really more rhetorical as the BIG overarching question is WHY drive a Land Rover at all given all of their quirks, noises and drips. Or possibly is it BECAUSE of these quirks (and for me, the fun that I have had and the places I have gone)? I welcome any other unanswerable questions/musings in this post. Cheers all.

And one final observation/question: Why is that when lining up a truck to avoid /drive over a rock, the rock magically moves to be directly under the diff regardless of how careful you are?

I joined up with some Jeeps, a couple of Suzukis, a Dodge Hemi and a Chevy Surburban for some off road trail exploration. The meeting place was a couple of hours of highway driving away so I had some time to contemplate life whilst driving a 2.5 N/A diesel (1.67 transfer case) as people passed me. In no particular order, these questions arose: 1. When the four way flashers are turned on (for going up hills if your speed is less than 70 km/h so other cars going 110 km/h don't rear end you) - Why doesn't the flasher on the binnacle match the flasher on the switch? 2. Why does the speedometer in a Defender go to 200 km/h? Is this to encourage sunny optimism in the owner? Should it be remade to max out at ... say... 100 km/h? 3. Why is it that no matter how loud you turn up the radio, it will not drown out the frequency of the squeak behind the binnacle? 4. Speaking of noises... Why is it that the truck makes squeaks, groans and rattles on pavement that disappear when on dirt or trails? Is it that the truck is happier? 5. For cars that drive behind you on the highway with their high beams on: Is it better to turn on your rear fog lights (or work lights to really scare them) or is it better to accelerate and make a big cloud of diesel smoke and make them think that they are in a fog bank? What musings have any of you had?

Do you leave your mud flaps on when off-roading or take them off? Thanks, C

Be careful to keep the alternator signal wire away from the exhaust...don't ask. I quite like having a tach. I got a round clock and mounted it with an oil pressure gauge and the fuel gauge to the centre. On the binnacle I have a oil temp, coolant temp, tach, speedometer (from left to right) Good luck, C

I know that I am breathing life into an old thread, but I'm confused as to which PAS box to use on a LHD 2.5 NA diesel. I have figured out the pump bracket and front plate, and have identified NTC9070 as the correct pump. I am looking for the pump, steering box, reservoir. pipes, and anything else that I need. I think that it is a NTC9070 pump, ERR2605 plate for the bracket. Any information on parts numbers would be appreciated. Can I use the drop arm on the manual box? The engine is a 12J 2.5 NA diesel in a 1995 exMOD Defender, LHD. I have posted an ad in the wanted section also, but am not sure exactly all that I need. Thanks, Colin