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Getting Comfortable
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About Mattsuffolk

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  1. Thanks Nige, I'll drop you an email and we can go from there Matt
  2. Hi guys, Something has gone pop on a friends ECU, originally from Nige as a built unit, as you can see from the pic one of the tracks has burnt out on the board. The burnt out track is from pin 28 of the main connection, which appears to be the main 12v in to the ecu I have tried bridging a wire across the ‘gap’ and, with that in place, the jimstim wouldn’t even show a power light so I assume something pretty bad was going on so didn’t leave it on too long for fear of letting more smoke out... From this I assume that one of the components on the board has gone bad, any ideas where I should be looking? Also does Nige offer a diagnosis/repair service should it be beyond a simple component replacement? Any ideas gratefully received Thanks Matt
  3. PM sent, very interested to give this a go
  4. Have a look at this post - I drew up how I wired my relay board
  5. I now have my '88 Range Rover Classic running on a Nige MS kit and thought I would put together a few of the oddities I came across during the conversion that I struggled to find information about, I may well cover things that have already been documented (but I didn't find), if so I apologise, and this is simply my experience of the install... Fitting the newer top end assembly, mine came from Nige and was originally off a 3.9 engine (others may differ), the differences to the original flapper that had to be overcome were: The feed from the thermostat housing to the heater matrix is in a different position (3.5 is at the front, bottom right, 3.9 is on the left hand side of the housing), originally I though I could just move the fitting to the '3.5' postion (as there is a blank in the 3.9 in that position) but they are different threads!? In the end I shorterned the fixed pipe and cut the original rubber hose to suit the side position fitting - As below Throttle cable linkage - the linkage that came with the 3.9 top end required the throttle cable to enter from the right hand side, there was no way my existing cable was going to reach as on the flapper linkage it enters at the back of the plenum. So I used the flapper linkage but this then made it tricky to install the PWM valve, although with a bit of jiggling is did fit and not foul any of the linkage etc. I couldn't however fit it on the nice bracket that comes in Nige's kit. I had to blank one of the larger vacuum ports on the left hand side, there was a couple of blanks in the kit but neither were the correct thread, so I ended up cutting the barb off the fitting I wanted to blank, drilling and tapping it then screwing a bolt into it (with some thread sealant) The fuel pump installation required cutting a hole in the boot floor (or dropping the tank), which I did, I will look up the dimensions that I found and add them to this thread later. The rest of the hardware installation was pretty straightforward, although the screws provided for mounting the coil pack bracket (the two through the waterpump) did not have enough thread cut on them, they bottomed out on the thread way before they came out of the back of the waterpump housing, I ended up running a die down them to extend the threads, once I'd worked out the thread type, I think they were a UNC (maybe UNF) thread and they were both different sizes, just to make it more interesting! off the top of my head I can't remember the sizes, I will find out and update. Installation of the ECU itself was pretty straight forward, for simplicities sake I have fitted it in the same postion as the stock ECU, under the drivers seat, not ideal from a wetness point of view but I intend to build it into a waterproof box in the not too distant future. I screwed the ECU and relay board to a piece of MDF that then bolted to the the original ECU mounting positions I also fitted a screw terminal rail to use as an earth point for the main ECU earth, Lambda heater etc. . Rightly or wrongly (please tell me if its the latter) I wired the orange PWM feed to one of the Inj 12V points on the relay board, it appears to be working ok, also I earthed the EDIS unit back to my earth rail (not an ECU earth), again, seems to be working fine. These were both best guesses really as the wiring diagram wasn't 100% clear, I also drew this up to make wiring the relay board up easier... Hope this is of some use to anyone undertaking the conversion and I will add to this thread as more things come back to me! Matt
  6. Having just had it powered up and running, I've discovered that this is in fact incorrect. My TPS was reading backwards... The correct arrangment should be (I had the ground and reference voltage round the wrong way): TPS Green - Signal - MS Red TPS Brown - +5V - MS Yellow TPS Blue - Ground - MS Green I did try and edit the original post but it wouldn't let me, maybe a mod could change it and delete this post?
  7. Right, all tested and worked out, I'll summarise below as to hopefully help someone in the future: TPS Green - Signal - MS Red TPS Brown - Ground - MS Green TPS Blue - +5V - MS Yellow
  8. Thanks for the replies, I will stick a meter over it tonight and see what I can find out.
  9. Hi all, I'm in the process of fitting a Nige MS kit to my '88 RRC. As I'm replacing a flapper system, I have fitted a hot wire top end (from Nige) which came with a TPS with the Blue/Brown/Green wire colours, and I cannot find the correct information regarding which colour is which related to the red/green/yellow of the MS wiring. It is in Nige's manual, but there is a typo and it mentions the green TPS wire twice and no mention of the brown, found some info online but that contradicted the manual. Have spent a while searching online before asking and couldn't find the answer. Could someone let me know the correct wire configuration please. Also, on a side note, is the PWM valve polarity sensitive? I'm assuming not as I can't find a definite answer online or in the manual And one last thing (promise), the feed to the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is a totally different sensor on the hot wire top end (small with a bullet connection) than the flapper (larger with a spade termainal), I hoped to just fit the flapper one in place of the Hotwire one but they are a different size thread, can I just connect the Hotwire sensor and all will be well?? Thanks Matt
  10. Hi all, First time post so please go easy! I have recently purchased a full kit from Nige to 'squirt my '88 RRC, to rid it of the dreaded flapper system. I opted for an unbuilt ECU kit and have been building it over the last couple of weeks, I am now testing with a Jim Stim but from what I can make out I don't have any ignition output (none of the group of IGN LEDs flash on the Stim, where as the injector ones do) I have assembled the ECU exactly as a built one would come from Nige (he very kindly supplied detailed pics for me to follow) so I have incorporated the various modifications needed for this type of application and have managed to work out that the ignition output is part of that modification, using the resistor on the proto area, linked to the LED nearest the 9 pin socket etc. The odd thing is that LED is always lit, which I think should be flashing in time with the ignition signal? Does anyone have any ideas of what I should be testing/checking for? I can put some pics up later of my board if it will help diagnosis (in case I've missed something silly!) It's also possible that this may just be a set up issue on my part, either on the Stim or in the software (I have loaded up the correct firmware and an MSQ from Nige though) Any input gratefully received, if I've missed any critical information I apologies, I'm a bit new to all this still! On a more positive note, I made a start with the hardware install last night, managed to get the exhaust collector off ready for fitting of the lambda sensor over the weekend Matt
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