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Dave64

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About Dave64

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  • Location
    Avoca, Vic. Australia

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    Anything mechanical, adapting/modifying vehicles when others say it's impossible, not worth it or just plain ridiculous!

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  1. Thanks, Snagger. I was particularly interested in those conical type filters which clamp directly to the turbo inlet. Not a replacement filter that went inside the existing canister, I am going to have to rethink just how I'm going to go about it. I'm wondering about the cost of throwing those conical types away, even though you can clean them somewhat. The standard air filter cartridge goes for about A$ 20-25 a throw, think those 3" conicals around the $75, but you should get at least 12 months out of one. Still leaves me with what to do with the breather pipe, could return it direct to the inlet manifold, maybe put some sort of small canister which could be washed out when servicing. Dave64
  2. Thanks for a well balanced set of replies, Guys. Snagger, that was one of my worries, where the breather returms air/vapour to the original canister type. Any chance of putting up a snap showing where you hooked yours up and how you used the finned piece? Much appreciated, Dave64
  3. HI ALL, Just wondering if anyone's had any success, or what they think of those "K&N" type conical filters? My project is going to be cramped around the engine area using the standard air canister that was on the original engine. Had a bit of a look at those aforementioned filters, easy to mount just about anywhere, but don't know just how efficient they would be on a diesel, just point out this engine in a non L/R chassis. Whatever air filter arrangement would have to be very compact, even thought of a single oil bath similar to the old dual Commer arrangement (just use one) that ran up the back of the cab, or an oil bath that sat on top of the manifold like the old Gardiner engines. But height may be a problem with one of those. Dave64
  4. Thanks for your view(s), It was more academic than anything really. I was interested to know just what the three different outputs were (a) As a normal TD! 200 12L (b) Without the intercooler but retain the turbo (c) without either the turbo or intercooler as in the case of these blokes fitting the 12L into earlier versions of Landrovers. As yet I haven't seem figures published, lots of "should make xxxx HP and zzzz torque" but nothing solid. My project ISN'T a Land Rover product, only using the engine, which is in exceptional nick (the body rotted away around it) and I had a use for it and so used it but running it derated. I'll take that on board about the injector cleaner, certainly wouldn't hurt to run a bottle through it. Vehicle drivable but can't take it out on the road, can't give it a decent run up and down the driveway. Thanks, Dave64
  5. Spoke to a diesel injector bloke couple of days ago, asked about symptoms and explained that engine has been sitting around for a few years, although I have been starting it at least once a month, let it run up to operating temp at about 1750rpm, and was making "fuel" smoke, dark but not excessive. He suggested it is more a waxing in the fuel problem, reckons ripping the injectors out first and then see what transpires. I have no idea how many miles are on the motor, or when the pump was last done as I inherited it out of the vehicle. Injector bloke says we do the squirters first and try tweaking the pump back a touch, if still "Smoky", then have a look at the pump. Seems a fair call to me. He also reckons that it would be a bit of a waste in this application, to remove the Turbo, Intercooler not so much. At one time I considered installing a full size intercooler in front of the radiator itself, plenty of room, get the thing going first. Dave64
  6. Thanks for the replies, Men.will shoot twodoorgaz a P/M as suggested. Dave64
  7. Thanks Guys Just read all that and he suggests "around 75HP" but doesn't go any deeper into proposed torque figures.
  8. Hi All, Know this is an old post, but I only came onto it by pure chance. I too have often wondered just what the results would be as per twodoorgaz's project. I too have a project very similar to that he's doing where I neither need nor require either the Turbocharger or the intercooler. My own thoughts are/were that the main points of Gaz's thrust were being treated just a little disdainfully. I'm with him in many ways, he posted a topic asking for input, which was readily responded to but to be fair, as an outsider some of the comments were a little offhand. He openly stated that this is what he wanted to achieve, he was prepared to go about it in such a way and be damned with the consequences! Can't ask for anything straighter than that! Quite a few of responses were from people whom i respect on this forum, have gleaned some good info myself to suit my own particular project. I did notice that the topic seemed to have just dispersed into thin air with no apparent confirmation, after about three pages. Does this mean that consensus couldn't be reached? I for one would like to know if twodoor gaz and his "Project Gemini" ever came to fruition and just how successful it was, especially relating to derating the actual engine. I'm one of these blokes who like to not only think outside the box, but also enjoy seeing others doing the same. When a lot younger I was one of those who would race out and buy the latest "hottest" gear available to bolt onto my Yank Iron. Learnt after a while that sometimes it is not ONLY about squeezing the maximum HP out of a known volume, nowadays it is about a thing called reliability and longevity. Unless I'm mistaken or reading it wrong, this was the main gist of twodoorgaz's letter in the first place. He openly stated, "it's my money, my time, it's a lifetime project and I'm gonna give it a shot"!. Well, all I can do is agree with him and say more power to your arm! Like a lot of forums, sometimes people get sidetracked from the original topic, that's not to say it's not entertaining, but often the main thrust of the query gets bogged down. So, again I ask his question. The basic guts of it seems to be, turf the turbo, the intercooler, reset the pump back to an N/A setting and let the HP/torque figures fall where they may. AND, nobody had came up with expected figures. Or I missed that as well? Cheers to All Dave64
  9. Hi All, Really only a general question and one that you blokes should be able to confirm/deny pretty easily. 12L engine came from a manual trans vehicle. Just seems to be a minor disparity in published BHP and Torque figures. I'm working out of a Haynes Discovery Manual covering 1989 to 1998. The figures given in the book are as follows:- 111 BHP @ 4000RPM, peak Torque of 196ft/lbs @1800 RPM. Figures I gleaned from this forum are given as (Disco) 113 BHP @4250-- 195ft/lbs@ 1800RPM---------(Defender) 109BHP@ 3900RPM--188ft/lb @ 1800RPM. Really not going to worry me too much, but in my application I want to run the engine without an intercooler, at least for a while. Going by several reports of blokes retrofitting the 200TDI 12L engine into earlier L/R's, doesn't really hurt them and you can leave your fuel settings as is (i.e. std as in TDI) I can't even remember just where I got these figures from, perhaps here or somewhere on the net, but these are the ones I copied down for a TDI less the intercooler:- 105 HP and 175 ft/lb torque. (I'm assuming would be at same RPM as TDI). So, if the figures in the Haynes manual are to be taken seriously, as well as the ones for running NO intercooler, stand to lose 6 bhp BUT 21ft/lb of torque. Not much of a loss in gross HP, but 21 ft/lb of torque is worth considering. Still way above and beyond the original engines figures and obviously would benefit by replacing an intercooler at a later date. Probably have to be custom made to fit in with original vehicles radiator. Not insurmountable by any means, ways and means of working your way around most problems. Like to know your thoughts, Dave64
  10. Nonimouse, Thanks for your reply, have taken note. As it is at the moment, running the stock standard 200TDI canister type air cleaner, with a short 2+1/2" exhaust with virtually full flow muffler, Had considered going up to a 3" from the first elbow (about 10" from turbo), out under the chassis, but can do that anytime. Was given the engine quite a few years ago as a project, so am unsure just how many KM's are on the injectors, probably wouldn't hurt to have the pump looked at, at the same time. Engine has virtually cost me nothing except a few "O"rings and seals. Starts very easily, even in the dead of winter here , only gets down to zero and being under cover, requires no Glow plug or any help of any kind. Always fires first touch of the starter, holds good oil pressure even when warmed up to 160-180 F, around the 45lb/sq in, so am reluctant to touch the engine itself, pump and injectors probably yes. Thanks again, Dave64
  11. Hi Maverik, Thanks again for the heads up. Since last posting have been doing a bit of reading up on the 200TDI, certainly getting some varied views! Reason I started looking into it is that the vehicle its in, is undrivable at the moment, I do go out once every couple of weeks and fire her up, let it warm the engine up, check for leaks etc. One thing grabbed my attention at first was the amount of smoke generated when either at low, or high idle, but if the throttle is set up to run around the 1800-2000RPM, once the engine warms, the smoke seems to lessen somewhat. Could be simply needs a good run on the road to "blow the cobwebs out", i.e. put under a load. Going by what I have been reading, it would seem that around the 2700RPM seems to be the "sweet spot" for these engines. I know blokes say they will rev out to over 4 grand, but my application and what gearing I expect of it, 3000RPM MAX would suit me down to the ground. I originally plumped for 2500 RPM "change points" with the transmission (NP435) behind it, but a few blokes are telling me I may get good economy but after a while it will start to "gum up". Don't really believe that, bought a 3 litre TDI Prado brand new in 2004, drove it conservatively and now 16 years and well over 200,000Km still as sprightly as ever, with no seemingly adverse problems. That particular vehicle has been driven like that since new, I'm the only one who does drive it and a lifetime of driving trucks on interstate taught me a few fundamentals. So, unless that "tinkering" with the boost pin thingo has any benefits for a smoky engine at idle (I'm hearing and reading the opposite!). i think I will leave it alone (at least for the time being!). The other thing I didn't mention is that at this stage I will probably run this vehicle as just straight turbocharged, WITHOUT the intercooler. Again, going by what I have read by some blokes over your way who have dropped these 200 TDI engines into earlier L/R's, they do quite well WITHOUT the intercooler and sometimes even as naturally aspirated. AND, without major adjustments to the injector pump. Personally, I would try just the turbo, but without the intercooler and leave all the fuel settings alone. Cheers, Dave64
  12. Thanks, Maverik. Bit further research required before tampering. In my application, maybe "If it ain't broken, don't fix it !" Dave 64
  13. Thanks anyway, only ran it long enough to test for leaks etc. Dave
  14. "No, that would not cause that problem. If the boost compensation diaphragm failed, you would have low power. In your first photo, it does not look like anything is connected to the fuel return pipe on the injection pump." Photo taken when fitting removed to get correct size return line, which has since been re-installed, Leaks stopped. Engine is only sitting in chassis, so can't test it under any type of "Load" conditions. When started after new return line installed, also added boost gauge, went to flight revs (no load) turbo pumped manifold pressure up to around 7-8 lb, (what's normal?), blew what I would call excessive smoke, didn't sustain that, shut it down after idling for a short time. Can actually smell "raw" fuel, so maybe the injectors need looking at. Pump had already been done not long before I inherited this engine. Dave64
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