Dave64

Bowie69, Thanks for that, did as you suggested, no drama, better than removing the whole shooting match, Cheers, Dave64

HI All, Just a general purpose query on the water pump boss on the TD200 engine (12J ??). The actual boss which has the LEFT HAND thread for the viscuous fan! Because I am running a large electric fan and the offset of the fan itself is too large for my engine instillation, would be nice if I could shorten the threaded part, would give me an extra inch clearance between the water pump and the radiator itself. I should note this is NOT in a L/R or R/R ! I have turned the radiator on its side, 45 degrees fits in nicely width and height wise, up for a new core, so first question would be can you fit a 4 or 5 core to the brass tanks? I also know that I have to swap the inlet and outlet spouts, flus the brass filler plug and the line to the header tank, from one side to the other. Shouldn't be too much drama have a radiator bloke who made me something similar on another 4WD, albeit a few years ago. He said if it's a brass (it is) or copper one, can be done. So what's involved in removing the actual threaded boss? My workshop book tells you little about it. If I can remove it and fit it in the lathe, I could turn the thing down myself. Anyone ripped one apart? Thanks, Dave64

Thanks, Dave64

Thanks Dave64

Nonimouse wrote:-"Can you not mount it on the wing?" As in one of my replies above, it(200 engine) is in a small cab over truck, very confined, there is no "wing". Dave64

Yeah, can always do that, fair distance for the turbo to drag the air from though. Could always be helped a bit by a '" Ram Horn", one of those Donaldson type , but you have to be doing fifty km's an hour to jam the air down into the turbo. Cabin away at the moment. Dave64

All good and valuable info Guys. Thanks! As I pointed out previously, the 200 engine is going into a project vehicle (a small cab-over truck) where the only realistic place to mount the air cleaner is either by one of those tapered conical looking filters directly to the turbo inlet, mount the original canister type facing straight downwards, reluctant for reasons previously stated, OR maybe one of those rectangular box affairs similar to a 300 engine, mounted on some sort of frame sitting on top of the engine. Engine hatch would have to be modified for that. Keep scratching around, will come up with something. Cheers, Dave64

Yeah, might give one a try. There's a device available to suit a small diesel up to 2.5 litre, which is a simple centrifugal canister with a very fine washable element in it, which you can run your breather pipe into, through this device, then into the filter housing. Have ordered one so can try it whilst the cab still off the chassis. May be worthwhile looking at, cost around the A$35 mark, easily fitted and just may stop the air/vapour/oil being sucked through the turbo. Only thing I was a bit worried was how those conical type do on a diesel engine. Vehicle unlikely to be going on a a dirt road, or operating under similar conditions. Did have room where it could have been installed facing directly downwards, but would mean that the cartridge would have to have been removed from the bottom of the canister, also would be likely to pick up spray off the road. Easier to leave her parked up if it's wet! Dave64

Thanks, Snagger. I was particularly interested in those conical type filters which clamp directly to the turbo inlet. Not a replacement filter that went inside the existing canister, I am going to have to rethink just how I'm going to go about it. I'm wondering about the cost of throwing those conical types away, even though you can clean them somewhat. The standard air filter cartridge goes for about A$ 20-25 a throw, think those 3" conicals around the $75, but you should get at least 12 months out of one. Still leaves me with what to do with the breather pipe, could return it direct to the inlet manifold, maybe put some sort of small canister which could be washed out when servicing. Dave64

Thanks for a well balanced set of replies, Guys. Snagger, that was one of my worries, where the breather returms air/vapour to the original canister type. Any chance of putting up a snap showing where you hooked yours up and how you used the finned piece? Much appreciated, Dave64

HI ALL, Just wondering if anyone's had any success, or what they think of those "K&N" type conical filters? My project is going to be cramped around the engine area using the standard air canister that was on the original engine. Had a bit of a look at those aforementioned filters, easy to mount just about anywhere, but don't know just how efficient they would be on a diesel, just point out this engine in a non L/R chassis. Whatever air filter arrangement would have to be very compact, even thought of a single oil bath similar to the old dual Commer arrangement (just use one) that ran up the back of the cab, or an oil bath that sat on top of the manifold like the old Gardiner engines. But height may be a problem with one of those. Dave64

Thanks, makes sense to me. Dave64

Thanks for your view(s), It was more academic than anything really. I was interested to know just what the three different outputs were (a) As a normal TD! 200 12L (b) Without the intercooler but retain the turbo (c) without either the turbo or intercooler as in the case of these blokes fitting the 12L into earlier versions of Landrovers. As yet I haven't seem figures published, lots of "should make xxxx HP and zzzz torque" but nothing solid. My project ISN'T a Land Rover product, only using the engine, which is in exceptional nick (the body rotted away around it) and I had a use for it and so used it but running it derated. I'll take that on board about the injector cleaner, certainly wouldn't hurt to run a bottle through it. Vehicle drivable but can't take it out on the road, can't give it a decent run up and down the driveway. Thanks, Dave64

Spoke to a diesel injector bloke couple of days ago, asked about symptoms and explained that engine has been sitting around for a few years, although I have been starting it at least once a month, let it run up to operating temp at about 1750rpm, and was making "fuel" smoke, dark but not excessive. He suggested it is more a waxing in the fuel problem, reckons ripping the injectors out first and then see what transpires. I have no idea how many miles are on the motor, or when the pump was last done as I inherited it out of the vehicle. Injector bloke says we do the squirters first and try tweaking the pump back a touch, if still "Smoky", then have a look at the pump. Seems a fair call to me. He also reckons that it would be a bit of a waste in this application, to remove the Turbo, Intercooler not so much. At one time I considered installing a full size intercooler in front of the radiator itself, plenty of room, get the thing going first. Dave64

Thanks for the replies, Men.will shoot twodoorgaz a P/M as suggested. Dave64