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Dave64

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About Dave64

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  • Location
    Avoca, Vic. Australia

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    Anything mechanical, adapting/modifying vehicles when others say it's impossible, not worth it or just plain ridiculous!

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  1. Thanks anyway, only ran it long enough to test for leaks etc. Dave
  2. "No, that would not cause that problem. If the boost compensation diaphragm failed, you would have low power. In your first photo, it does not look like anything is connected to the fuel return pipe on the injection pump." Photo taken when fitting removed to get correct size return line, which has since been re-installed, Leaks stopped. Engine is only sitting in chassis, so can't test it under any type of "Load" conditions. When started after new return line installed, also added boost gauge, went to flight revs (no load) turbo pumped manifold pressure up to around 7-8 lb, (what's normal?), blew what I would call excessive smoke, didn't sustain that, shut it down after idling for a short time. Can actually smell "raw" fuel, so maybe the injectors need looking at. Pump had already been done not long before I inherited this engine. Dave64
  3. Fitted a new excess fuel return line, whatever the problem seems to have stopped leaking, fair amount of fuel being returned though. Gave it a big bootful and just about choked myself on the smoke. Reading on another forum over here that a bloke over the West (Australia) had similar symptoms and he posted a link back to this one. Seems that there is a diaphragm affair on top of the pump which monitors the fuel and when the turbo is working under load, meters the fuel. If I have this right, IF the diaphragm goes bad, it can let fuel back into the system causing "overfuelling". The link to this forum was regarding a 19J engine, looking at the photos, mine being a 12L has a different pump. What looks like a diaphragm housing sits on top facing upwards. Don't know if the 12L suffers from similar symptoms as a 19J as I'm unfamiliar with them. Easy enough to get at, haven't taken the top cover off yet but maybe could have something to do with the initial problem??
  4. Hi All, Came across a bit of an abnormality with this TDI 200 engine (ex Disco) where there seems to be a fair pressure build up in the return line from the top of the pump back to the tank. Enough to cause a fuel leak at the fittings. You can remove the return hose from the tank end and drain it into a container and no probs. You can also put a bit of hose on the return line where it goes back into the tank and it will blow through alright, so doesn't appear to be any obstruction. The tank is off a Mazda E3000 Diesel which has a NON vented screw type cap with a rubber seal. There is an additional vent line built into the tank which has a small nylon sliding ball in it, which is some sort of safety device to stop fuel escaping in case of a roll-over. Funny thing is, when the tank only had about two inches of fuel in it, didn't leak. Filled the tank to about halfway up and I'm surmising that the extra weight of fuel is stopping the return line from operating correctly. I've had the fuel sender out to fit a new one and shown a torch in, the return line is roughly the same height above the bottom of the tank as the pick up line. Wondering if it may be a combination of the original Range Rover fuel tank return fuel line just vented straight into the TOP of the tank and also the original may have had a vented cap. Often seen tanks where an excess fuel line returns to the filler neck and then returns to mix with the cooler fuel. I don't run it for very long the way it is. I did notice last time I started the engine that it seemed a bit "smoky" at idle. If the return fuel line is not doing it's job as it was designed, could be building up TOO much pressure at the engine? I was going to try swapping the lines for the return line and the vent line so the fuel returns straight to the top and leave the cap off so it vents to the atmosphere. As it's not yet on the road, can tinker a bit, but obviously have to have some sort of vent into a charcoal canister affair for eventual registration. Any thoughts? ALSO, have a boost gauge coming, 0-30 psi, and already have a bung in the fitting halfway along the INLET manifold. Someone told me that they run around 10-14psi, increases slightly under load?? Pyrometer would be nice but will be some time before I get around to the exhaust, currently drops straight down with a 90* elbow, 2&3/4". Normally, where would the pyro be fitted i.e. just how close to the turbo outlet flange?? Thanks again, Dave
  5. Hi, just a quick question what sort of pressure (psi) should a power steering pump off a 200TDI Discovery produce? Seems to be a few variations depending on just which forum you look under. Have read that "normal operating pressure" for a pump should be around the 1000-1100 psi range, yet read elsewhere that around 1400 psi would also be considered "normal". My manual doesn't give any rating, in fact it tells you that they are virtually a "throw away" unit and should be left to a L/R specialist. Thanks, Dave64
  6. Couple of photos, one with the power steering pump in original position, second is with the idler pulley I jammed on there so I could start the engine with the water pump spinning. Just sit the original L/R radiator there when I want to run it. I moved the alternator to the other side as I wanted a bit of space between the near side of the engine and chassis rail to stand the original air cleaner upright. That idler pulley that tensions the alternator, think it may have come off a Defender? Doesn't matter, it works anyway. Reason for the Spicer blue paint is I somehow ended up with a carton of spray cans of it, so as soon as I install something and am happy with it, I paint it so I know I don't have (or shouldn't have) to go back to it. Photos in reverse order, but you'll sort it out Cheers, Dave64
  7. Thanks Men! Will post a few photos in a day or so. Dave64
  8. Hi again Guys, think I may have this finally sorted out. Reckon I should have been looking up posts on the DEFENDER forum, as well as the DISCOVERY. Seems almost certain that the engine is from an Australian release 1991 or 1992 DISCOVERY, has the 12L stamped on the block. Where I've been going wrong ordering bits and pieces, be they used or new, is getting hung up on the "12L" which seems to have been dedicated to the Discovery. Because I only ever had the engine and a box of brackets, pulleys, hoses and other stock, it took a bit of headscratching to make sure it was going together as it should. And, of course, I compounded things by swapping the alternator to the other side of the block, used a few pieces off a DEFENDER just to confuse everybody including myself. I have a Haynes book here to suit 1989 to 1998 Discovery, sketchy to say the least when it comes to things like vee belt, pulley set up etc. Probably have to try and get hold of a DEFENDER vee belt and drive diagram or photo because it looks like a lot of the brackets, pulleys etc are not only placed in different positions on the 200TDI, but also the part numbers are naturally different. Well, been an interesting exercise, had me wondering just what I had taken on. Engine will live again eventually, but the rest of the original Discovery has probably been made into cutlery and on it's way back from China. Cheers, Dave64
  9. Snagger/western, Thanks for that. I must admit that until I inherited this engine (200TDI 12L ex Discovery(?), )knew absolutely zilch about the product, but thanks to many helpful replies (and learning how to trawl the different forums) have picked up some valuable knowledge/tips. Not sure if I am posting to the correct sub-section on the forum' though. My particular project is using the above mentioned engine ONLY, have adapted a different transmission into a different vehicle, NOT a L/R or R/R, so am interested mainly in matters relating to that particular motive unit. First project vehicle, way back in late sixties was installing a Perkins 4/99 diesel into a light truck. Over the years (too many to count!) have tinkered on and off with quite a few different vehicles, but not Rover products. Since then, spent most of my working life , now retired, either driving interstate trucks and/or earthmoving, even had my own truck for a while, which economics dictated I did quite a bit of my own work. But, as I said, until I started this latest project, had little to do with this product. Just as an aside, have been comparing different posts relating to the various Land Rover diesel engines and it would seem to me that prior to electronic and/ or computer controlled units, the 200 12L engine seems to have pretty good reports about it. Still have a bit of trouble coming to terms with the RPM of these smaller modern diesels. Suppose it's simply that having driven trucks on and off most of my life, 2100 RPM was the norm many years ago, around the 1500-1700 RPM is the go these days. Even my own private vehicle redlines at around the 4000 mark, had it for ten years and STILL can't get used to revving it over 3000! Although in saying that, give it a spurt every now and then just to blow the cobwebs out and stop it sooting up! Just reading some earlier posts, have found guys, like you blokes, have been very helpful to not only myself, but a myriad of others, so on behalf of all of us, thanks. For an engine that has been around for what? getting close to 30 years now?, seems to still be most parts available, over here we may have to hunt a bit for them, but quite often I have made inquiries in your part of the world, can see that even major components are not "unobtanium". Cheers, Dave64
  10. Snagger, western, thanks very much for your replies and also the diagram, all sorted now. I readily admit to being a complete novice with google, found that simply entering the topic and adding "lr4X4" took me to a whole new reference library. So, found many answers to everyday questions, makes it not only so much simpler, but won't be clogging up the forums with inane queries. Much appreciated, Cheers Dave64
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