RRMatador

ok, thank you, just needed to check. I'll order a genuine unit from somewhere. Thanks for advice

update....I have purchased a generic elm327 adapter, and have downloaded scantool 1.13. If I am able to see the real time data output I can fix this problem hopefully. However after connecting it all up, and downloading drivers for the usb port, I receive the following error "Protocol could not be detected. please check connection to vehicle and make sure ignition is on." the scantool pc interface shows a green light and says it is ready, but the led on adapter is red. It is set to baud rate of 38400 (9600 wont connect) Has anyone used this software? Am I doing something wrong or is the generic adapter I've brought no good? Thanks

Hi snagger, thanks for your help. After doing a little more research I believe I can do what is required with some software. I already have an OBD II cable, that I use to resolve my previous EAS problems. Ross Tech offer VAG COM but this seems only for VW Audi cars. I need to find something similar to work with the rangie. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm in rural spain and getting things done here can be a nightmare, I need the car daily so cant really have it off the road, its all these additional costs that make a small calibration job an expensive repair- hire cars, loss of days to take the pump somewhere (if I can find anywhere) etc etc. All that is required is a bit of tapping on the pump to bring the numbers back into line. It might seem excessive to scrap a car, but there are other issues I just cannot resolve, bouncing door locks to name but one, ive replaced door locks, and outstations, checked wiring etc etc. Damn electrical gremlins. Anyway that's for a different thread.... Thanks

Hoping someone will be able to give me some advice or options. 1997 P38 diesel DSE The top seal started to leak/weep on the fuel injection pump, and after purchasing a replacement gasket kit, I replaced the seal no problems with the pump still in situ as it didn't need to be removed for access to the top seal. I was careful to mark the casings as best I could in order to be sure that the top was realigned during reassembly. To my disappointment the car failed the MOT test on the emissions, showing it to be high. For reference my last opacity test before the repair is showing me readings of 0.89m-1. The result of my last test, post repair is showing 7.09m-1 This has come as a surprise as I had initially thought it was running lean, there is far less exhaust smoke on acceleration, and my MPG rose from 23 (pre-repair) to 29 (post repair). During the emission test, when the throttle was wide open, it did start to stutter and run out of juice at around 4k RPM, its a subtle stutter. It was the first time I was made aware there was a problem. I'm rarely running above 3k RPM. There are some helpful videos I've watched, one of which was someone that slackened the 4 top bolts of the FIP and by tapping the casing's top and moving it either left or right, probably only microns at a time, he was able to tune the emissions of the pump - however he had an opacity meter...I don't.... My local garages are claiming that as it is a FIP it needs to be removed and sent off to be recalibrated. This will not be happening, as I've decided to scrap the car before having to pay out anymore repair bills. No sooner than I have fixed one problem, I almost immediately have another to deal with. I have to draw the line somewhere....If there is an easy fix for this problem, all well and good. I have yet to find anyone who is willing to plug it into an opacity meter and "have a fiddle" to see if they can lower the emission. I'm currently thinking my only option is to have a fiddle myself, see if I can remove the stutter at 4k RPM, then take it for an emission test, see what the result is, followed by more fiddling if required (almost certainly will), followed by another trip to an opacity meter and so on.... I'm assuming that as the pump wasn't removed, the timing would not have been changed, so purchasing a timing kit for the FIP would do little to help me?? Is that right. Looking for some direction here..... Thanks, Matt

PROBLEM SOLVED. After removing the ecu's (both EAS and transmission) and giving all the connectors both inside the plugs and the terminals in the sockets a good cleaning with electrical cleaning agent and cleaning any other connectors within the system the problem has gone. Connected straight up to the laptop. Intermittent EAS pump running has also gone away. System is now running correctly. I'm assuming the culprit was dirty/bad connection in the main ecu plug. Thank you for the advice - and the motivation to recheck everything.

I'll check the Earth points this weekend when I plan to dedicate some more time to finding the fix. I'm using a straight serial connection. Never been a fan of "adapters" - just something else it misplace or to become faulty. Thanks again chaps - i'll keep you posted when I've found the fix

Im living in southern Spain, deep in the countryside. I've removed the kick panel in passenger footwell and checked the wiring - all seems to be ok. Its RHD as i bought the car over with me, but it's been here a decade and due to the severe lack of rain we have here wire corrosion generally isnt a concern - it's the dust that is generally the culprit. I havent suffered from any leaks from the heater matrix and pipework that would effect the wiring. I'll double check again and go back over everything to see if i've missed something, which is unlikely. I'll give everything another blast with compressed air to blow out any dust that maybe still lingering within the connections. Many thanks for the wiring diagram to test the pressure switch, I shall give that a go. My main concern at the moment is not being able to sync the software as this would stop me from resetting the system and clearing any stored faults. I've done a fair bit of homework going through various forums and threads, and having done so I was aware that generally the problem has been associated with corroded wires, but having not found any evidence of this in my loom I was left scratching my head, which is why I'm asking for help, hoping that some one might have suffered from the same problem....as so many of us Landy owners do. Thanks again Matt

Hi everyone, i'm having trouble with my EAS, its been an ongoing issue for me for some time now. I'll shortly be losing my marbles and im hoping that the expertise on this forum will prevent this. Here are some details on my saga.... It's a 1997 2.5DSE Had random height adjustments being made when not called upon, ie kept raising to high mode and also intermittent pump running in short bursts. To eliminate a leaking block, I have rebuilt the valve block with new seals throughout. I couldnt see any evidence of failed old seals when rebuilding, all the rubber O rings were supple and well shaped, and the diaphragm seemed ok too. The original air pump I have rebuilt countless times, new piston, barrel and seals, new thermal switch, new electrical bushes - however after a couple of recent very long journeys, it finally gave up. Starting the car for my return journey home it failed to reach normal ride height, ran just long enough to inflate pillows enough to keep it off the bump stops and to avoid a hard fault I pulled fuse 44 to disable it, as I couldnt face a bone shattering journey back. So I've shelved the old pump and brought a brand new unit, it's not OEM but a Dunlop replacement. After fitting said pump, it ran for a short period before the car rose to normal ride height. However, pump was still running in intermittent bursts, on for roughly 15 secs then stopping then back on etc - So I was now thinking that I've either got a faulty pressure switch or faulty driver pack. If i let the pump run in these cycles it does fill the tank, and I can raise and lower the car a few times in quick succession. It also seems to hold its air well, I'm confident there are no leaks, either between the tank and the block and also the block to the pillows. At this point, I thought i'd plug the laptop in and run the EAS software to see if there was any fault codes - something that I have done countless times. However I cannot get the software to Sync this time. I've usually used comm port 4, but this was not working. I cycled through the others and for some reason using comm port 3 was allowing me in (checking my laptop hardware serial ports when cable was attached was giving me both 3 and 4 ports as an option??) When I click initialise it starts the cycle connection but I never obtain a good idle. It flashes green periodically - briefly. I plugged the original air pump back in to see if the new "aftermarket" dunlop pump might be throwing an issue, but got same result. I've tried using a different laptop running a different version of Windows both 7 and 10. Nothing... I've again pulled fuse 44 to disable the system as I do not want to damage my new pump with intermittent running for extended periods. My worry is, if it throws a hard fault I currently cant access the system to reset it. So my question is, can a faulty driver pack be preventing me from making a connection with the EAS software? I've checked the cabling and the wires all seem to be ok. Could I be unlucky enough to be suffering from a faulty EAS ECU, and have an issue with either the pressure switch and or the driver pack? I've been chucking money at this car left right and centre recently, trying to sort out other "electrical" faults, I just cant keep shelling out for new parts that dont cure the problems. Living outside the uk, my access to 2nd hand parts is limited and fleabay sellers now seem to want excessive amounts to post items abroad. Please, any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated TIA Matt

Hello all, I'm still suffering intermittent gearbox issues. Gearbox overheat message displayed on dash...sometimes it just reads "gearbox over heat" other times it reads "gearbox overheat refer to owners manual" A couple of months ago I replaced the top pipe from oil cooler as it was weaping around one of the unions. I have also replaced the gearbox oil filter - which was pretty blocked with swarf. Had no issues for some time after this, but has started to play up again recently. I dropped the filter again to check but this time it was clean with no blockages. This morning I have released and checked the two breather pipes located at the rear top and side of the gearbox to check for any blockages, the reason is i seem to have very erratic fluid checks. Some days I check the fluid level is reading a little below the top mark on the dipstick (i prefer to leave it a little below rather than brim it to top mark) Somedays i check the level and it reads over an inch above the top mark. Now the RR handbook states the check should be done in the "PARK" position after running it through the gears, however the dipstick contradicts this and clear reads check when cold idling in NEUTRAL - I do the later. Could someone clarify which is the correct procedure please... If it is the later what's the timeframe all this should take place within...If I start the car, and run it through the gears and back to neutral, and check the fluid within 10seconds of this, the level is probably where i want it to be...if i check it within 20 seconds the level is creeping up, any longer and it creeps up over the top mark, but i'm assuming, that by that time the fluid channels have drained back into the sump....Am I assuming wrong? I am assuming the idea of running it through the gears is so that when the check is done, all the oil channels are filled with oil and what is left in the sump is sufficient for the pick up pipe to suck it up to continue the flow, but not so over full that the whole lot is immersed in fluid - ie with the fluid level well above the top dipstick mark. Can any of you gurus advise? FYI I try and check the levels when the ambient temp is around 20c as stated For the record i believe the gearbox has been overheating as the fluid has a "slightly" overheated smell although the colour is still a good red, not an opaque red/orange colour that I have seen most overheated oils become. I usually get the overheat message at the same place on the road - about five mins after leaving my house I have a 2 minute incline, it's not a steep incline, but due to a couple of corners my speed generally is around 30mph - whether this is sufficient airflow to cool the fluid I dont know - for the engine oil, the handbook states that any speeds below this does not supply sufficient airflow to cool the engine oil - This can be a small problem for me, as I live at altitude in Spain (over 1000m) and 85% of the roads i'm travelling on are either up or down a hill and twisty - the car will often become quite hot on these slow inclines, but then cool rapidly as it idles on the way back down with my foot on the brake. The heater fan works a treat if it is starting to get to close to the red mark, but i suppose ideally I should fit an aftermarket electric fan that I can switch on before I start to ascend...which leads me to another question, has anyone had an experience with aftermarket fans. The low budget ones I see on eBay which are either push or pull switchable blades all seem to claim different flow rates - often matching or beating flow rates that are supplied with a top end fan like a SPAL, which are 10x the price. Are these low budget fans up to the job, or should I bite the bullet and invest in a top end marque? I need more control over the cooling of the engine, and although the VC fan is efficient I really need a fan to cut in sooner as once it starts to become hot enough for the VC fan to cut in, the temps are rising quite rapidly - bearing in mind the ambient temps outside can be upto 45c with little humidity (dry hot air) if you open the window its like having a hair dryer pointed at your face.... As always I appreciate any input form the experience of this forum. All the best Matt

The RAVE manual states Dextron III to be used in my 1997 autobox. One of my oil cooler pipes is weaping badly from one of the unions, and i'm having difficulty finding Dextron III where i live. Will Dextron II surfice, at least until the new part arrives and the oil is changed? Will the 2 variations mix or should i drain current Dextron III and refill with fresh DII? Regards Matt

Changed my fuel filter on my `97 P38 DSE today, and upon emptying the filter into a clean receptical I noticed what looks like some form of shiney metal particles - I could see them sparkle as the light caught them. I can't think what it is or how it is in the fuel system. The fuel pump was changed about 6k ago, and the tank was removed and flushed out. Has anyone any ideas what may be the cause of this? Regards Matt

Hello everyone, After a battery disconnection i needed to set the windows and sunroof. Pressed the switch for the sunroof and it tilted up no problems, then went all the way back, then to the close position. Only it didnt fully close on the left hand side rear corner, and now the left hand side will not tilt. Any ideas what could have happened. Everything is well greased and lubricated, and like i said it tilted up straight away before. I've managed to pull off the black interior trim piece covering the mechanism - not easy as it's supposed to be done with the sunroof tilted open, but I dont have sufficient room to undo the torx screws. I've read that the sunroof can be "levered" back into position, but it feels locked solid and dont want to apply to much force before i've explored other ways of sorting it. TIA Matt

Thats a result - Thank you Western... Part Number is STC3262

Hi Have a '97 P38 Diesel. O rings have failed where alloy heater pipes mate with heater matrix (RH footwell). Any part numbers available or info on size and thickness would be appreciated. TIA Teo

Was there a solution to this problem? I seem to have developed exactly the same.... TIA Matt