lamar latrell

Hello all, I've had a PUMA Defender 2008 sitting with the battery disconnected for over a week. I disconnected as per the manual and the alarm didn't complain. I searched the internet first for instructions on reconnected it and have read a few horror stories of alarms going off and inconsistent immobilizer 'functionality' (being 'out of sync'). Also mention of sequences of keys, doors and so on to get it back to normal. The manual doesn't mention any of this and simply: After reconnecting the battery, a number of the vehicle systems will be reset automatically. This may take a few minutes. Some systems have to detect certain conditions while the vehicle is being driven before full operability returns. This is no way affects the safe operation of the vehicle.

Hello all, PUMA model Defender 2008. Bit of a head scratcher here after replacing my clutch master cylinder, I've bled it and had no bubbles coming through for quite a few pumps, but now that I've topped up the reservoir and closed the bleed valve the clutch pedal will still fall to the floor and stay there - i.e. no spring return from the clutch itself. I'm not losing any fluid or see any leaks. The original problem displayed similar symptoms where the pedal would fall to the floor - but only after a fair amount of driving without using the clutch, and pumping a couple of times would get it working again. It is now like this all the time. (Master cylinder was a relatively easy/cheap 'try it and see' diagnostic.) I'm wondering how I've made it worse? Or have I just forgotten some simple step in working with the clutch hydraulics? My only thought is that there is still air in the line and depressing the clutch is compressing that instead of hydraulically activating the slave cylinder - but if I'm not seeing air in the fluid then ?? Any tips appreciated.

Hello All, Interior lights stay on in 'Auto' setting Using 'Auto' mode both rear and front interior lights are staying on when all doors shut. The alarm will not beep at me when I arm it (indicating door switches may well be OK). 'Off' mode switches lamp off. When I manually depress a door switche the lamps will dim slightly. (this is interesting yeah?) I've read a few forum threads regarding this issue but the symptoms and car model are different and/or the discussion never comes to a clear resolution. Common topics include: door switches, multi-function units (MFU) and corrosion causing spurious electrical connections. Defender is 90,000kMs and mostly clean, but I do suspect it's done a bit of rough and wet work with previous owners. I'm pulling apart the front to access the clutch assembly tomorrow (swap out master cylinder) - I figure it's the best time to also deal with footwell leaks and now this dang lighting issue. Any experience on how to access the parts and any good diagnostics would be greatly appreciated!

Hello, I've done a reasonable amount of research to know either will suit my requirements so now I'm in the market for a Defender Td5 90 or 110. It will be my first Land Rover. I've found a 90 and have to travel some distance to check it out, I want to make the most of the trip and make a logical decision to buy it or not (as opposed to buying it to make the hassle worth while) Details: 2004 model ~80,000Km Manual, 2495cc 2 Owners - private sale Story: "First owner a pilot, second hardly used it... Stored indoors." ... Not much more... What questions should I be asking, and what answers would I want to hear? What should I be looking at, listening to, feeling, sniffing ? Any tips appreciated.