cackshifter

Stunning pictures for posterity. And they might even help me explain to SWMBO how it works. Maybe.

Yes well, NZ has a surfeit of hydro-electricity, much, much fewer people, and the properties usually have much more land so driveway charging is less of a problem. It's much more able to quickly adapt to electric cars.

The glow plugs take 16 amps each and are fed through a 60 amp fuse.

The engine was designed when 15w/40 was the best commonly available. The 40 gives the viscosity (and it is this determines the oil film thickness) at 100C, the 15w at 0C. However if you look at the actual viscosity numbers you can see that even '5W' is still much thicker than '40'. The clearances are designed for when the engine is hot, ie the the '40'. Therefore, if you use 5w/40 or 10w/40 the viscosity at start will be nearer the warm viscosity, so the oil will get to pressure and be pumped round sooner on a cold start. The eventual pressure may not be quite as much as cold 15w/40 but that doesn't matter as it'll be higher than when its warm anyway, and you don't need huge pressure; that's just a sign of the effort the pump is making to circulate it. Your turbo in particular will like this, but it will reduce wear on other things, oil pump etc as the pressure isn't as big when cold, but it gets to pressure sooner. So the 5w/40 or 10w/40 will help with cold starts and warming up. There's no reason you can't take advantage of oil improvements over the last couple of decades. We do a lot of short journeys; I use Millers 5w/40 EE but oil is like choice of underwear; everyone has their own ideas.

It may use a bit of oil initially, but that should reduce with use. I'd just keep an eye on the level.

Good to hear it lives again. It must feel better after all that TLC.

Suspense is killing. But those switches die for a pastime.

Finger crossed obvs. I think you'll have to see how it feels - if it feels tight don't go mad, but equally avoid being ridiculously gentle, You said the hone had increased the friction, I think the thing is just use it without extremes.

I'd give it 10-15 sec bursts and let the starter rest a bit between; if you have no oil in the filter it'll take a few goes to fill that. Once the oil light goes out, give it a couple of seconds more. Then bleed etc and fire up. Let it idle for a bit and check for leaks, before a local run just in case. Assuming you have oiled all the bits as you assembled?

I'd disconnect the stop solenoid and build oil pressure first. Then do what you say. I think big leaks will be fairly obvious, small ones you can look for with some running.

Or maybe turn it into an ibex?

It does sound like as L19Mud says the excitation is not happening at start - the revcounter is driven from a phase of the output winding, so dead revcounter=no output definitely, but it is fed through the charge light (and usually a parallel resistor) so if the light comes on the current must be going somewhere.Perhaps this a dead field diode, and it is OK once it has built some speed, and produces enough volts on the remaining diode. Remember, a 45 amp alternator probably doesn't produce 45 amps till it's spinning at quite a decent speed. If you sit in traffic a lot, engine idling , eberspacher on, listening to a lot of deep bass etc perhaps demand exceeds supply sometimes

I'd suggest as per Mo the problem encountered by the OP may well be the light switch on the steering column, as these arc eventually. The heat melts the plastic the contact studs are in, and eventually there is no contact. Try a bit of gentle judicious jiggling of the switch when the headlights are actually on, ie when the ignition is on too. It might also of course be the relay in the headlight feed or the dip switch but the column switch has to be prime suspect, assuming the lights aren't relayed.

There are DC to DC ('boost')converters that will increase the voltage and aren't very expensive. AS the motor is only going to run for a moment, maybe heat isn't a factor as long as you don't go crazy - think of starters for instance that'll only work 30 seconds before needing a rest. If you do go this route I suggest you operate well within the current rating of the converters, and either have 2 converters or arrange it so you can easily take it out of circuit just in case of Chinese electronics suffering a premature death.

There is another thread on here with an identical start, that was probably due to 2 injectors needing a service. As said above glow plugs are an easy thing to check too. White smoke can be due to retarded timing, but how would it suddenly retard? That can only be timing belt related.

It'll help too to warm the cans of paint before you use them, as well as the surface you are going to paint.I use a bucket of hot water to warm them. It not only helps the paint, but improves the pressure of the propellant

Hi, sorry to preach, maybe to the converted, but it's vital to check the bores are perfectly clean. Wipe with a white kitchen towel, if it shows dirt, clean again. The hone will leave minute pieces of grit, which won't help your engine if left. It's common to scrub with detergent and water, but maybe that wouldn't suit the crank.

You might also consider where the fuel tank will go. If you are going to put it at the back it will affect the towbar mounts.

Fair enough, thanks.

Hi, Ralph,Sorry about the thread revival, but I am intrigued you are on an agreed value with NFU - they are telling me they don't do that. Can you (or anyone else for that matter) confirm that you have managed to get them to agree a value currently? I deal with the local office and its computer says no.

Have you bought the chassis?

The problem is that as @lo-fi says rings are fitted so that there is a small gap between the ends of the ring when they are cold. As they warm that gap shrinks. If they warm to the point where there is no gap, they can push against the bore walls causing a scuff, and I think he thinks that what you have had happen. What you should do is take the rings off the piston, push each ring into the bore after honing as that will affect the size slightly, and measure the gap between the ends (with feelers). If the gap is too small, it is normal to file the end slightly (and very carefully) to make the gap big enough. In theory with pre-gapped rings the ends will be correctly gapped already, but just in case.... The rocker shafts wear on the underneath - it'll be fairly obvious I think if it has. But... HMRC calls... I know the feeling

The injector/FIP rebuild will probably make a difference to the idle at least.

I must admit I would put a set of big ends in simply because they are relatively cheap and you are in there - I'd also check the rocker shaft for wear, though that is something you can turn over and use the other side. The core plugs would have been changed by Turners; assuming they aren't leaking and you have kept the antifreeze up I would try to leave well alone, but do check them. If you have to change them, you prise them out (knock or drill a hole in the middle and prise from that) and then squarely knock in the new one with a smear of sealant around it (use a socket to spread the load). But it doesn't sound like you'll have an issue with them. I'd check the no.2 oil jet. But yes as above, either change rings on a cylinder and hone that cylinder or do neither. And I would get some running in oil for the initial fill.

Assuming you will hone no.2 but in the light of that do you plan to hone & re-ring the others or just put the other pistons back?