cackshifter

And on mine (a csw) the bullets are inside behind the light cover

Anybody got experience of Ferrex tools? They have brush less cordless angle grinders at the moment. I wonder how good the chainsaw is. The cutting discs do seem ok. Ok I know they originate from the aisle of stuff you don't know you wanted at Aldi and they aren't Milwaukee but if you are 70 you wonder if you need something to last 20 years.

Well, it'll improve the sprung:unsprung weight ratio...

Well the old Michelin X used to last the life of some cars, so making them last isn't a problem. But making them last and grip....driving a set of X's on a barely wet road was a puckering experience.

Everybody will adapt. The scroats will be nicking the motors out of them for copper as they won't have catalytic converters to nick any longer.

I doubt wd40 would hurt a timing belt, small honda engines run with their belt partially immersed in oil, I have a lathe that is similar.

Try swapping the landreiziger relays. If dipped beam goes and main reappears it's a duff main beam relay.

Rawlnuts? I have used them to good effect. They have held a radiator on a hollow wall for 35 years here, and they seem quite strong

The charging aspect is worth considering; I contacted Electricity North West (our friendly local distribution network) re charging points. So on a normal domestic installation here (100A, single phase) you can have one 7kW point. Otherwise it's 3 phase, esp if you want the 22kW ones. But going back to why would you do it, we are just within the GManc emissions zone (postponed at the moment) But I can imagine say a tree surgeon with a 110 towing a chipper for instance might consider (not necessarily do) it. The journeys are fairly local. He needs a bit of offroad capability. Otherwise he needs to buy a new pickup, or pay £10 a day. Most things that are hybrid or electric don't seem to be able to tow as much as the ICE equivalent. The electric Transit is not esp aerodynamic shaped and gets by with a 68kWh battery so 100kWh in a 110 doesn't seem too bad - if you don't need massive range.

Well it was about 50 years since I studied fluid mechanics, and what with inflation, Brexit, the pandemic etc..........

Drag in a fluid used to increase with the square of speed, so 70mph is about twice the drag of 50. Of course there are other things like bearing friction and tyre rolling resistance but at any sensible speed drag is the overwhelming resistance.

Ignoring the technical aspects for a moment, it's probably good there are some conversions being done inasmuch as it establishes the principle of doing it, as possibly there may be moves made to outlaw such changes. There may still be of course!

This may not be relevant to toothed belts but flat belts rely on a crown on the pulleys to keep them in place. The belt centres itself where the highest friction is. Is it possible a slight crowning has worn away? Otherwise it points to a misalignment again.

I had one go in an old type rear door just going along a road. Replaced the door with the new type and the glass went on that with it parked on the drive. Just tired of living I guess.

I think a lot of this conversation assumes there will be a free choice of using electric or ICE. What if not? Or maybe you are only allowed certain mileage or to purchase so many litres of fuel per year? Or maybe oil fuels just become stupidly expensive. Ok this may be surrendering some freedoms but it will be 'for the greater good'. I can see some degree of hybridisation even for existing vehicles might be useful.

And, possibly obviously, if you are changing the timing belt loosen the bolt in the crank nose BEFORE you lock the crankshaft, and take the pin out BEFORE tightening it at the end otherwise you bend the pin

If you can measure the vacuum, the new Unipart one managed 0.65 bar, I have seen more from the Wabco ones. The other points worth looking at are the servo (they crack and leak air), the non return valve (where the hose enters the servo), the vacuum hose, and the O ring between the servo and master cylinder. From what you describe it could also possibly be sticking pistons in the front calipers. If there is little or no vacuum the pedal feels dead as if it has gone solid.

Looks like most of the dust is in one place. No rub marks on the cover I'm assuming.

I take it 300? The Wabco ones are rather expensive and don't seem to last. I bought a Unipart one for rather less, has only been on a year but so far so good, though really too early to tell. I have an electric one waiting to get fitted but you know how it is...

My Dad had a '63 Minx for a while; it was a faithful but sluggish beast even for those times. I have memories of driving an older Minx to the auctions when I worked at a garage, it had 4 speed on the column which was tricky to master and on the way I realised though I was holding the steering wheel rim steady, the car was weaving a bit and the middle of the steering wheel was wobbling, but not the rim. I then noticed the spokes were cracked..... I was pleased to arrive after no sudden steering movements.

Slightly OT, but when I worked for Leyland they tried fitting them to the buses' pneumatic gear change exhaust. Think horse after curry night in the stables when gears were changed.

Are there not also holes in the bottom of the battery box where the clamp attaches? Have you sealed them up? I have replaced the battery box on my 110 and wondered whether there should be some trunking or something leading up to the engine bay/outside as ventilation.

If you have new pads (and/or discs)they will probably not be fully contacting the disc surface across the whole pad - they really need to bed in, esp before stops from 99mph, so hardly surprising the rear left maybe grips a bit better than the rear right. Some pads need to deposit a thin layer of pad material over the disc surface before reaching full efficiency. Maybe try again after a couple of hundred miles? If you don't bed them and use them heavily they can heat the disc unevenly, causing at worst warping of the disc.

Very interesting to get some real world actual experience numbers.

I put heat shrink sleeve over the ends to stop the braid from fraying, I think 7mm from memory, as long as it's a reasonably tight fit the heat of the engine does the final shrinking.