cackshifter

I think licking the bellhousing is a bit extreme I'd just wipe it out. I'm guessing the ball was the problem, maybe moly grease would be better than straight lithium but more would be good. If you put it back, do up some of the bellhousing bolts and fit the slave you could try it out before committing to refitting. Perhaps a smear of something on the spigot and splines too?

That schmoo on the wading plug could have come from the slave; that would be good news if so - well OK it wouldn't but it's the easiest fix.

It's going to be quite hard to diagnose, as once it's apart you can't just press the pedal. I'd make darn sure it isn't something you can get at before taking the engine out, but if there is juddering maybe there is some oil or clutch fluid around. Anything dropping out of the weep hole at the bottom of the bellhousing?

Brittanica Restorations have an improved pivot link. You probably won't need to lift the engine very high to get at the arm, just pull it forward into the space where the radiator normally is. It isn't very hard to get the engine out anyway , and a lot of the work is done from above

I can report, I went for a drive,and it felt awful, but stopped fine. I left it overnight, bled again, and drove again and it felt much better. I have just put LOF pads in, the ones I took out were Ferodo, and both have an antisqueal coating on the back of the pad. When you think, a very small movement at the pistons is highly magnified at the pedal ( the whole point of hydraulics)it isn't so surprising. On the second drive, the pedal felt much better. I am going to leave it and see what happens, it certainly stops ok, it's just the feel.

I have a similar problem, just rebuilt all 4 calipers, new pads and bled everything and the pedal is all spongy. One thing it can be is the back of the pads sometimes has a squishy anti-squeal layer on it, and until the piston has bedded into that there is a bit of give which is magnified at the pedal. I can lock wheels but the pedal feels awful, contemplating a new master cylinder but like yours, it seemed fine before. You are not alone! In fact I suppose one option is clean up the old pads and put them back. If a hard pedal returns we know what it is.

Looking good; one point(and don't know if this applies to Bonda primer) many primers are slightly porous and will absorb water, which isn't good as it gets trapped under the top coat. Best if you don't let it get damp again before a top coat is applied

Bonda primer is pretty good on a clean surface and with a decent top coat but what Mo said above is good advice.

Is that about cooling systems?

Will be handy for lifting the axles

Is that actually wood or just cleverly painted steel?

It just depends what you want. If you happen to live in a low emission zone and you want to be able to keep your classic and exercise it for a few hours at a weekend without being a social outcast, and range isn't very important then it becomes a possibility to consider. Cost isn't always the overriding factor. Any large reservoir of energy can be dangerous if released in an uncontrolled manner. And if you think lithium batteries are dangerous try hydrogen. It's a very small molecule so it can literally get where water can't, it burns with a hot colourless flame and can burn or explode in a wide range of concentrations. It can be ignited by a spark so small it's invisible. NASA has published reams on it. You can even successfully run it in IC engines ( I have) as well as fuel cells, so the V8s can live on but would need conversions again. It needs special handling

There must be a market out there to supply bits for the people that like them and maybe want to get rid of IC power, and yet can't afford their prices. I have wondered if there is also a possibility of hybridisation, maybe off the PTO, as full electric doesn't seem up to handling towing very far yet.

I know ElectricClassicCars have converted at least 2 Defenders and a RRC https://www.electricclassiccars.co.uk/. You can see one of the Defenders(not the new ones) on VintageVoltage which is a Discovery series (I think anyway).

I was really a bit tongue in cheek; I do think it's scary to be finishing work for ever. However the markets being down is also a buying opportunity. Things generally recover in a while, it just depends how long you are able to wait. And knitting is just like welding but with wool? Right?

If you are young and can find some old f##t who hasn't crashed recently, adding them can also bring down premiums

I don't know what you whippersnappers are moaning about, I retire in 40 working days, I'll be 70, and the war cost me over 40k on investment value. I have worked almost 48 years, stopping is a very scary thought

So, it is a bit patinated....

You can try brimming the master cylinder and putting cling film over the opening, then screw the lid on. It relies on being airtight, doesn't always work. You could plug the master cylinder pipe connection once you have removed the pipe, a sealed up short piece of old pipe works, till you are ready to reconnect. You will lose a bit whatever. Or if you are replacing the pipe, cut it and seal the end, leave in place till you are ready to attach the new

They are essentially a transformer with a short circuited single turn secondary. They are very effective, but be warned if you keep on the trigger too long the bit melts. Don't ask me how I know ..

Tree sliders are good when someone opens their door into you with a satisfying clunk in a supermarket car park, and when they apologise you can just say 'No problem at all'

Ashcrofts are offering an adaptor for that engine I believe linky

If you decide to uprate the alternator, some of the marine ones have impressive specs, remember to make alternative arrangements for vacuum for the brakes, the pump is part of the alternator

I am no metallurgist, but like you discovered electrolytic rust removal, and came upon embrittlement as a potential hazard. The gist is, hydrogen is produced at the surface of the metal by the electrolysis and can be absorbed into the metal, making it brittle. That process can be reversed by heating the part after to drive out the hydrogen, or just waiting, as I recall a couple of weeks is enough. That said, I ignored that, and have had no issue, but have never used it on something crucial. Google is your friend, there is plenty to read about it.

One thing to be aware of is it can cause hydrogen embrittlement. I have to say at the pace at which I work that hasn't been an issue, it would have dispersed before the paint goes on. Might be a issue for something like a hub.