TD Man

Ok, so pic 1 is the donner body, and no its not LR OEM, its a 110 cab chassis that has been coach-built in NZ. Pic 2-3 is the proposed door cut, not sure if I need to go to the top line or not as yet. Pic 4 is just a reference shot. Pic 5 is the proposed wheel arch end point, meaning the front edge of the wheel arch. the nail is about it. Pic 6 is the donner chassis. Hope that sheds some light on things. TD

Hoping this works...

So this looks to have the rear door cut down on the front end leaving the rear standard. I was thinking I would cut the wheel-arch into the door as per disco/RR. No there is not much space but I think I can work around that in part by moding the rear of the front seat box so feet can fit under the front seats as per disco. Anyway if I can gets some pics up I'll be away. TD

Wow... That is amazing Yea I was impressed with a 127 I worked on years ago, it was a 110 with a bit welded in and had mig wire hanging on all over the place. TD

Snagger, Your right, what I did not say was that this is stage 1 of my build and the overhang will be attended to but not at this point. I measured the chassis and it is 95' not the 90' I had thought. Pics to come! TD

Hi all, sorry for the delay, I have had a busy week with a job to export so no time projects. Anyway, what I was thinking was to bring the wheel arch under the seats and into the foot-well if required. I will lift the seats up a little so the wheel is under as per the rear seats in a 110 county. I will get some pics this tomorrow and see what I reckon. I will try to post them... but we'll see how that goes. If I can pull it off the rear will still have a 110 overhang as the chassis was factory 110. TD

So I have a 110 that has been shortened to 90ish and am going to fit my double cab body onto it. Has anyone done this? I had a look but couldn't find any info. I know LR did a defender 100" proto so "how hard can it be!"...Haha, I may have to cut my way in and weld my way out My one is an NZ oddball with a steel rear body so bodywork is easy for me to weld. Any observations / opinions are very welcome TD

Bill, Have you had any further thoughts on this concept you floated? I was looking at a SII gearbox today in the shed and it got me thinking... If you used the trans box as above but flipped the axle to face the rear to increase prop-shaft length this mite alleviate the size issue presented by the trans. Also, slightly OT but, if you had an 8x8 and drive the rear axles (diff facing forwards) through the top of a drop box, could you then drive the 2nd axle from the diff nose of the 3rd, so axles 2,3,4 would all be driven together and axle 1 would be driven from the front prop as per standard? just a passing thought. TD

Red, Only that its an option used by others, not that its a good one. Not trying to impress with the clip. TD

Very heavy! But looks cool.

Thanks Bill, That is what I was wondering but did not know, I will (and have) looked into the axles but again it seems to be a right place right time sort of thing with some of this. I will keep looking and have a friend with a Nissan he is wrecking so will look into that to. TD

Ok, So drive-line. I am thinking I would like to split the drive after the hand brake and run a shaft to the rear axle right of the chassis, I will be on the farm on sunday and will have a look then as to the reality of this. I will also check the other landy and see if I can use its chassis as it is already shortened and has a cert, I just need to check the room for fitting a body on it. Bill, I was thinking of using a chain drive box as opposed to the gear drive box you built, what are your thoughts on this and the position? Thanks, TD

Nice work mate!

I agree but finding them is the issue here. I have looked on ebay but there must be better places to try. In NZ you can import a vehicle over 20 years old without any major drama but any newer and there is a ban on it up till 2 years old. I would look to bring in a Volvo if possible but I don't know what I'm looking at and would need to do some homework. Our Army use the Pinz 6x6 but no parts are on the open market as yet. Suspension is the big one, I have contemplated using pneumatic cylinders to replace the springs, this would mean load sharing, ride hight adjustment, the ability to lift an axle, tilt the cab or lock the cylinders so the hold the same position to reduce body roll on the road. The only issue would be seal life but I would probably only drive it twice a month.

270:1, I'm impressed, is that one of your creations?