MECCANO

Thank Stephen that would be a massive help, I've just remeasure and the brushes are not far off your dims I should be able to make them work even if they need a bit of shimming. I'll drop you a p'm, you'll have to let me know what I owe you. After seeing what you repaired I'm suddenly less worried about the end cap. 😄 On the plus side the gearbox end doesn't seem to bad, just need a clean and fresh grease. Has any one tried to refurb the warn solenoids, or is it just not worth the effort? Chris

I think you win on the crustyness, I haven't got a great pic of the brushe as internally, but it looks like they are the same as yours. Cheers Stephen

In my wisdom / youth I brought a second hand "Working" Warn XD9000i. After 15 years I thought it's probably time to get it fitted. Anyway long story short I'm a gullable fool, the motor resembles the Titanic with a disentigrated brush fused to the contacts, knackered bearings and a holey end cap! I think it's salvageable and I really don't want to buy a new motor, but as a minimum I'll need to replace the front and rear bearings which seem to be 6203 and 6202. But the brush I'm stumped. Warn seem to want to sell you the entire brush and bearing support housing for the price of a motor. I've been looking around for something that might work as a substitute but not having much luck. The brushes seem to measure 20mm wide x 10mm deep x 20mm tall. I've found a few dc motors (starter, marine, dynamo brushes that come with similar dimensions.) But was hoping that some one might know of another winch brushes that could be retrofitted. The warn design seems pretty crummy, in the early versions it appears to have separate brushes that are individually maintainable, but on this the brushes are combined with a bearing support, and if you have an issue the are soldered directly to a copper bar. Any ideas / suggestions welcome. As long as they don't involve confessing to the wife I brought a dud!

Let me be the first to say the 9f builds require a thread!

Totally agree, on parts these small id just bang the fill up and make them solid. But if you got proper adhesion and a thick enough wall it's not going to be an issue. 40hr part 40% fill. No delamination.I could stand on the thing on its edge, and I'm 15 stone. .. and it's only pla. Oh and it holds water

From what i've read, it seems ABS filament seems to have okay uv resistance due to some witch craft. and the joy of printing is you can just print a batch and repalce them every few years. I havent tried printing ABS yet, but i plan to in the coming months. if you can wait i an give it a crack, Just need some fag packetry dimensions.

Only thing i'll add to the Lexus bunfight, they are getting very spendy these days as the drifters love slapping turbos on them. Rear sump is going to cost you serious wonga. There are people doing the flange to make your own. but i'm sure a man of your caliber could sort his own.

Apparently I'm not allowed to take both cars.. I will beg for forgiveness. It seems to be the 2 ton capacity model. Probably a stretch to get this road legal 🤣

If he wants to experience the complete opposite, I think mine fits the glove. Just spent the last half hour looking up if the wife's sante fe has the towing capacity. Can't remember the last time I took the Lwt properly off road.

Damn, looks like I need to sort my act out and add to the light weight count. Thanks for sharing the vids and pics👍 looks like a great time was had by all.

Probably onto the next project. The Mans a Machine. I would say hopefully he's out breaking things so this thread doesn't conclude, but i doubt its actually breakable!

What a beast! 👍

Looks spot on, i may have to borrow your design for my own 😁 Personally i quite like the idea of ali checker plate riveted to the top.

Looking forward to seeing this evolve 👍 If you need any measurements for a rapier chassis just shout.

No other word than Epic. I think you have really nailed the width of the axles. looks spot on! 👍 Can't wait to see this in action.

That's really smart 👍

Surely this deserves some sort of medal. Just out interest, what tent it that Mike?

This isn't solely aimed at Stephen, more the collective and their thoughts. I thought the issue was more around the added leverage genrated by the drop boxes. Increasing wrap/twist. Wouldn't unsprung weight only become an issue during extremes of articulation or if you were going to pretend you were in the Dakar. Or am I missing something. I figured you could help with the wrap issue by raising the top mount point of the a frame ball joint. Or by replicating a radius arm setup (like the front) to relieve the forces on the a- frame joint. But then you would need a watts setup like a d2. Then again I don't remember seeing the maxidrive bolt on boxes having issues. However I don't think they had as much drop as the mog axles. Preparing to be shot down...

So I'm guessing from the level of reinforcement going into this chassis, you wouldn't recommend some one bolting portals to standard chassis, even if it's new?

He's decided to slam it instead, and go full hotrod.

Great to hear... But don't think we will allow you to take your foot of the gas 😁

Outstanding. Apologies if you have already mentioned it, are you doing any reinforcement work to the a-frame mountings or are they already made of oil rig? I'm guessing the mog axles put most of their leverage into the A frame? or do the chassis mounts also take a hammering hence the 10mm? Chris

Yes , retire so you can build axles full time... Can you do mine first? 😄 I can feel myself turning green with envy. If i had half your skills i would be a happy man. Now i Just need to convince the wife mog axles are a sound investment.

I'll let you know, ill be using it to replace the Mems on the t16. As for expense. i think speeduino has a long way to go before it gets to the price of MS. the kit for the board was only about £80. Admittedly it was some time ago.

Disappointed you haven't wittled these from a oak you felled before your morning brew. Just not good enough.