MECCANO

unless mo ventures that way, Im probably the closest. (hemel hempstead). Would give me an excuse to take the bike out for a blast!

The glory days. pre-kahn obsession too.

very tidy. 👍

Was this the old cosi engine one?

Anymore progress?

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I've got to replace the cam seals, and water pump (cambelt driven) so i think i will use the opportunity to replace the lifters and give it a general spruce up. I'll take a few pics when i do, i lost most my conversion photos to photobucket.

Guys, Looking for some advice. Its not the norm, but the rover t16 in the lightweight has got an intermittent sticking valve. Some days fine, otherdays sounds like a type writer. Can it really be cured without stripping the head down ( with additives etc) or is it just a pipe dream, and i just accept i need to get the spanners out. Its a modern style dohc with hydrualic tappets, if you havent seen this engine in the flesh. Cheers Chris

Any updates? 😁

There ended up being a bit of a barny on Facebook . The guy claimed it was being sold as display purposes etc. Nothing in the Add said that. Looking at the company site, they have been trying to sell it since june/july last year. Built in 3 weeks... No Sh#t! You can tell. All the focus on "blinging it up". Literal demonstation of polishing a turd.

You'll give HFH a run for his money. Loving this build!

Are you narrowing the rear, or just clocking it for better prop alignment? Whats the plan with the front, are you flipping the case of cutting each side off the housing and swapping over? I guessing no ones tried to lighten te these axle by removing the inner tube. probably more hassel than its worth. i did wonder as an alternative to flipping the case upside down if you coud cut the diff pan off, machine the front face to take the diff, and weld a new pan on the old back.

It doesnt appear to have any brake lines on the back axle either. i guess thats to stop it ripping off. Who needs bushes or proper radius arms when box section will do... 🤠

https://themarket.co.uk/listings/land-rover/defender-6x4/09e5480d-d2e6-46f4-a1cf-b8f877305bed?status=live Err check out the axle trailing arms mount.... I'm not sure how they thought that was a good idea. Scary.

Unfortunately never had the luck of owning them. Relistically i can only see unimog axles as an option, but the gearing is just a bit low for my everyday use between playdays. Unless some c303's mistically cross my path at a resonable price. I'll have to live the dream through others!

I feel empty without portals, keep up the slog. Is a d2 setup much better over stock defender, im guessing the d2 has a better swing?

Turbo C, So when you say they p38 springs are more like a commercial vehicle spring, could you fit a rear bag and piston to a front top hat?

Just realised this post is redundant. Wes has already overed it... but heres some more picks anyway EAS setup on a range rover class twin shock setups that would do similar in a bolt on fashion (personally not a fan of the bot on bracket)

Thanks for the offer Mike, but the wife has decided she fancies the chalenge of getting data out of landrover. Shes seen some one get data from mazda so recons its worth a try. I contacted Richards last week, looks like d-day is the end of the month, later than previosly planned but im not ready for it anyway. This has kicked the tear down of the 110 into gear.

Thanks Mike, i really appreciate that. The london restriction has crossed my mind as i live just outside the M25, but i cant remeber the last time i drove in. The project is more about getting away from the big smoke, and i don't think they would appreciate my Cayonero! The donor vehicle is 1985 110 SW with an awesome 2.5 n/a diesel 😱 i have yet to coax back to life, then change out for something more civilised post test. I would have loved to have dropped the 200tdi i have in the garage, but i have no reciept for it, and theres still the issue of manufacturers emission proof. I believe you used the engine directly from your donor defender too? I could alter my plans to extend the passenger area (extended doube cab) proportional to the rear load bed, but again i would probably change post test. The M1 manual states : At the request of the applicant a vehicle with at least 4 seats and a load area not exceeding 40% of the length of the vehicle To be on the safe side, this may mean i cant just extend the cab, i would have to make sure the seats sit back as far as possible to ensure the area behind isn't classed as additional load area. Generally the main cab will be standard defender, which seems to be lacking side repeaters and non floppy seats to comply. The chassis will be a new richards ( arriving shortly) that is mildly longer. The rear end a more elegant tray back of my own concoction. The first headache seems to be reciept/ invoice issues. From what i've read i only need proof for major components, but other forums claim having them for every nut and bolt. Fortuantely the majority of parts will be from the donor, new or fabricated. My interpretation of major components would be those defined in the points systems, but im probably wrong. I recently pruchased a fuel tank from what appear to be a reputable breakers, but have been unable to get a reciept out of them. Which now makes me think its probably dodgy, and now stuffed on paper work from the-off. Cheers Chris

Has anyone had an experience with passing a vehicle as a N1 (light goods vehicle) Instead of the M1 cars category. My next project is unlikely to meet the M1 category due to the length of the load bed, without much Headaches and witchcraft. So for ease I was wondering if its easier to simply follow the N1 route, but wondered if it has more complications down the road, tax, insurance, Lez, Ferry crossings, trips to the moon etc. As far as I see it, it would just be like owning a van. Thanks in advance. Chris

The only way I can see to do it is to create a frame that has an external lip that slots into the hole from the out side. Your window secured internally using a set of over center toggle clamps ( with a rubber foot). https://www.protex.com/toggle-clamps

Not with out a whole world of pain! I moved the engine 100mm forwards on my 88 and ended up with a 45cm rear prop ( off the top of my head). There was couple of inches between the front cross member and front of the 2.25/tdi. I ran around like this for a couple of years before I dropped in the t16. This was with a LT230.

Fridge, i'm pretty sure you used defender gearbox mounts on yours which lifts the box up higher than a series. Jericho Used defender gearbox mounts positioned at the stock series gearbox height, and they stuck out bellow the chassis rail.

R380 without coiler axles sounds like a whole world of pain. I presume your using an LT230, and the engine in the stock location? Make sure your can actually get the front prop to the axle without scalloping the gearbox cross member to extinction. Pro-comp sell wedges. but they aren't great in my opinion.

The stock figure is 200bhp and a similar torque curve to a 3.9 v8, on about 11psi of boost. Mines cranked up to 14.5psi with a larger cooler and 2.5 inch exhaust. Most that have these mods seem to achieve around 225bhp. I do have a t28 turbo in the garage but the pistons and ecu will stop you going much further. If you can get m series pistons or replace with forged and replace the ecu with squirt you could achieve 270 before needing to spend much on the bottom end.