AndyO

My link VWP do a heated rear window timed relay that may be of help - and is a touch cheaper than the Land Rover one!!

Hope you were not doing what I did once and trying to undo it the wrong way I now have left and right written on my hands!

These guys have something other than the bolt on bits one's My link

I do have the rubber strip, however its old/original. Maybe I should try a fresh one and see if it makes a difference. Interesting idea about notching / welding the pins - just wish I could weld!! Speaking of that - I could do with replacing one of those pins anyway as it's fairly nasty. Are these just a standarf theaded rod or are they specific somehow? Does anyone know a part number? Ta

Hi there, I've got a soft top 90 and have fitted some series doors/tops. I've got the passenger side to fit quite nicely, however the drivers side is a pain in the posterior. Basically the door top leans out when the door is closed giving a gap between the door top and the windscreen pillar (that is where it is worst). I originally fitted a plastic shim underneath each hinge part, then tried removing them. There appears to have been no difference between what I had and what I have got now (gap wise). Does anyone have any hints as to how to position the door/hinge WRT shims etc. Do I just need to get a few more and try with a couple of shims under each hinge? Cheers for any advice. (p.s. or should I just fill the gap with silicon sealent and go whistle!! )

humph - I figured it would fail the MOT on that!! Further issues appear to be the horn is not working. I checked the fuse but that is fine (fuse does horn, int light and full beam!) I changed the stalk last year (maybe the year before - I am getting lost with time!) as it was failing intermittently. I'm pretty sure the replacement was Britpart (bought before I discovered that Britpart were a pile of **** [self censoring]). I got it from paddocks anyway, so probably is. I guess it all points to the stalk being knackered!!! Ta for your help

success I have done re connected the blue and red with each's original wire (thank goodness I accidentally cut them different lengths!! Then I have bridged the two sections of the relay holder and I now have functioning headlights. However!! Headlights come on when switch moved forward. Headlights flash when stalk is pulled Headlights do not come one for full beam (pushing the stalk away). The stalk should be fine as I changed that originally when I was chasing the fault!! Any ideas what I need to do, and will that fail the MOT!! Ta so far

Cheers for the link - I had not seen that one! Problem - In the mean time I have actually tried cutting the wires (the two blue and red ones which from your written bit of the reply suggests I was right) and joining them together - still no headlight working!?! The two positions that are coloured one the diagram relate to one of the blue and red wires and the plain blue wire (on my relay block anyway) Should I be joining one of the blue/red wires & the plain blue one? the link suggests bridging in the relay holder (with spade terminals I guess). Would this make a big difference (i.e. will the lights work with joined like that?) I would have thought the other wires would not have made any difference without the relay plugged in?? yours confused! p.s. will update sig!

Doh - sorry, I forgot that your car is not listed on the left on this site!!! I've got a 1993 (K reg), 200tdi defender 90.

hi all, This is kind of a follow on from a question asked awhile back and but I didn't actually do anything with the replys!! (got distracted with other supposedly more important things!!) My headlights are acting kind of funny and it was diagnosed as a dim dip problem. Back when I asked I was told about the dim dip unit being a black box with fins. Anyway - I don't have one of those - I've got a pink relay (7 pin) and a gold resistor on the drivers side, inner wing (hidden near the brake servo). I understand from reading elsewhere that I just have to just cut two wires and join them together. Is this correct? and if so which wires (I can guess but would probably be wrong) The wires are; Blue/Red (x2) White Black Red Brown/Green (I think but it may be the other way round!) and a blue one. I would guess that the two blue/red wires need joining but I will probably be wrong! And do I need to disconnect the resistor, and what about connecting those two wires? Any help appreciated as it's MOT time on weds!! Ta Andy

Wereabouts would that resistor be? I've had the pass wing off & apart before and I don't have one (and the above pic looks like that area). I've heard mention of the dim/dip relay before. is it just a case of pulling the connectors out of it, or do the two ends (so to speak) need to be connected. Ta

Doh - I actually thought I had filled in the Location bit (I've seen enough other people told off for it!!) Will go and update it now. Western - thank for the suggestion. Would this be likely to affect both headlights?

Hi Guys, Sorry to resurect an older post but don't want to start a new topic for the same thing! Finally got time and fitted a new switch - no change in circumstances! The headlights still both go out completely when selecting main beam. Any suggestions as to what would affect both sides? Ta

2 for the switch eh. Will have to check that out. the fuses all seem OK so... I have had to replace the rear fog switch & the indicator stalk before so it would make sense that the light selector is going out as well. Maybe I should change the screen wash/wiper stalk while I'm at it!!! At least it gives me an excuse to align my steering wheel properly! (I've been living with it 1 notch out for too long!) Ta

Hi All, First off - Defender 200tdi (just before switch over to 300tdi) Right - got a confusing problem going on with my headlights for the defender. This seems to have happened since having a roll cage fitted just before christmas (however I cannot guarantee that there was not a problem before!) When I push the light selector to 'side light' position, the side lights do not come on however the main lights come on at ~half power (dim dip thingy?) The main headlights flash when pulling the stick back (as normal) but do not stay on when pushing the stick forward (I don't know if this is normal as I have never tried it on side lights only!) When I push the light selector switch full forward (main beam not full beam) The headlights go out, but the side lights come on. Then the full beam selector works in both directions (flash & fully on). So, any ideas from the group. Earth wire got dislodged somewhere, could the dim dip part of everything have gone tit's up? Some wireing got fried during welding? I pulled the fuses but they all seemed fine. I've had a quick wobble of wires but as its cold and not a priorety I have not investigated fully yet! Cheers Andy

Hi All, Driving along this morning my dash lights for 'ABS' 'TC' & the hill descent with exclamation mark illuminated and stayed lit. Does anyone know what this means? and what the problem might be? Ta

I've always been told to get Timken bearings. £7 from paddocks (I think). Other mail order shops are available. Depends what you have been up to, but if a bearing has gone that quickly I would guess that something else might be wrong.

Ta very much for that - I will give it a go.

I have just had the clutch changed on my 90 (200tdi). a Vaelo unit was fitted with assoc bearings & a new release arm etc. I had changed the master & slave cyls last year? maybe the year before. Anyway, the question is, the bite point seems very low (about an inch from the floor). is this right? I've never had a new clutch in a car before so don't know what I was expecting - but it jsut seems too sudden. Can any of you learned people suggest if this is normal or not. Thanks in advance Andy

I think that my ACE sytem on the disco has started leaking. I had to top up the resevior & have noticed a small spot on the car park. Need to get under and check properly this weekend (thanks going to be ufun in december!), however does anyone know if there is a common problem with the ACE that can cause it to leak, (and therefore might be fixable), or is it leaking, therefore buggered, therefore more expensive! Ta Andy

Hi, I have these at home (somewhere - think I know where). I will have a look for them tonight and should be able to scan & email them tomorrow (assuming no one else beats me to it!).

Hi, can you advise on whether this unit significantly blocks the airflow from the windscreen vents, and also would it be possible to take a pic of the gap between the unit and the steering wheel as this seems to be avoided on the website. Ta

Gutted for you. I down the road in Chilwell, and live just south of Nottingham so will keep eyes peeled. Any pics to help? fingers crossed

I had to change the clutch master as one of the first job when I got my 90 a couple of years ago. I used the Haynes manual and all seemed to go ok (famous last words!!) anyway - I had to change my slave cylinder at the same time as (my thoughts anyway...), the new cylinder overwhelmed the old slave. (when they were both old the pressure was not as great cause the master was leaking!!) Does that make sense!! be prepared if your slave cyl is old as well. all might be ok, but.... wouldn't want you to be caught out (esp if its your only driver!!)

Hi Guys, Thanks for the replys. My car does start most of the time - however occasionally it will just not turn over, but then next turn of the key it starts fine. The red colour of the wire is what had me mostly confused!! as said - if it were an earth wire surely it would be black! I had the wing off a while ago (after a little oopsy!) so had a good look around but could not see where it may have attached too originally. Its not like it has a massive reach so there was only a small search area!!