GB75

Steve Thanks for your reply, I had kind of realised thats what had to happen but its nice to have it confirmed for sure. cheers GB

I get the impression that nobody knows if I can extract the locking nut/ adjuster hex screw by winding it out of the top plate then eh?

Good news! glad to hear its nothing serious and lets face it who hasn't had somthing similar happen to them over the years? the main thing is that it won't ever catch you out again and thanks to this thread many others shouldn't get caught out by the big red safety key either (We all know for next time!)

well yes VB I know that but I want to know if I can remove the lock nut from the steering box to get the hot spanner on it. and its a 6mm hex screw not torx, its also rounded out so will need a replacement

No worries, I hope thats what it turns out to be. I was so chuffed thats what mine was! I had visions of touching my toes having had to hold my hands up and call an auto sparks in! such a relief when it tuned out to be so simple.

Hello all, I'm looking for a little advice re the steering box adjustment screw on the top ot the four bolt steering box on my 110. I have slackened of the 19mm locking nut but the 6mm alan grub screw is seized solid in the centre of it. and as always with alan keys application of a bit of pressure its also now rounded out. so my question is can the whole fitting be removed as the locking nut seems reluctant to come out all the way and I don't want to mulla it and then find out its got some sort of retainer under the cover plate beneath. Also here is a pic of the said item. has anybody had to replace the centre grub screw? and if so does anyone have a part number for it ? Thanks in advance! (ps I cant belive that having owned land rovers for twenty years this is the first time I've ever had to tinker with the steering!)

I once had the very same thing hapen to my defender 110 200Tdi. Drove home from work parked up went out at 5 am to go back to work nothing no dash lights nadda! so having got a taxi to work and a lift home that night i took out the instument pannel and found the main feed wire to the ignition had popped of its spade terminal I pushed it back on and hey presto back to normal! I also taped the bugger up good and tight before I put the dash back in! and its been good as gold ever since. must be ten years or more now!! Have a look and see. Hope thats all it is.

Try bateson's of marple, Bateson is a family firm who make trailers to your spec and have excelant after sales sevice I bought my 16 ft X 6ft6" plant trailer from them brand new in 1996 and its still going strong and unlike Ifor's they don't bend under the strain of a bit of graft. nor (sorry series drivers) do they ride on shaged out old cart springs! like toyota hilux's which crack when you put a mini digger on there back. like my mates ifor did last year. twas only a 3 tonner too! Ifor Williams do make exceadingly good stock canopys however!

I agree, I used easy start to start my 220 Cummins diesel engine without any detremental effects. On the plus side it saved buying starter motors. As long as the engine is spinning over and only a little is used then it's OK My engine used to start instantly on a little easy start and had done close on 200,000 miles when I sold it. The reason it was used was to save the battery and the starter as big old diesels were bad starters. also Cummins would provide a pump to pump in easy start if the buyer requested it. In the seventies, the Ford transit with the York engine also had a pump on the dash to pump in easy start . I think it is a fault with the glow plugs (never use easy start and glow plugs together BTW) Ah sounds like the old 12.2 NTK 220 cummins, Atki / ERF ect ? what ever the problem they had with that they solved it with the 14 ltr and the 290 big cam 10ltr which are bulit proof. I don't know much about CMC engines, But I dout they do an easy start aplicator kit for the intake manifold. Here is the question (put to me by an old diesel fitter). "How the f**K can a lump of iron become addicted to somthing?" He was of the opinion that dodgy batterys, bad wiring, knackerd heater plugs, carp compretion and poorly set up timing could cause poor starting. and unless these problems where solved then you would continue to need to give it a wiff of the yellow can first thing in the morning PERIOD! He may be right? You never here owners of Gardner 6LXB's or 200Tdi's needing a wiff of over Easy even on the coldest winter morn.

PS 300Tdi numbers are in the same place and on the defender begin with 16L.

Also main numptee question - how do you tell the difference between a 200tdi and the 300tdi engines? Dead easy once you know, open bonnet look just below rocker cover on the front of the engine for large alloy cylindrical spring loaded belt tentioner if it has one its a 300tdi.

I'm new here so treading carefuly, I will say this, asuming it is a diesel and therefore it's the heater plugs you've replaced. have you also cheaked the wireing? cos the plugs are only as good as the wires that feed em. if not try testing them with an inteligent probe. that way you can put posi and neg through the system. just a thought. hope it helps.