RatCav

Bonnet opens fine and dandy. The horn even works. Problem is the horn works too well. At this rate I might be rewiring the horn so it bypasses the BECM.

1996 HSE 4.6 V8 Gems. if that helps Grill removal is no issue. Just a couple of screws. I also have long arms just in case.

Awesome .. when it gets back from the Midlands (later this week) I will disconnect it and see what happens.

Hi there. Been searching for a while for answers but nothing definitive.I have a phantom horn issue. Central locking works fine with the key/button.Horn works if you press it.Good (new) battery.Changed the steering wheel coupler.Changed the horn relay.Taken the wheel off and cleaned/adjusted the buttons to make sure they don't short.Horn has a mind of its own. Now for the oddity. Today while looking it was switched off and the horn was silent. Shut the bonnet and the horn blipped. Stood there for a couple of seconds. Shut the car up and locked the door. Went to walk away and then the horn went off. When it goes off it won't stop unless you pull the fuse/relay.I tried looking for a bonnet switch for the alarm but couldn't find anything.Starting to do my nut in. Added complication there isn't anyone local that I trust (Preston) with a diagnostic. Short of having my arm ripped off by the Dealer.Any ideas.

Swapped accumulator and system works fine and dandy. Lights go out almost immediately on startup. Just got to find the dodgy ABS sensor now. Cheers for the help peeps.

That's about it .. suspicions confirmed. Cheers.

Hi there Been doing lots of reading and cross referencing and I think I know the answer, but would like to confirm. ABS and Traction control light will always stay on a while after start up (30+ secs or so). I can hear a pump going for it from under the hood (could be either the suspension or brake pump .. not sure as both fitted and both plugged in). While the lights are on the pedal is soft and not much braking is had even with the foot to the floor. When lights go off the truck brakes on the button (new pads and disks all round and calipers cleaned and greased). Every now and then the pedal will go softer, and sometimes the ABS/TC lights come on and the brake pedal is so soft it will go to the floor at the slightest touch and little/no braking will happen. I can hear a pump going on/off all the while the truck is running. As said I am unsure if it is the EAS or brake pump. Haven't looked that far. Am I right this is early signs the brake accumulator is on its way out? Cheers Neal

Ok .. flipped the propshaft so the sliding yoke is transfer box end and took it for a blast. No more vibration. How weird is that. You would of thought being balanced it wouldn't matter. Anyway problem solved. Also I can thoroughly recommend the propshaft bolt removal tool.

Headgasket ... ... joking

Which of these readings was with the engine running?

So in short. Everything was working fine. had bulkhead changed and the heater would drop out on low voltage. After investigating battery and alternator were duff and now replaced. Charger was also duff and replaced. Heater still cuts out on low voltage. If new charger plugged in then heater works fine. I would say that there is an earthing issue leading to enough of a drop in voltage to make the heater cut out randomly. When you connect the charger it gives it just enough juice to overcome it. Seeing as it started when the bulkhead was changed I would be looking there for the wires that go through the bulkhead and then trace then to make sure the connections are solid and the wires haven't been left to chafe on the edges of the holes where the cables go through the new bulkhead. You might find that they are damaged ever so slightly to cause a short.

Live axle is a type of beam axle? I thought a live axle was a beam axle that can provide drive, and a dead axle is a beam axle that doesn't provide drive.

Keep forgetting live front axle .. never had one of those before. Also having offset rear diff makes things easier in case I need to remove the rear one..

It was a brand new complete shaft fitted by the dealership as the old one was vibrating :/ All I did was unbolt it from the transfer box and front diff. Looks like a job for the weekend .. thank you for your time. Does beg the question why it needs to bet that way round though.

Recently recovered from explosive gearbox and torque converter syndrome. All fitted and now pulls like a train. So so smooth and responsive. However .... (here comes the noob question) ... I am now suffering from a vibration that starts around 70mph and get worse as the speed picks up. It is definitly speed related not engine revs related (thank christ as that rules out the new box and torque converter I have just replaced). I did however have a brain melt moment when fitting the front propshaft. I think I have fitted it the wrong way round. I think I put the sliding yoke (grease nipple) end closest to the front diff. I am assuming this is wrong looking at some posts. Also the manual says that you should mark the propshaft before removing it. Is this to make sure the prop is fitted the right way round, or do you have to align it radially as well? Apologies for the stupidness. RatCav P.S. I will get to know these trucks at some point