d-9

2 months later - freelander is still working fine. High pressure pump has solved the issue, was £200 for a refurb pump.

I swapped out the high pressure pump, pretty easy job with the special tool, took about 3.5 hours. Since then the car has done about 100 miles, with no sign of the fuel issue it was having. It hasn’t done 90minutes straight, so cant say if it will have the same issue that yours has, but so far its looking positive.

Did you get any further with this Worcester? I've got a freelander with the same issue. Changed the sensor today, no difference. Tested the sensor from the ecu connector with scope, all seems fine and in spec. Low pressure side is showing 3.5-3.7bar. When it goes into limp mode, I'm seeing a big gap between requested and actual pressure, requested typically 1200bar actual typically 800bar. At this point I think it's either the high pressure pump or the regulator.

Thor runs motronic? Any ideas which version?

This seems fairly typical for rebuilt transmissions, the three I've seen from a major uk supplier have lasted 2 weeks, 3 months and 4 years (but with teeth coming out every oil change from 1 year).

Blocked tank breathers? I dropped a tank off a trooper on sunday which wasnt running over 1500rpm, because a breather had snapped off the top of the tank and it couldnt pressurise the tank with the fuel return, seemed like an odd setup, but blocking the hole made it run properly again.

Also got a p30, still really learning how to use it, not going to replace the grinder for me - I like the nice straight cuts you get with a 1mm disc, but for finishing off cutting holes, cutting awkward shapes and chopping off rusty boots, it's fantastic. It's probably had the most use on bolts and stuff lately, just because it works in such a tight space and no risk of cutting nearby lines/hoses/wires.

Just be careful of the innards, theyre highly toxic and carcinogenic. I've seen suggestions on other sites to put a broom handle up the cant and beat it until the innards come out, this is a really bad plan!

Flukes are very nice but massive overkill. I have one because I love wiring and can afford it, but as long as a meter has a beep function, resistance and volts, it will do the job fine. In most cases with vehicles, accuracy isn't totally crucial, it doesn't much matter if the volts is out by 0.1, most of the time I want to know if it's live and if it's 6v 10v 12v or 14v, not if its 12.2 or 12.3v. i agree it matters more for ecu sensors and is crucial for canbus diagnostics, but that doesn't seem like the focus for the OP. Cheap multimeter and a power probe

Get an auto-ranging one. I keep one of these in my portable tool kit, very good but of kit. First one lasted 5 years before I destroyed the cables. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/3-in-1-autoranging-multimeter-with-non-contact-detector-n73bz I compliment it with one of these in the workshop,it's overkill but nice: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluke-115-Multimeter/dp/B0011D6O0A For vehicle electrics, a power probe is very handy, doesn't quite replace a meter, but is better and easier to use for a lot of jobs: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000R9Y35C I'd buy the £13 meter and a power probe over w £30 meter for car stuff

I think that is a fairly good response from LR, they didn't say no, they told you the process for getting it sorted. Are clutch MCs that big a job on defenders? On my series I could change the MC in less time than writing a letter to landrover.

I was having lots of issues in the workshop, deployed 3 bait boxes with a bunch of poison granules, all mess has stopped. Unfortunately The Owl lives over where my landrover is parked, which makes quite a mess, but its an owl, so I'll just park 8ft further forward in future.

Everything Landrover is listed on 192 and Thomson local as being on the same business park as the companies mentioned in that article from 2013. Going on the companies database Edward Samuel Barrington and Edward Samuel Fear were both born in May 1990: https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/8WeLSMXJJnrB2CGk8VDFF1DbViQ/appointments https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/yk6x7I2yMPgpmmfieUolG7eIDbg/appointments Edward Barrington is listed as a director for Everthing Landrover Ltd, as a mechanic at Red 4x4 Ltd and a director at Sober ltd - all based at 10 or 12 New Dunn Business Park. Looking at Sober Ltd, you also come across Carl Shackleton, who is listed as a director at 3 other business at 12 New Dunn Business Park: ASO Box Ltd SOFEAR Ltd Ministry 4x4 Ltd

What is the best option for adding a locker to a series? Is there a sensible upgrade to 24 spline without swapping axles, or does it limit you to ARBs?

I would look at using a Windows 8/10 tablet not a laptop.

Pour some regular oil down the spark plug/heater holes, not too much. Turn it over by hand to distribute it, basically enough to sit on the top ring and stop it rusting to the bore, and enough to coat the inside of the bores. Store it somewhere dry. TBH, you dont need to get carried away, Ive picked up lots of engines that have been stored for years and fitted them to some vehicle or other, no issues due to them being laid up. Fairly sure none of them had any TLC before being laid up.

Really dont want lots of pressure, just 'enough'. With a sharp drill bit it wants just enough pressure to bite, you should get nice spirals of the metal you are cutting off it. Any more pressure and you will increase the friction on the bit, increasing the temperature, which then will overheat the drill, cause it to soften and loose its edge, then you might as well be poking it with a cotton bud not a drill bit.

This ^^. Plus cutting oil and cobalt drill bits. Dont apply too much pressure, just enough to hold the drill on the work piece, drill slowly, keep the bit cool with cutting oil. Too much speed or pressure and you will overheat and blunt the bit. I've drilled 10mm holes in 12mm steel plate using a 10.8v battery drill before, no drama with the right bits and technique.

Yes. I quite regularly see car parts going for more than you can buy them for at a main dealer, retail. Cant remember the last time I saw a genuine bargain on ebay. Possibly my T4.

Never seen any associated documentation to explain why a given vehicle is on a Q, although the rules say that is for 'uncertain identity', so I would assume it's failed a VIC, has missing or modified plates, etc. Of course lots of ex military stuff is on a Q, just because that's how they handled it for a few years. Doing the test sounds so easy when you write it like that, but I suspect the reality is a lot more awkward. However this seems like something that a lot of people get unnecessarily stressed out about.

So how many of the people on here have had to get an IVA/q-plate?

Anyone here got stung with an IVA or at a roadside check?

I went fully petrol a few years back, no regrets I mean having a vehicle that does over 30mpg would be nice, but it motivates me to cycle to work, at which point my petrol bill vanishes and I can justify far more interesting cars. I can see the government being under pressure to meet air pollution targets and cutting diesel emissions would be a big way to do that. Probably that will translate to higher prices at the pump, and maybe higher road tax for the rest of us.

After running a BMW engined TD4 for 6 years I would never touch one again, its the only vehicle I've had which would randomly just not start. It would drive perfectly for a month, then you'd pull up in the services, stop for a coffee and it wouldn't start. Then by the time the recovery people got there, it would have fixed itself. Obviously the garage couldn't help, because the computer said it was fine and it didn't play up when they had it. After lots of faffing around, it turned out it was the injectors, randomly failing open and causing the fuel pressure to drop. £2000 for injectors and pump later and it worked again, but because it used to randomly work anyway, I never trusted it to keep working. Shame really, as it was a nice car otherwise. Surprisingly capable offroad too.

There are three bits to the brake system, the hydraulic system with master cylinder, lines & hoses and calipers or wheel cylinders, the pedal box which applies leverage to the master cylinder, and the servo that provides pressure assistance and makes the brakes easier to apply. As above, the pedal box is very simple, it is a pivot, pedal and some form of connection onto the master cylinder. Inspect it carefully with a decent lamp, look for any cracks, but fundamentally, its a pivot. The servo is kinda irrelevant, you dont need it for the brakes to work. As a safety feature, the brakes must work without servo assistance, so I would pump off all the servo for testing, so you know you are testing the hydralics, not the servo. It sounds like your servo empties rather quickly, but maybe thats normal. Get it up on a ramp, take the front wheels off and watch the front brakes while an assistant presses the pedal, checking the movement of the pistons in the calipers, then watch the pistons while the assistant turns onto full lock, checking to see if there is any movement in the pistons/calipers. Then watch while the assistant presses the pedal. If everything is behaving normally, the issue is upstream of the calipers. Watch the flexi-hoses carefully as the assistant turns from lock to lock, they should move freely, not be stretched or come close to the wheels. As above, I would suspect the master cylinder. Once the travel issues are fixed, look at the servo capacity issues. Ive never heard of a system gaining travel when turned, its a very odd issue.