Dickie_L_J_O

Yes, my Lambdas are on the down pipe just before the cats. I have one cyclindrical cat on the driver’s (LH) side, and a pancake cat positioned vertically on the passenger’s side. Like so:

I believed it was the heat shield matting that was smoldering and glowing. The driver’s side cat is about 1” from the bottom bolt of the slave cylinder. This packaging made the job an arse as you can’t really see the slave from below, and can’t really access from above. For now I’ve removed the matting as it turned to dust when I touched it, and made a plate of steel to go in its place, just as protection from radiation.

Good evening, I’ve recently been doing a bit of work on my Range Rover. Lower steering column, pads and rotors, clutch master and slave... I drove to work in the rain for a test drive, everything seemed fine. I fired her up and drove home, nothing to report, apart from when parking up in the garage... After reversing in, I started to smell burning. I hurried in, switched off and opened the bonnet. I could see two spots glowing red around the new slave cylinder. Has anyone experience this before? I was hypothesising that I had installed the heat shield mat slightly off and it was touching the cat. The whole setup seems flawed by design, with the slave being that close to the slave, it made the change a right PITA, as none of the bolts was visible. Awful picture sorry, hard to see the glowing. Any tips? Is the heat shielding doing more harm then good? Any help appreciated, - Richard

Afternoon, I have just replaced my rear brake discs and repacked the bearings which were replaced 3 months ago. The hubs spin freely and easily. The job was relatively straight forward and I thought I was home dry. Until... I reinstalled the halfshaft on the RHS, and gasketed and sealed the drive flange. When I went for a final test spin of the hub I could hear/feel a rumble/dg dg dg dg dg noise. I initially thought this was the wheel bearings, so I removed the drive flange again and spun the hub, all ok. I then spun the halfshaft independently, and the noise was there. It sounds like it's coming from the outboard end. Here's a video: http://vid25.photobucket.com/albums/c51/Dookie_1988/IMG_4781.mp4 Ignore the pad noise, but 'behind' that noise you can hear what I'm talking about if you listen carefully. I used an endoscope to see if something was dislocated or broken, and I can't see anything untoward: Any ides? - Richard

PMd you Bowie. - Richard

Good afternoon, I have a few of queries regarding dash lights on my 1992 3.9EFI 2-door. As well as an on-going issues with my ABS light (documented in a separate thread on here), I have some other curious lights, and lack thereof. 1) When I apply the handbrake, the handbrake light comes on (good), but also the light directly under this, the t'box oil temp warning light. It goes off when I release the handbrake. Is this normal? If not, what's the fix? 2) I have no seatbelt light, should a 1992 model have a seatbelt warning light? 3) How can I test the low engine coolant light? I've tried pushing the collar on the cap up when the car is on coil, but it doesn't light. Does the engine need to be running? 4) Sometimes after rain when I disengage the handbrake, the handbrake light stay on until I get moving (but the oil temp light in question 1 goes out immediately) Thanks for getting through that. Any advice appreciated. - Richard

Thank you. Are the ECUs from the P38 system compatible? There seems to be many more viable on eBay for the P38. - Richard

By ABS controller, you mean the Wabco ECU? Are they plug and play? - Richard

So I've been playing some more, I've replaced the relays and checked the fuses. As I say, the pressure switch itsel looks brand new. If I unplug it I get the same code 2-3 and the pump doesn't work. If I unplug the pump, I get the same code 2-3 and the pump doesn't work. If I reattached everything then the pump works, fills the accumulator and tops up when it should. But I still have code 2-3. I try to reset by removing the jumper cable mid flash as advised, but the code cycle keeps flashing and repeating even with the jumper removed. When I re-check the code after switching off and on again, it's still there: 2-3. Is there any other way to reset the ECU? What else could be wrong? Everything seems to be working fine, just the code and the ABS light on when driving. Cheers, - Richard

Good afternoon, I recently replaced the Accumulator on my 1992 RRC 2 Door and bled the entire system whilst trying to solve a non-functioning ABS system. After the replacement, the pump fired up and switched off in the prescribed time, tipping up every few depressions and the brakes are sharp. I started digging when I found it impossible to to read codes from the Wabco ECU. It didn't take long to see the previous owner's garage had jumped the ABS dash light to the oil pressure light, clearly as a way of passing the MFK (local MOT). This was confusing as the actual pump looks shiny and new and was certainly replaced under the last chap's ownership. After reconnecting the wires I managed to retrieve code 2-3. This appear to be a nightmare code with nothing listed under the how-to guides and a lot of dead-end threads. The light is now on when driving and I cannot reset the code. I remove the jumper cable, as suggested, during the flash sequence and the code keeps flashing. When turning ignition off/on, I'm still left with code 2-3. Any idses? I had a look at the connector going into the side of the ABS pump, which had been siliconed in, so played with at some point in time. I got this apart and swapped the wired as the colours matched better the other way around. I was praying for something simple like this. Mistake, this blew the 30A Maxi fuse on the side of the ABS ECU. I re-checked the codes and still get 2-3 and 2-3 only. Does anyone have any ideas how to better reset the codes, what code 2-3 really is, or any other advice? Cheers, - Richard

UPDATE _________________________________________ Good evening, The other week I had a suspicion my ABS light was hooked up to my oil light as they would always go on and come off together. Then I was 100% positive of this when I saw then flicker off together one morning. This would explain why I could never read any codes from the WABCO ECU. Anyway, this weekend I replaced the accumulator and flushed the system with new fluid. On a side note I found my accumulator had one of the threaded fastener legs cut off and the other thread just resting through a hole in the inner wing. I'm not sure how this is meant to fitted on LHD models, as I could see no holes that would line up for it. I drilled some of my own in the wing and mounted bracket down rather than bracket left. I had to re-do the hard line anyway as I'd cut to remove (seized), so relocating wasn't a drama. Anywho, back to the real issue. I pulled out my dash binnacle and had a look at the wiring, sure enough a black wire had been bridged to a white/brown wire. I didn't bother looking up pin-outs and reconnected the cut black wire that was jammed quite far up the loom. I rested the binnacle back and performed the ABS fault code read. I got code 2-3. Google just gives me other similar forum threads asking what 2-3 is. It's unlisted in my 'how-to' guide. Reading through these threads it comes up (occasianally, as they're rarely answered) with faulty pressure switch. My pump/pressure switch assembly seem to be shiney and new. The pump also runs and cuts out, kicking back in on the 3rd hard pedal press (with the new accumulator). So surely the switch is working? Any other ideas, or better diagnosis of code 2-3? - Richard

Thanks for the replies. The only lights I get on coil are the handbrake/brake light, Trans 'box temp, Batt, Oil and one ABS light. These all go out once started (Expect the Brake and Trans 'box light until the handbrake is released). The ABS doesn't operate, so I'm not getting kick back because of locking and ABS operation. As I say, the same swell and push back can be felt with the car off, key out and battery disconnected... I've tried reading the codes with the blue connector, but was getting no action from the ABS lamp when bridging the black and pink/black terminals. I'm based in Zürich, so not many RRC owners around the corner to help. I can update anyway. - Richard

Good evening, Since owning my 1992 2 Door Manual, I have always experienced odd brake pedal behaviour. When I go to touch the pedal, it kicks back at me 80% of the time. I get some minute travel at first, then I feel the hard push back. Usually this is accompanied by harsh initial braking, which can be very jolting in slow traffic. Reapplying the pedal after letting off usually allows me to modulate the braking force better. After the kick back, the pedal is very hard. This also happens with the ignition off. Another symptom of something not being quite right is the ABS pump. When I first got the car I could always hear this pump whirring when I switched the ignition on. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but have since learnt it is the ABS pump. This comes on for about 45s when the ignition is first switched on. If I switch the ignition off for a few seconds and turn it back on again, I can hear the pump going again, but this time for about 3-5 seconds. Something to note is that, with the ignition on, if I press the brake pedal, the pump kicks in again for another few seconds. The ABS pump itself looks newish, it must have been replaced in the past couple of years looking at the condition compared to the rest of the system. I have lived with the car for a few months and had just assumed this was a RRC 'thing', I have no experience to suggest otherwise. The reason for the forum post now is a near miss on a drive to the mountains this weekend gone. The car two in front slammed on the anchors for a pedestrian crossing. I reacted, but the stopping power wasn't as great as I expected and with further pedal force the wheels locked. I narrowly escaped an accident. Thankfully no coffee was spilled. Either way, the lack of ABS worried me somewhat, so now I'm coming to you lot for advice. Any said advice gratefully received. - Richard

Evening, I own a 1992 2 Door Manual. This has the LT77S 'box. I have an odd vibration/juddering when pulling in 3rd gear. The other gears pull fine without this symptom. It's only in 3rd gear and doesn't matter on engine load. Usually I can't feel the vibration any more over 4k, so more pronounced a low revs. I feel it through my seat, not the steering wheel. After changing to 4th, all is well again. I have serviced the gearbox (inc. filter) and the old fluid was old but not black. The drain magnet was also acceptable in my opinion, as was the extension case's filter. There was nothing to suggest shards of metal in the system. The only other issues I've noticed with this 'box are clunky changes from 1st to 2nd, and reasonably large clunks/backlash when disengaging drive in 1st if load is on the system (up hill etc). Any advice gratefully received. - Richard

Good morning gentlemen, I am new to the forum (long time voyeur), so apologies for diving right in with my own problems. Selfish I know. I am posting this in a couple of LR forums as I'm not sure where I feel most comfortable yet. Anyway, I have bought myself a 1992 Range Rover 3.9EFI 2 Door. Some pictures if you're interested (and to break up the text): I bought the car and drove 3 hours home with no issues, well, apart from a wet floor, but that's for a different thread. The engine was running ok, idled lovely, just seemed a little hesitant under load and pulling in 3rd there's quite a judder. I thought I should give her a 'stage 0' anyway to get a known baseline. Last weekend I replaced the fuel and air filter (genuine), plugs (NGK), leads, cap and rotor (genuine). I also took the dizzy out to give it a once over. It was very clean and actually the cap and rotor looked very clean, but I replaced them anyway as I had them. The grease for the weights was a bit old and sticky and the mech advance didn't seem all to healthy. The vac advance was working and holding a vacuum fine. After a clean and re-grease the mech advance seemed a lot nicer. Anyway, I got it back in the car this weekend (rotor to HT1, less the pitch of the gear, TDC). Everything seemed to hit the marks I made before removal. Anyway, now for the issues (thanks for getting this far). She started fine but came down to about 250rpm and nearly stalled, but saved herself by revving up to 2k+. This kept happening in a continuous cycle. Near stall, high rev, near stall, high rev etc etc. Incidentally when revving up high she sounded sweet and felt smooth. I tried to hook up my strobe to see if I'd managed to get the timing way out. Clearly with the lack of a stable idle I wasn't going to see much. What I did notice was the strobe flashing, it was very inconsistent on HT1, but when revving up at 2k+ it went back to consistent. Then back down to near stall and hardly any flashes from the strobe. Things I've checked: HT leads and their connections. Ok and separated. Ignition amp wires to the coil. Old but connected. Base timing. Cap off and rotor at HT1 at TDC. So the question is, what have I messed up? Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers, - Richard