Paul

Excellent. Thanks Landy-Novice.

Can anyone help with the part number for one of these please (highlighted in yellow below):

Wow, just the opposite in Australia. Embossed metal plates only - plastic plates or stick ons will earn you the priveledge of making an instant donation to the national deficit.

Long bolts can be easily found from a fastener supplier. I don't know who you use in the UK, but in Australia they were stock items. Turning up the spacer like this one: http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=14261 is a bit more faffing about.

My set up is one of the originals we put in the Tech Archive http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2115 which I did way back in 2005. It's been used constantly since then for tyres, airbeds and a rattle gun too. On many occasions my system gets used to pump up other vehicles tyres at the same time, that can be 20 or more 33" tyres from 12 to 35 psi one after another, and never a problem. I even used it when we were building a new home to run an air drill, but it struggled to keep the air up for the drill, whereas for the rattle guns it's copes fine. I've always used the oiler and filter system and I've had zero problems with it for 6 years now. Having said that, I understand that pumping the compressor full of grease works well too and even if it didn't work quite as well a the setup with an oiler, the compressors are cheap as chips out of an old wreck, so even if it only lasted 5 years it wouldn't be a big problem.

It's been a few months and quite a few miles down the track since this fix was done, and so far not a drop of oil has appeared. In fact (here's tempting fate) the old barge doesn't leak any fluids of any type from anywhere. I know that can't go on forever - it is a Land Rover afterall. The reason I used the Loctite 567 is because it is actually a thread sealant that remains slightly flexible and has some good gap filling qualities. I don't know if the Hylomar would achieve the same thing. Whether the hole in the casing is too oval for this bodge to work is something you won't know until you try it, but removing and replacing the transfer box isn't particularly difficult, so it's worth a go to save the cost of a rebuild. If it doesn't work all you've lost is a bit of time really - and maybe some skin, sweat, a few swear words and a few cups of coffee. As long as you do the stake nut back up to exactly the same point, then you shouldn't need to replace the crush spacer. Obviously if you do a full strip down then the whole lot gets replaced.

Or is spaced without a gasket and should be replaced without a gasket, depending on how it came from the factory. Up to serial no. 288709E uses a gasket, after that - no gasket.

I have a Cut 50 plasma and it rips through 3mm mild steel very easily. I haven't done more than a couple of hours work with it, but no problems so far. All the consumable are cheap and easy picked up as well.

Nige 2 Polo Shirts - both XL please, and 2 Rugby tops - 1 XL & 1 S please. We'll work on the logistics of you hand delivering them to Australia later.

I have exactly the same issue. For some years now I've been putting up with a clutch that has inconsistent feel. Sometimes I'll have a full pedal, sometimes it'll drop to about half way before there's any resistance. Over the years I've replaced the master cylinder, the clutch itself, then the slave cylinder and then another master cylinder, and still it's playing up. I built a pressure bleeder to make absolutely certain there was no air in the line, and it has never used any fluid. Last week I was away on an overnight trip to the Bendlby Ranges and it let me down completely, meaning I had to miss out on the best of the tracks and head for home early. By the time I got back to Adelaide (4hrs drive on the highway) the pedal was back to normal. I've never replaced the master and slave cylinders at the same time, so that's what I'm doing now, and I'm replacing the flexible hose at the slave end too, just for good measure. But if this doesn't fix it I'll shoot the thing.

If you do that you'll probably need to fit the later axles and drive members to allow for the narrow bearing spacing of the later hubs. I suggest you do a trial assembly of what you've got first because you may not need any spacers - I didn't: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50806&st=0&p=463173&fromsearch=1entry463173

Like so many others, my Defender had a slow drip from the transfer case and the cause was the usual O ring on the intermediate shaft. Unfortunately this requires the removal of the transfer case to fix it, so I put up with the leak for a long time before it finally got the better of me. Having read some comments in the past about having to do a full strip down of the LT230 to fix the o ring, I though I'd show my (successful) bodge effort to solve the problem. I was happy to remove the TC, but didn't want to do the full strip down, so I replaced the o ring simply by undoing the intermediate shaft and moving it forwards in the casing just enough to replace the o ring. First step was to remove the TC and you'll be able to clearly see the leaking end of the intermediate shaft (the small round black end in the photo): The shaft is held in on the other side of the TC by a staked nut that looks like this: You need to use a small chisel, old screw driver or a variety of pointed knockable instruments to "unstake" the nut by knocking the bent bit back out of the slot until you get this: Then use a felt marker to mark the nut and the end of the thread so you can do it back up to the same tension: Now loosen the nut (30mm socket) and carefully count the turns until it comes off completely, and you'll get this: Use a soft faced mallet to tap the shaft through until the end of the thread is flush with the case: The other end of the shaft will clearly show the culprit o ring: You will need to do a bit of juggling to remove the o ring completely because the casing is too close to the shaft to remove the o ring from the groove and get it off the end of the shaft in one go. So it becomes, knock the shaft through enough to get the o ring out of the groove, knock it back a bit to get clearance between the shaft and the casing to get the o ring off altogether and fit a new o ring, knock the shaft through a bit more to seat the new o ring in the groove...you get the idea... Anyway, in my case you can clealy see how much the old o ring had compressed compared to a new one: New o ring fitted, and you can see how close the shaft gets to the front output housing: To ensure I don't end up doing this again for a looong time, I coated the shaft and new o ring with some Loctite 567 sealant, which will hopefully help the o ring seal better, and being teflon based, also helps the shaft and o ring slide nicely back into place: Final step is to tap the shaft back flush at the front, re-install the nut and tighten back up to the marks and re-stake the nut: The biggest pain with this job is having to pull the TC out because the o ring end of the intermediate shaft is partly covered by the back face of the gearbox. If it wasn't for that, it would be an easy job to do in situ, but it wouldn't be a Land Rover then would it?

My last reply in this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50806&st=0&p=463173&fromsearch=1entry463173 thread might be your answer.

And 'round here you're also likely to get a broken nose the next time you stop and the fella behind you catches up after having his vehicle showered with gravel. We'd consider it extraordinarly bad manners to travel the back roads without them, much like going around without your own snatch strap and expecting someone to use theirs to pull you out.

OK to finish off this thread, I ended up tracking down a pair of 200tdi era front hubs exactly the same as those on my vehicle i.e., wide bearing spacing and metric drive member bolts/pcd. I assume the hub bearing spacing changed late in the 200tdi era when the brakes went to discs all round, ventilated fronts and the railko bushes were replaced with taper bearings. Anyway, the outcome is that on my vehicle the matching front hubs fitted on the rear with 300tdi era rear discs, calipers and caliper mounts, all without the need for any sort of spacers for the caliper mounts, even though I already had them made up. The only change from the drum brake "standard" was the deletion of the seal track spacer (FRC8227)and replacement with the thinner spacer from the front setup (R217352). Because the seal track spacer sits on a slight lip on the stub axle, I needed to grind out the hole in the front spacer a little, otherwise it caught on the lip when doing up the bearing lock nuts and prevented the correct adjustment. Instead of R217352 you could use FTC3185 which is the spacer from the front and rear of the later hubs, but this also needs the same slight grinding out, and needs further work on its outside diameter because in this setup it will foul on the inside of the drive members. Not using FRC8227 anymore meant that the outer seal can't be used, but I'd thrown that away to get my bearings oil lubricated years ago. Finally, an added bonus was that the existing brake lines for the drum brakes also comfortably reached the disc calipers. Mine were still in very good condition and were easily bent to align with the new positions, even though I had the correct brake lines on hand.

EPX is also fine in the diffs and swivel housings. I use SAF-XA 75W140 (GL6) for transfer box, diffs and swivel housings, but our temps here are generally considerably higher than yours in Christchurch. You will notice a drop in noise level from the transfer box if you use a semi or full synthetic oil like SAF-XA (full synthetic and $$) or Valvoline Duragear (semi synthetic and cheaper).

No problem with EPX 80w-90, most likely the vast majority of Defender owners in Australia use that as it's probably the most widely available gear oil around in that spec.

I have a similar problem with that same fuse blowing. I've narrowed it down to a problem with the wiring for the reversing lights rather than the wipers. When I disconnect the wire to the reversing lights switch on the gearbox, I don't get anymore problems with the fuse blowing. Haven't managed to get around to finding the actual fault yet, I just do without the reversing lights.

I've been following the thread in the Tech Archive to convert my 200Tdi drum brake Salisbury to discs. I accumulated 300tdi calipers and mounts together with (what I was told were) early 110 front hubs. After assembling the 110 front hubs with bearings and new 300tdi rear discs, then installing the caliper mounts using a 5mm spacer just like the Tech Archive thread, I tried to put the whole lot on, only to find that the caliper wouldn't line up with the disc. It was out about 5mm - exactly the width of the spacer I had made up. No problem I thought, I just pulled it all apart again, and this time put it back together without the spacer. Everything lined up perfectly. The disc was in the middle of the caliper and after swappinmg the seal track spacer for a spacer from the front of a 200tdi, the bearings did up perfectly too. Whilst I was a bit curious that I didn't need the spacers for the caliper mounts, I wasn't letting it worry me since everything fitted so well. Until...the drive member bolts are different. My 200tdi has 10mm bolts for the drive members, and these early hubs are 3/8 UNF. OK, so that's not such a big problem, the local bolt store had the right bolts in stock so it only cost me an hour or so. What is a problem however, is that even with the right bolts I can't ge my drive members to fit. I'm using Maxidrive 5806 drive members and it seems the spacing of the bolt holes on these early hubs is just slightly different to the metric hubs. If I get one bolt in, none of the others line up properly, even with the looser fit of the 3/8 bolts in the holes meant for 10mm bolts on the drive memmbers? Can anyone confirm that they did change the pattern for the bolts, and did it happen when the bolts went from imperial to metric? Assuming that is the case, I guess my options are to either: a) Enlarge the bolt holes on the Maxidrive drive members to get them to line up (definitely not my 1st preference); b) Get a pair of early drive members to suit the hubs, or some aftermarket replacements (but I'm not keen on giving up the Maxidrive units I have); or, c) Try to find some early hubs after the change to metric bolts. I think c) above seems to be the best option, but I suspect that the metric bolts started around 200tdi era, and finding parts for a 200tdi in Australia is problematic at the best of times. Anyone have any better ideas?

You guys are making me very envious. I really miss our trips to Europe for Christmas. Forecast here for tomorrow is +40°C.

Note that Castrol LM is not recommended for disc braked hubs. On these you should be using something like Castrol HTB or Castrol APX T

No, unfortunately it won't fit in your 90 without moving engine and/or transfer case. The 200tdi auto box sits in the same position as a 300tdi auto box in a Disco, which is all the same relative length as the 300tdi manuals (both Disco & Defender). The LT77 position in a 200tdi is the odd one out.

You may want to read that first sentence again slowly. If you're right, every new vehicle coming off the production line will be a MOT failure.

Maxidrive Mal simply suggested putting the axles in the casing, engaged with the side gears. Move the outer end of the axle in a circle at the limit of the freeplay, around the inside of the housing tube. Unless the diff end splines are trashed, you should not be able to make the outer end of the axle touch the inside of the casing tube in any direction, and if the tube is straight, the axle should maintain the same clearance all the way around. If it's able to get closer to the tube on one side, then it's bent. Mal also suggested that most Salisbury casings he's ever encountered (and that would be rather a lot) are at least slightly bent from the factory. Howver, this doesn't seem to cause much of a problem, except when fitting Maxidrive lockers. Straightening a bent Salisbury is pretty easy, and doesn't require much more than brute force, like this: Yes, I know that's a Rover axle, not a Salisbury, but the method is the same. The hydraulic porta power was used to keep tension on the casing whilst the Maxidrive mounting block was being welded on, but straightening the housing is the same setup, with just a few more pumps on the hydraulics.

For Australia, yes absolutley. I just replied on another thread about the salisbury diff getting hot - the use of a fully synthetic oil made a significant difference to the temp of the diff. Full synthetic oil also made a big difference to the noise level from the transfer case. I currently use Castrol SAF-XA 75w140 in front and rear axles, swivels and transfer case. Castrol Syntrans (not syntrax) 75w85 in the gearbox and Caltex Delo 400 in the engine.