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blowmeover

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About blowmeover

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  • Location
    Suffolk.

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  • Interests
    Guitars. Hate cars!

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  1. I have an LT230, Its come out of a Defender, its old, the LT77 it was mated to had a badly worn output/main shaft. The chances are the input gear on this transfer box will also be worn. I have not yet looked at the serial number but it does look quite clean under the caked on mud, it still has a ratio sticker on it, so it could have been a replacement at some stage, the vehicle it came from was 87 or something like that. What suffix donates a cross drilled input gear?
  2. Found it, 25184c was when they changed it.
  3. Does anyone know when they changed the position of the coolant temp sender?
  4. From what I can gather the latter engines that LR updated are after 27515c , mine is from before that but has the later air research turbo and later breather system on it.
  5. Is it possible to tell the manufacture date via the serial number?
  6. Thank you, because its alloy against cast I thought it might matter, I've noticed the lift pump and stat housing gaskets are the same.
  7. Such as the oil filter housing gasket, does it matter which way around they go when fitting them?
  8. Every wiring system would be completely isolated, the gist I got from this thread was all probable causes had been covered, so if the problem isnt the park switch and they cannot be shut down they must be drawing power from somewhere.
  9. Does anyone know how many amps the motor pulls?
  10. No , but my point was if its being backfed by something else.
  11. The only thing that triggers on and stays on when the trigger is switched off is a faulty relay. Pull all the relays then try it.
  12. Is there anything else on the wiper motor fuse that could be feeding the motor?
  13. I do like them, quiet, smooth, easy to work on, they arnt too bad in the power side, they can sit with traffic, in town, moving slowly! Mine can do at least 55 mph, had my last one at nearly 70 but I got frightened and backed off! Ive gone through two in 15 years, the last one had the usual cracked pistons and was breathing but it ran fine, I finally killed it by driving it into a pond and bending a con rod, I was going to rebuild that but the bent rod took a chunk out of the side of the cylinder skirt so I scrapped it.
  14. Ive been running 19J's for the best part of 15 years, I really dont mind them, I do a country road commute so the lack of speed and power doesnt really bother me. I have read your rebuild thread and its impressive, inspiring even. I am not too keen on a TDI, simply because the 200's are few and far between and if I do find one it will be pretty worn out by this stage and a 300 will be a faff. If I can find a stop gap TD or N/A for not a lot of money I can pull this one and rebuild it, its a late version, probably one of the last built so its gotta be worth spending a few quid (tdi money) on it to rebuild it. How is yours, is it still running Ok?
  15. Some VW TDI and PD engines have chain driven oil pumps, the later common rail engines have a hex key driving the oil pump, this sits in a splined socket on the balance shaft, they wear out and the pump fails. However, in their ultimate wisdom, VW only had the oil pressure warning light come on when the engine exceeds 2000 rpm, so, normal speeds and a RPM of about 1500 and you have no oil pressure and the next thing you know is the turbo (variable vane) fails and the damage done. Makes the TD5 look like an angel.
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