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Getting Comfortable
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About blowmeover

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  1. Have you priced up genuine from Land Rover? Or maybe a used one off Ebay?
  2. It's the one that fuses the radio :o), sorry buddy I don't know, it might say on the fuse box cover or in your hand book, if not ask google, don't go randomly pulling out fuses unless you really have to as a last resort.
  3. Pull the fuse until you get it sorted.
  4. Different kits, mine was a Valeo. I just jogged my memory on this and it was my spigot bush, it had fallen apart and was sitting proud of the flywheel, this in turn put the clutch plate proud, I had other issues too, clutch fork had not seated correctly, gearbox was out three times. I made a tool to insert a new bush, I used a socket that was a good fit inside the bush then put a nut , bolt and big washer through it, this meant the washer drifted the bush in evenly and the socket stopped it from warping and cracking. Aligning the clutch is very important as jiggling the gearbox in can easily damage the bush. Always use a genuine bush from Land Rover, they don't cost much and are pre soaked in oil, the quality difference between them and aftermarket is very obvious.
  5. I had this problem, the clutch fork came off its mount, I had to strip out the gearbox again. But, if I were you I would change the master for a new OEM one first, if the seals go in the slave it leaks, if it's not leaking the slave is fine. With the slave off a worn master will still be able to push the piston, clamp the hose then gently press the pedal, don't force it.
  6. What make is it and where did you buy it? It would be interesting to see if we both bought the same one.
  7. Same thing happened to me, new clutch , biting at top of pedal, bleeding the hell out of it helped, I changed pretty much everything to try and get to the bottom of it, the only thing I didn't replace was the fork. It's still not right but it works.
  8. Yeah man, before you go any further pump it full of oil while you still have access.
  9. It's done, I used the foam you line a tool box drawer with, both sides of the hot/cold flap and the on/ off flap. I also sealed up the joins in the box. On reassembly I used 10mm rivets, as a result my hot/ cold flap it stuck tight in the hot position, I'm not going to fix this as its firmly sealing in the hot position. I also gave the matrix a right good clean and a proper flush. It's scorchio, it's never been so hot. The lack of temp blending doesn't worry me but it's an easy fix if it becomes an issue.
  10. I've taken the plunge and gone with the standard motor, rebuilding the heater box too. Has anyone refoamed the flaps in the box? I'm trying to find a suitable foam to use.
  11. Perhaps not all need a heatsink and could be chassis mount but the ones I've been looking at do. https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/0157550/?fbclid=IwAR2QT1Lr0I9CQJZNk_6aJrHg4-8bAqTx7pTxArrItIWfNbRVDq9zgqxlEUc
  12. That's just the casing, the spec sheet on RS says they have to be used with a separate heat sink, if not they don't perform to spec,
  13. Sorry to revive an old thread, but that ally resistor, did you use a heatsink with it? I was going to fit one but the spec says they need a heatsink.
  14. I have read mixed opinions on the bilge blower mod, plus I want a drop in motor. I read about a mitzi motor working and boosting air output but the hole in the heater box needed to be enlarged and it was drawing 16 amps!
  15. Isnt there a cold advance on those pumps? I know there is one on the CAV pumps.
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