blowmeover

Isnt that part of it just a skin?

Oe on these senders is Smiths, its listed on their web site, the tanks were obviously LR, Smiths supply Bearmach but it might still be pattern. Its in right, I can only go in one way, when it eventually stops raining I will go over the electrical side of it all as it works on resistance so the fault could actually be elsewhere but my guess is the slider on the coil isnt contacting with enough pressure.

Its top mount, mid 80's with the fuel pipe running down through it. The tank had a baffle in it that was catching on the arm, both tank and sender are bearmach units. I had to bend the baffle in the fuel tank in the end to stop it fouling. So now, all set up correctly out of tank but when I put fuel in the low fuel lamp comes on basically where ever it sees fit, so the sweep arm in the sender unit must not be contacting the coil correctly or with too little pressure thus causing an inconsistent reading. I am pretty sure these are Smiths units as well but I could be wrong.

Whats the quality like? Are the two door bottoms identical? I take it the o/s is genuine?

Exactly the same tops as mine, they are a great bit of kit, check the felt is still working to stop them rattling. Can I ask where you got the bottoms from?

I wonder who fitted those orange ones!

One of these, Reading says quarter tank, float all the way down, this is on a new unit, is there a system to adjusting these? Ive figured out how to adjust it but cant seem to get it right. Is it best to set one up with the tank totally empty? In the tank I can see a metal plate surrounding the filter on the end of the intake, I have no idea if the float wire rests on this or not. I seem to get it right, drive it for a bit only to find the level has crept up and my low warning light illuminates with half a tank rather than just above the red.

Have you serviced the electrical system? You said its had a new alternator, if the new one failed I would check over the electrical system just to make sure there is nothing else causing the alternator to fail. If you need any help Im also in Suffolk and if not too far away I could look over it for you.

How do you know its master and slave? Usually a slave will leak, master wont, so if you have no fluid leak the master is letting by, if you do have a fluid leak the slave is letting by. If both went at the same time you are either very very very unlucky or there is a different problem.

If you are going to fit series doors you will need a set of antiburst locks and your door striker will need modified or changed for series type, I modified mine but it was on an old lift up handle system so may be different from any modern striker. You will need cappings and the seal between capping and door top, also, series doors may not be drilled for the lock on an antiburst lock, I had to drill through the door skin for the lock barrel to poke through. Military type doors will have all this already.

These are how my military door tops lock, at least I think they are military, they are more modern than the 110 door tops according to the glass.

Just a thought, but none of my 19Js got hot quickly, they all ran fairly cold, except this present one, got hot very quickly because the timing was retarded.

Just fill the thing with oil after its been galvanised, that'll do it, or get one made out of gunmetal.

TD5 bulkhead differs in a few ways, wiper boxes have different brackets, from memory you can cut the TD5 ones off, tunnel is smaller, again use the diaphragm as a template and cut it out, redrill holes for the diaphragm, weld in captive nuts, you will be glad you did on clutch changes, you need a hole for the wiring on the main loom to pass through to the fuse box, lots of holes that will need blanked off, you need to drill a new hole for the wiper motor, you can fit a riv nut in this, its been over a decade from fitting a TD5 into a 200 so I am sure there is more, but , all in all its a pretty easy thing to do. Fit it and build it up, then when all the mods are done strip it and get it galvanised.

I just used hydraulic hose, its been that way for 13 years now.

Duct tape over mine, and a good dose of grease sprayed in there too!

You will need one to the chassis as well, I have both on mine, I usually buy mine already made up, crimping big terminals like that never worked out for me!

If they are operating correctly, Im not sure it is a swirl chamber, I think its pre combustion ,either way , its been burning the fuel in the chamber too hot, possibly due to timing being retarded? if it is a pre combustion chamber it shouldn't be burning all the fuel in the chamber , as the melting occurred directly under the chambers throat my guess is something is going wrong in the chambers.

I didn't mean for the 19J, I am wondering what else these injectors go into., it could be that the spray pattern was putting fuel straight down onto the piston rather than vaporise it. That would probably cause that kind of damage. Or that the injector was open for too long a period, but that would be more to do with the pump. If it was running lean it could have got hot, did it get up to running temp normally? In other words, take ages? When my pump timing was retarded it got up to operating temperature really quickly.

When you get back have a read of the codes on the nozzles, I have a couple of sets here and we can compare, I dont know if there are different nozzles for these injectors but I would assume that there is.

Where did you get them from? Have you had a look at them? What are the nozzles like? Any blueing or deformed in any way? You could unscrew the nozzles and see if the pins are sliding up and down correctly.

The pipe to the turbo , blow into it, it should not allow you to, also suck it, again it should not allow you to.

Make sure you have the correct cooling jets fitted and they are working properly. I would get the pump checked as well as the injectors, injectors weren't blue box too were they?

Can you get your hands on a coolant pressure test kit? Have you tried back flushing the system? How hot do the heater pipes feel when the heater is running cold? Have you made sure the heater box matrix bypass flap is working properly?

It does seem strange that all four would do that, even for Britpart pistons! If you look at the rest of the crowns they all look fine, what do the hot spots look like? anything odd?