dnesdlrow

I've got a 1986 3.5 efi RRC. I'd like to have a spare AFM and 've found a Jaguar AFM, it's still a Lucas 2AM but with a slightly bigger bore. The seller says it'll work on a Range rover and he has the right 80 - 90mm hose. Anyone have experience of this? Is it likely to work correctly?

Thanks. It seems to be running fine now, so I'll leave the 25w one in. Going to buy a spare ignition amplifier module too.

I found the culprit! The ignition amplifier. Replaced it this afternoon and it started right up. I also sourced a 6.8k resistor online and soldered it in to the loom. I’ve got it between the ECU and the coil, it sure it’s going to make any difference other than protect the ECU? Any idea what wattage the resistor should be? I’ve seen everything from .25 to 50 watts. I couldn’t find an original resistor so had to guess. I went for 25w.

Thanks. I rebuilt the top end about 4 years ago and replaced many components like the flame trap and hose so I doubt it’s that but I will check. It has spark and fuel (good pressure). it now has a new coil too. The only thing that I could find amiss, which seems slightly odd but probably inconsequential, is the 6.8k resistor is missing on the speed signal between the coil and the ecu. Could that cause any issues? The battery is good and cranks the engine no problem.

A few more developments... I've been trying to work through the Workshop manual fault diagnosis but it doesn't see to match up with my Ecu plug. Initially I was a bit confused by the pin numbers but then realised it didn't matter whether it was looking from front or back those pins just don't exist on my plug! So I'm not sure whether I have a manual for a different model or if my ecu is some kind of bodge (doubtful as I had it checked about 4 years ago). I've attached a photo. I've also attached a photo from the page for the injector tests. Are the pin numbers for looking straight at the plug or from behind as I saw described elsewhere? If someone has a copy of the EFI manual for a 1986 that would be great? I also tried listening for the injectors with ignition on and opening throttle but couldn't hear anything. So what could cause this?? (my posts are taking nearly a day to be approved by the moderators, is that normal??)

Thanks for the replies. The ticking noise is intermittent and happens with just the ignition on. It's not relays but a definite electrical arcing noise. It hasn't done it for a few days now, perhaps it was because the engine was wet. Now that it's dry it seems to have stopped. But it won't start now. The HT leads are relatively new (3 yrs / 2000 miles). The amplifier could be a culprit but it was new at the same time as the dizzy (4 yrs). It's mounted remotely near the coil. I've just ordered a new coil to remove that from the equation. It's high energy 0.9 ohms I think as that was recommended by Power spark. The spark seemed OK to me when I checked, but the weather was so awful it was hard to see and I was losing the will to carry on. The pump runs fine with ignition on and flap opened, and gives just over 2 bar of pressure. I'm going to try and listen for the injectors tomorrow with throttle opening. And I'll double check the spark when I get the new coil. I've got a scan from the factory workshop manual which I'm working through. It has a fault diagnosis section for a non starting engine but it says from hot. Is there another section that has the cold starting fault diagnosis? Is there a way to test the amplifier? They're about £30 so could get another. Haven't checked the fuel return to the tank. Could that prevent starting?

My 1986 RRC 3.5 v8 flapper has developed an engine issue. It started losing power a few weeks ago and then slowly got worse to the point it would cut out and not start again. Leave it to cool and it would start but the same would eventually happen. It did this last winter a couple of time (not as bad) but was fine all summer. it turns over fine. Engine top end was rebuilt 4 years ago with new cam, new powerspark dizzy, and May other new bits. I’ve checked fuel pump/relays and all good. I think it’s because when I turn the ignition on there is multiple electrical ticking noise around the engine bay, sounds like the whole thing is live. im guessing there must be a massive short somewhere. where do I start?! Could this be an earth/ground issue? If so does anyone have a list or diagram of where they all are? I've checked the one that goes from the back left of the block to the bonnet, it’s a wee bit frayed but ok. The battery Positive goes straight down to a chassis point. Cleary this can’t be earthed but it i on a bolt sticking out from the chassis, I’m assuming this is isolated. It’s parked up on top of a snow/ice covered hill so is a bugger to work on for any length of time. Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated.