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Everything posted by Kevm

  1. Rear chassis grommet/bung

    I did wonder if it was originally "bunged" will have a look at your link and ebay and see if I can find one suitable then, Ta.
  2. Anyone tell me the part number for the grommet/bung that goes in the hole in the chassis on the N/S - the O/S has one that fits around the rear lights cable bundle where it exits from the chassis but I just have a hole on the N/S. Be nice to plug that hole up and stop some of the s**t going in there.
  3. I want to make a pair of rock/tree sliders as the sill panels on mine are covered with bent alloy checkerplate and look carp. I have searched and found lots of people who want drawings but not found any decent drawings but from what I have seen 80x40x3mm box seens to be a sensible size. One thing that I have noticed is at the front and back there is a screw that goes though the rubber wheel arch and screws into the end of the existing sill - how do you fix that if you have a slider? I plan to get them galvanised so dont really want any little holes in the ends, I suppose I could drill them afterwards. Anyone got any drawings and what did you do about the wheel arch screws?
  4. Rock/tree sliders

    I did wonder about vent holes and it seems the galvanisers need holes top and bottom to let the air out, the odd thing after looking at loads of sliders yesterday (most of which were galvanised) no one has mentioned putting holes in or having to plug them after to stop them filling with mud and no one has mentioned about the screws/pins that support the ends of the arches. So looks like I will have to drill and tap the ends to take the arch screws and put in vent holes which I will plug after.
  5. Defender 2.5na loss of power when hot

    If #3 looks whiter/hotter then maybe it is an injector problem or even an injector pump problem on that cylinder. While you have the injectors out you could put them all back on the ends of the pipes and try and point them into a big cardboard box, put some safety glasses on and get someone to crank it over and look at the spray pattern from the injectors (don't get too near the spray) Also change the hotplugs (ERR1223) in the head while you have it off - they are the little round plugs with a square hole in front of the injectors, they usually crack, see if the one on #3 looks any different? It's not getting too hot is it? have you checked the rad, water pump, thermostat etc?
  6. To scrap or not to scrap

    I am maybe a bit late with this suggestion or it's totally useless but have you tried putting the reg number into some of the HPI/stolen check sites? This is the first one I came across on the list, https://www.instantcarcheck.co.uk/ For the sake of a tenner you could find out if it shows up as anything bad. Nice new galvanized chassis, sort any other rusty bits when its apart and it will last a long time and still be worth something.
  7. Performance Cylinder Head

    I had the head off to do the gasket on mine so gave it a clean up of the ports, reckon ive got as much as - oh 69 to 70 hp now.
  8. So what is the difference between a disco TDI and a defender TDI?
  9. Thats the one I have on mine (89 2.5na) I had a job finding one the same when I changed it. When you look at the prices in the link Western gave http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1355/563146-DIESEL-LIFT-PUMP.html Do you rub your chin and wonder "should I get a genuine one or a Britpart?" or do you decide instantly?
  10. Sounds a lot like mine, oil leaks everywhere, fixed a few of them had the head off and sorted that but it still blows oil into the air cleaner. Not really worth a full stripdown and rebore because it would still only be 67bhp, I just drive it and if anything major goes wrong with the engine I would look for a TDI to go in. Still worth you doing the head though as it's not really that big a job and made a big difference to how well mine ran.
  11. When you've got all your leaks sorted can you come and do mine? You do realise you are slowly turning off the anti-corrosion system.
  12. propshaft swap

    How often do they break and how many LR drivers have been beaten to death?
  13. I think the moral of this story is - when you take things apart put it back together loosely till you are ready to fix it.
  14. propshaft swap

    Both of mine are fitted with sliders to axles and I have never had a problem with them.
  15. That's the thing about Land rovers if you fix one leak it will just come out somewhere else, I have a big bit of old carpet under the parking spot in my garage it's been there a couple of years so maybe time to find a new bit of old carpet.
  16. Don't think there are any surprises under that plate, I believe you remove the plate then screw the centre bolt back in to lock the pump for timing. My guess would be an o ring as well, should be easy enough to get another o ring but try and get a viton one not buna as it will stand up to diesel better. Probably be difficult to find part #s for it as they don't usually want people messing with bits of the pump, just sell you a new pump.
  17. Yeah, what Bowie said, give it a rub with a file and wire brush, squirt of WD40, clean it up stick it together.
  18. Presumably you cannot drive it at the moment so you have nothing to lose by taking the pipe off and inspecting the fitting threads, if they are damaged you either have to try and restore them with a needle file or you get a new fitting, I would think you need to contact a local fuel injection specialist for that but you should be able to change it without taking the pump off. First step take the pipe off and have a look.
  19. As Mo says above but have a good look at the threads on the pump fitting as if they are damaged you will damage the threads on your new pipe and it will still leak..
  20. Replace or re-use rocker arms? **see pic**

    As long as the wear isn't a recess in the arm as then you won't be able to get an accurate feeler gauge setting.
  21. 300tdi fuel cut off

    So what you going to do, get another one and try again? don't suppose you can do anything else.
  22. 300tdi fuel cut off

    Still don't understand why the old solenoid is out and new one in, the spring should push the piston back out to the engine stop position why hasn't it popped back out in the photo. Presumably it seats onto a shoulder with the o ring, so should not be overtightened. As Tim says it could be the wrong solenoid as the ends do look a different length but there must be something sharp inside the pump to be tearing up the rubber tip. Have a good look inside with a torch.
  23. 300tdi fuel cut off

    If you apply 12v to it which way does it go - because it looks like one is in and one is out? Also what is inside the pump that the rubber bit bears on does it have a sharp edge? Where have the rubber chunks gone? inside the pump?
  24. Which clutch kit?

    Can someone explain it to me as well, I have the 2.5na (power and torque monster) don't know how old the clutch is but doesn't seem like it is going to need a new one anytime soon. But the important thing is what is the price difference between a standard Valeo clutch and a HD. one?
  25. Bush to hold gear knob on

    I turned and tapped an alloy bush then glued it in with JB weld, perfect.