michael calvert

thanks for prompt replies. yes it had full belts and what not swapped at 105, and has been serviced at main dealer - for what that is is it worth swapping plugs while i can ie now before they're needed properly and too late?

just aquired one of these with 125k on the clock, 55 plate any thing i should be wary of.

an air heater will also warm the compartment without having the vehicle running

just a couple of earths!

my sentiments too, botht the ones ive built have needed packers to take up the slack, think the first one i did i had to use a washer to the two centre brackets which come of the square (rectangle) crossmember (and fasten near back of centre seat??

is it worth setting up a pinned topic for wanted / available positions for these places, saves trawling through the event threads for a seat etc or when your stcuk ringing round those you know might be able to do it and have ffered all year! - or a new section? just a thought, seen on another forum thats all

anyone want a co-driver?

dewalt through and through 4 words explain my thoughts!

that was my thoughts, not entry level but a mate of mine has £2.5m in his laser cutter (and a bit less in the other) cuts 3d and selects its own sheet froma rack mind, but its mind bogling, knows how much of sheet is left and puts it back!

probably be as easy and quicker to make some templates , card would do, or measurements and go to your local metalworker/engineer and get some fabricated, out dims for the plte and bolt centres, (maybe take a diagnol to check they are square too) bolt i would guess was m10's so he'll probably sell you those too

why not try your local car scrappers and get some rear quarted lights from a little hatch / estate with flat rear's?

when i replaced the doors on my 90 during its rebuild the doors came of with a stihl saw down the front of the hinge making sure there was no chance of them staying on!

As said before totally depends on where the starting pint is and how far you want to take it for the finish, worst thing is opening the door and sitting in looking at different colours, are you sure they are mechancially soudn f the paint is flakey and blistering then the body work is on the way out! metalics are hard to repair/touch up when (not usually if) they need to be - just a thought for the future thats all stay clear of the big boys if money is tight, a small backstreet garage can do the business but have less overheads, if you have the premises try do the masking and removal works to rduce their hours on it, maybe even o the the paint shop lads will do it 'out of hours' at yours??

its not just on boost, we had some on the FL10 that were soft and when the overrun kicked it is compressed and sucked flat causing it to starve which cut the engine till the pipes were replaced (pretty fast!)