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Everything posted by Kurt

  1. Just to add. Always use a hex socket to undo the 3 10mm head bolts on the pulley. They will round off otherwise. Dont ask me how i know this 😵
  2. Unable to get this to the machine shop for another week so had a play around with a telescoping bore guage ( calibrated using calibration bar out of my unfortunately to small for the job external mic! ) just checked each cylinder once from side to manifolds side of engine around 40mm below block face. 90.49 90.48 90.47 90.48 Pretty much all bang on standard bore spec.
  3. Hi i replaced mine with a hybrid turbo as the oil seals had gone on my old one and i would not say its any more powerful ( still standard boost ) but i find it has made the lump far more pleasurable to drive low down the in the rev range as it comes on boost earlier.
  4. Checked Conrod bushes earlier and it is possible to rock the wrist pin ever so slightly when inserted into the rod..... I would say the amount of play is the same on all four. Is this acceptable?
  5. Thats where I plan on using for most of my bits for the rebuild. Great service and always happy to answer any questions.
  6. ^ Thanks Western. That reminds me i need to ask them about honing of the cylinders. Checking the kolbenshmidt site the top rings are chrome plated i am under the belief that these need a slightly more aggresive hone grit to help them bed in properly. Job for tonight has been to clean off gasket remenants and carefull polish with 2000grit paper using piece of float glass and check block face for straightness. Only spot i could get a feeler guage in was when measured diagonally between 2 and 3 cylinder at 0.03 ( 0.04 at a push... quite tight ).
  7. Called the machine shop today regarding bores and i am going to drop it in with them. He suggested maximum oversize pistons or otherwise sleeve if the scratch is to deep. Hoping there is enough meat left on the block to avoid the later. All bearings including mains pretty good with no scoring or copper showing. Std size shells. All journals apart from the pit on number 1 look good will measure with external caliper sometime this week.
  8. Beginning to now wonder if i managed to hit the journal with the rod when removing the piston.... 🙄
  9. My current 300 has several on number 4 cylinder big enough to feel with a fingernail. Same as you i noticed mine when i replaced head gasket.
  10. Managed to remove the crank rods and pistons today along with camshaft. Mains and big end bearings all seem ok though i will be replacing anyway. Camshaft forward most bearing has a little wear. Crankshaft journal number 1 conrod has 2 small marks / pits though nothing on the corresponding bearing surface. Wondering if it will be fine with a polish or will require regrinding?
  11. Yep was a little dissapointing especially given the general condition of the bores otherwise which i was going to measure with a view to just re-honing if possible but going to leave that for the machine shop now.
  12. Bore score on number 1 cylinder 😩 can feel with fingernail and just about hang my fingernail up on. May require rebore i think. Will get all 4 done and planning on using genuine pistons. Checked crankshaft endfloat earlier and measured bang in the middle of acceptable spec.
  13. Crankshaft gear. This proved a bit awkward to remove. No amount of levering would budge it. I soon decided i had to construct some sort of puller to have a fair chance of removing. I ended up drilling and tapping the m5 holes to accept the m8 long bolts from my timing kit. It was then i noticed that the pulley puller had extra holes in which corresponded with the ones on the gear result! Once off a noticable amount of gunk/rust was evident. No damage to the crank nose , woodruff key or corresponding keywey in the gear though which was nice 😊.
  14. Checking the camshaft endfloat before i remove ( and giving me a chance to try my new dti guage out 😂 ) and finding it to be within spec.
  15. Pistons are standard and no evident wear lip on bores. What is there however is a ring of varnish/carbon mostly flickable off with a fingernail. Cross hatching is still plainly visble ( factory???) and a bit of glazing going on though this now looks worse now i have covered the bored with grease. Checking the pistons at the top of there travel there is none/very little play when trying to rock from side to side.
  16. ^ Haha! Thankyou! 😉 Taking a little look about i can see that the block deck is in quite good condition with no pitting evident around waterways even the triangular ones between cylinders which usually succumb to this. It has been covered with grease by myself to protect it and the bores. Its actually a lot cleaner in person and just light staining which easily comes off with fine (2000 grit) abrasive paper.
  17. Having finished the chassis job on my defender i have decided to replace the somewhat tired lump in her and purchased a short motor from a relatively low mile discovery from a reputable landrover specialist with a view to rebuild. Looking in the timing chest i could see quite an amount of “ fluff “ presumably timing belt related. This doesnt concern me as will be replacing with my own which i know is good. I do wonder if this was the reason the engine was removed. And so i begin my rebuild thread ... it may end up being a little long winded 😂
  18. Seat re-trim kits get the thumbs up from me. Bonnet cable not so.
  19. Quick update. Following a slightly more spirited drive to work this morning involving a few more hills the oil cooler does appear to be working as it should ( sigh of relief! ) Thank you everybody for the helpfull suggestions.
  20. Thanks western. I have ordered a new thermostat and o rings as the system is so simple i may as well replace at the same time as checking. Could be ok as i had not exactly been pushing the limits of the engine before i noticed the pipes were cold. Just a little stop start traffic and 30mph roads on my way home from work.
  21. Just thinking out loud here but maybe an electrical issue causing a false reading somehow? I would try putting all the electrics fan , wipers at first start and see what happens to the guage whilst the engine is stone cold.
  22. Hi Western. Is the 200tdi plumbed differently than the 300 though? I managed to find this pic online below of 300 tdi cooler lines. Shows the line from thermostat top hat to bottom connection this is the same as i have mine.
  23. Thanks Red90 I will try and give it a long run on the motorway tomorrow and re check. One thing that has passed through my mind is if I have got the pipes connected to the cooler positions correctly. I have the pipe that you would remove to access and remove the thermostat going to the bottom connection of the cooler can anybody with a 300tdi confirm this is correct?
  24. Just put a new rad on and went for a drive for 17 or so miles engine up to temperature. Popped the bonnet on returning home to check for leaks and have noticed the oil cooler pipes are cold? Is this normal? I did notice on taking my old leaking rad off that when I undid the bottom cooler pipe little oil came out I seem to remember more coming out in the past when I have had to remove it. Stuck thermostat maybe? The engine has been stood out of vehicle for over a year due to chassis upwards rebuild.
  25. Mudstuff currently fitted to mine by the previous owner. As you can see there has not been much in the way of switches , radio , etc fitted by myself but it does cover a hole that has been butchered in the lower dash panel well. So doing a job of sorts. Must admit i do quite like the raptor engineering one as posted above.
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