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Kurt

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Posts posted by Kurt

  1. Unable to get this to the machine shop for another week so had a play around with a telescoping bore guage ( calibrated using calibration bar out of my unfortunately to small for the job external mic! ) just checked each cylinder once from side to manifolds side of engine around 40mm below block face. 90.49 90.48 90.47 90.48 Pretty much all bang on standard bore spec.

     

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    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, ballcock said:

    Reviving an old thread as my turbo has just thrown it's toys out, what was the consensus on these hybrid turbos, are they worth fitting or no extra benefit?

    Hi i replaced mine with a hybrid turbo as the oil seals had gone on my old one and i would not say its any more powerful ( still standard boost ) but i find it has made the lump far more pleasurable to drive low down the in the rev range as it comes on boost earlier. 

  3. ^ Thanks Western. That reminds me  i need to ask them about honing of the cylinders. Checking the kolbenshmidt site the top rings are chrome plated i am under the belief that these need a slightly more aggresive hone grit to help them bed in properly. Job for tonight has been to clean off gasket remenants and carefull polish with 2000grit paper using piece of float glass and check block face for straightness. Only spot i could get a feeler guage in was when measured diagonally between 2 and 3 cylinder at 0.03 ( 0.04 at a push... quite tight ).

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  4. Called the machine shop today regarding bores and i am going to drop it in with them. He suggested maximum oversize pistons or otherwise sleeve if the scratch is to deep. Hoping there is enough meat left on the block to avoid the later. All bearings including mains pretty good with no scoring or copper showing. Std size shells. All journals apart from the pit on number 1 look good will measure with external caliper sometime this week.

     

     

  5. 4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:

    That’s a shame. I guess it must have picked something up and scratched the bore :(

    When I took the head off my 200Tdi a little while back it had some vertical marks in some of the bores, however they couldn’t be felt with a finger and seemed to be some kind of light polishing rather than a scratch. Some kind of wear I am sure but I put it back together and all seems okay so far. 

    My current 300 has several on number 4 cylinder big enough to feel with a fingernail. Same as you i noticed mine when i replaced head gasket.

  6. Managed to remove the crank rods and pistons today along with camshaft. Mains and big end bearings all seem ok though i will be replacing anyway. Camshaft forward most bearing has a little wear. Crankshaft journal number 1 conrod has 2 small marks / pits though nothing on the corresponding bearing surface. Wondering if it will be fine with a polish or will require regrinding? 

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  7. 1 hour ago, cackshifter said:

    Well that's a darned nuisance to put it mildly!! Still at least you will know you are starting off right.

    Yep was a little dissapointing especially given the general condition of the bores otherwise which i was going to measure with a view to just re-honing if possible but going to leave that for the machine shop now. 

  8. Crankshaft gear. This proved a bit awkward to remove. No amount of levering would budge it. I soon decided i had to construct some sort of puller to have a fair chance of removing. I ended up drilling and tapping the m5 holes to accept the m8 long bolts from my timing kit. It was then i noticed that the pulley puller had extra holes in which corresponded with the ones on the gear result! Once off a noticable amount of gunk/rust was evident. No damage to the crank nose , woodruff key or corresponding keywey in the gear though which was nice 😊.

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  9. Pistons are standard and no evident wear lip on bores. What is there however is a ring of varnish/carbon mostly flickable off with a fingernail. Cross hatching is still plainly visble ( factory???)  and a bit of glazing going on though this now looks worse now i have covered the bored with grease. Checking the pistons at the top of there travel there is none/very little play when trying to rock from side to side.

     

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  10. ^ Haha! Thankyou! 😉 Taking a little look about i can see that the block deck is in quite good condition with no pitting evident around waterways even the triangular ones between cylinders which usually succumb to this. It has been covered with grease by myself to protect it and the bores. Its actually a lot cleaner in person and just light staining which easily comes off with fine (2000 grit)  abrasive paper.

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  11. Having finished the chassis job on my defender i have decided to replace the somewhat tired lump in her and purchased a short motor from a relatively low mile discovery from a reputable landrover specialist with a view to rebuild. Looking in the timing chest i could see quite an amount of “ fluff “ presumably timing belt related. This doesnt concern me as will be replacing with my own which i know is good. I do wonder if this was the reason the engine was removed. And so i begin my rebuild thread ... it may end up being a little long winded 😂

     

     

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  12. Thanks Red90 I will try and give it a long run on the motorway tomorrow and re check. 

    One thing that has passed through my mind is if I have got the pipes connected to the cooler positions correctly. I have the pipe that you would remove to access and remove the thermostat going to the bottom connection of the cooler can anybody with a 300tdi confirm this is correct?

  13. Just put a new rad on and went for a drive for 17 or so miles engine up to temperature. Popped the bonnet on returning home to check for leaks and have noticed the oil cooler pipes are cold? Is this normal? I did notice on taking my old leaking rad off that when I undid the bottom cooler pipe little oil came out I seem to remember more coming out in the past when I have had to remove it. Stuck thermostat maybe? The engine has been stood out of vehicle for over a year due to chassis upwards rebuild.

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