ottomatic

I loosened the master off this evening but there is no scope to adjust the pushrod shorter as it’s fully screwed in. Instead I found a couple of thin washers, one each side, and used them as shims to space the master back off the servo. It should achieve the same objective but I won’t be able to test that until the weekend as I am one of the un-furloughed.

Thanks Western I’ll check the pushrod clearance first. Hopefully it isn’t the PDWA valve. Is the pushrod adjustable without completely disconnecting the master and brake pipes?

I’m in the shake down stages of a rebuild and rechassis of a 1985 Ninety. It now has a 300tdi and an auto box from a 1996 Disco. All new servo, master cylinder, brake lines, calipers, discs, and pads fitted. The system bleed was straightforward and the brakes work perfectly at startup. However after 30 minutes or so of leisurely driving on farm tracks with minimal use of the brakes, all 4 discs start to bind and the brake pedal becomes solid. To the point where it will not even coast. Leave it to cool off and all returns to normal again. Is this a known issue? Thoughts / comments welcome.

I have just done this. It is possible to get the air box set in the “right” way round. I tapped into the wing-top heater intake duct. It’s then a short run into the turbo. Made up a bracket in ali and used a td5 washer bottle to free up the space. The original Disco pipework can be cut up and repurposed to fit the new setup.

Thanks Filip I’ll see if one turns up in the UK. Stay safe

I imagine that a few of the more adventurous among you will have been motivated to try out one of the aftermarket boost pins that are readily available on the emarket. In a back to basics exercise, has anyone got a spare OE pin which has been taken out that you could send me to return a tweaked pump to standard spec?

Thank you all for the comments. Landrover got it mostly right with their mechanical engineering; if they had embraced galvanising, there would be little to change. I’m going to stick with stock and run the viscous fan setup. Caution with the cowl types noted.

Fair comment. My normal inclination is not to stray too far from standard LR spec (even if it’s a different model) because the further you go down that path, the more difficult it becomes when you inevitably have to replace/repair.

I have a Disco 300tdi engine and am dropping it into a Ninety. It did not come with a viscous fan. I have been offered a used one supposedly off a 300tdi. The thing is that the threaded stud on the engine idler is around 28mm OD while the nut on the fan coupling is around 32mm internally. Leaves it more than acceptably loose...., Are there different sizes of couplings?