bnamunds

What's the preferred method to seal up these door corners? See picture for reference. I just finished building out the new doors.

I repainted my rear tub and the upper panels with the rear windows and am trying to figure out the best way to seal them when I re-install. The land rover specific seals are very expensive. Has anyone used a commercially available seal strips to seal the rear tub to the window uppers?

All, I'm replacing my old D90 body onto a new richards galv chassis, YRM patched seat pan, YRM patched footwells, and new welded in YRM bulkhead A-pillars. I've got everything roughly placed in with all bolts still loose so I can adjust. I'll be using the string method to align the curves of the rear tub to the curves on the bulkhead. What I need is the correct measurement for the door opening from rear tub to the bulkhead. Essentially what I'm looking for is the proper measurement for the door opening (door width plus gaps on both sides). Right now I have one side at 87.6cm (34.5") and one side at 89.1cm (35.1"). I can adjust either side, or both, but I don't know what measurement to use. I also do not have the doors to measure (I'm ordering new ones and don't have them yet) which is why I'm asking. Thanks fellas!

Thank you gentlemen! I've identified it as an Aldon/PerTronix electronic ignition. http://shop.pertronix.com/pertronix-lu-144-ignitor-lucas-45d-4-cyl-with-vacuum-advance.html#.Wb3FOtOGOCU

I opened my distributor cap today on my 88 Defender 2.5L petrol motor and found this; it must be modified or maybe an aftermarket setup because it doesn't match the factory specs or workshop manual. Pictures are below, can anyone identify what distributor this is so I can look up the appropriate service manual and get the tuning and troubleshooting specs? Thanks!

Bowie69 - yep not a burr, they are about .024 off in size. Monkie - I discussed that idea with my machinist, and he agrees that should be a last resort only. I spoke with Turners yesterday, and the engineer their said most of the time their pre-finished bearings will fit just great and that a line ream would be ideal, but if you can't do that then you should be ok with just a quick polish on the bearing inners. Thanks for your advice everyone.

I ordered the bearings from Paddocks, and had no idea there was a difference between finished and unfinished bearings. I'm in the US and nobody anywhere near me (within a 1000 miles) has a mandrel small enough to line bore camshaft bearings. Do you know where I can buy finished bearings? I'm not familiar with Turners... Thanks!

Men, need a bit of help please. I am rebuilding my 2.5L petrol engine (1988, 17H model) and just had the machine shop install new camshaft bearings. I also bought a new camshaft and when I went to install it the new camshaft doesn't fit - based on my measurements the new bearings are about .023" too small in diameter. The old and new camshaft journals measure exactly the same. I've never heard of anyone ever having to line bore camshaft bearings before (and neither has my machinist, and he can't even do that if I wanted him to) so I'm wondering what others have done or why the camshaft doesn't fit? Any advice? Is it possible that land rover camshaft bearings come in both unfinished and finished sizes and maybe I ordered the wrong ones?? Thanks for the help. BNA.

Perfect, thank you!

In the middle of a 2.5 Petrol (17H model engine) rebuild, and I'm going to install the crankshaft soon but I am confused which way the thrust bearings should be inserted on the middle crankshaft bearing. The manual says "install the thrust washers so the notches face the bearing." Which bearing? Does that mean the notches in the thrust washers should face towards each other, i.e. towards the engine block and the crankshaft bearing shell or should they face away from each other, i.e. towards the crankshaft? I thought it made sense that the notches in the thrust washers should face away from each others because that is the face that will rub against the turning crankshaft. Thanks for the assist.

Like the title says, I'm getting to the body work on my 1988 D90 resto, and there is a little bit of surface corrosion on the rear aluminium body panels. Does anyone know the best method of treatment to neutralize the reaction prior to primer? Or how have others tackled this problem in the past? I'm planning to prime the entire body with a few coats of epoxy primer before moving on to high build primer/surfacer and then a basecoat/clearcoat finish. Thanks!

Gents, There is some noticeable wear on my rocker arms, but the manual doesn't specify any minimum specs for these. I'm wondering if they need to be replaced or if I can re-use them since you can set the rocker arm to pushrod clearance? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks mates.

Gents, I removed my LT230T and took off the propshafts. On the bench I am testing it to see if I need to rebuild it or not. The problem I'm concerned about is that when I engage the diff lock, there is significant backlash/rotational play between the front and rear output drive shaft flanges in both high and low gears. When I hold one of them and rotate the other with diff lock engaged there is about 45 degrees of slack/backlash before the gears engage and the opposite drive flange moves. Is this normal? I'm wondering if I need to have a look at the LT230 diff pegs or something. Anybody experience this before and could point me in the right direction? Of note, just in case you are going to ask, the output gear shaft from the gearbox and the input drive in the LT230T are in great shape (and it's not even the cross-drilled input gear) so that is not part of the problem. Many thanks!

Thank you gentlemen..I think I shall go with the rebore and total rebuild. Here's another dumb question, I'm looking at these pistons from Paddocks, "Piston assy with rings - 040 o/s - 2.5 Petrol" and interpret that to mean they are 0.040mm oversize, so I should tell my machinist to rebore at standard bore size plus 0.040mm correct?

I'm rebuilding my 1988 petrol 2.5L motor, the motor has just over 60,000 original miles and I'm looking for some advice whilst rebuilding it, sorry for the multi-part question but I know there are much smarter engine people out there than I. a. Is there an easy way to determine if I should to replace the piston rings? The pistons run smooth in the cylinders, and the cylinder walls are smooth, and flat to the touch. At the top of the stroke, there is just a barely perceptible amount of lateral play in the cylinder when you try to wiggle it side-to-side. I attached pictures of the cylinders for reference. b. If I do need to replace the rings, must I then have the cylinders re-bored .01 or .02 over and then get new oversize pistons and rings? Or can I just replace the rings on the existing pistons? c. When I'm in there doing the rings, is it always a good idea to put in new con rod bearing shells too? d. Any other misc advice? Thanks mates..this forum is wonderful

Upon removing my water pump today I found the pump is nasty with crud and rust and so is the water channel/water jacket..engine has been sitting for 8 months or so and it wasn't fully drained of coolant, which I suspect has caused this buildup. Anybody know a good way to clean out all the crud and rust from the water jackets? I have the engine on a stand with head off, but cylinders and sump still in place and I'm hoping to find a good way to get the water channels cleaned out without a complete strip down of the block to have it dipped. Thanks mates!

When I removed the exhaust manifold from my 2.5L petrol 17H motor today I looked inside the block into the exhaust valve area and noticed that one of them is full of what looks like wet oil, and the others are much more dry. Reference the pictures below, ("exh valve.jpg" is the wet valve, "exh valve(1).jpg" is the dry valve) but is it normal for oil to leak down into the exhaust ports around the valves? If that's not normal, what do you think would cause that and how could I fix it?

Anyone ever rebuilt a 2.5L Petrol (17H) engine? I have the green bible guide, but was looking for a rebuild thread or rebuild guide with pictures, etc.

Thanks fellas - I think this is exactly the information I needed. If I still can't figure it out based on the responses then I'll post a picture of the gauge and all the details.

Just overhauled my Weber 32/32 DMTL carb on my 1988 2.5L petrol - upon disassembly I found there was no fuel filter element installed. I have a new filter in my overhaul kit but now I don't know where to fit it, and the technical diagram isn't detailed enough to show me. Does anyone know where the carb fuel filter should go? Does it go right behind the primary fuel line input? Any help would be appreciate, thanks!

I have a 1988 Defender 90 with a 2.5 petrol motor that I would like to add a tachometer/RPM gauge to - I have already purchased the gauge and plan to fit it where the clock is in the dash. Has anyone ever fit a tachometer to an engine before? I can figure out how to power it electrically, but I'm not sure how to mechanically connect it to the motor so it reads the correct RPM. Thanks!

I'm swapping the chassis for a new galvanized one and I'm wondering if anybody knows of a place to buy a kit of all the different little clips you need? I'm finding it quite laborious to look up each clip in the parts book and then order them one at a time...

Gentlemen- I recently removed my rear prop shaft to remove the diff cover for some painting, etc. Once I removed the rear prop I found that there was some noticeable play on the flange coming out of the rear diff. I could move it back and forth a good 10 degrees. This was not the UJs on the prop shaft, the prop shaft was removed. So my questions is how much play should there be in the rear diff at the flange which connects to the rear prop?

I'm doing a chassis swap on my 88 LR 90, was originally going to use a 2-post lift to separate the body and chassis, but that arrangement fell through. Now I am forced to do it in my garage without a 2-post lift. Has anyone ever accomplished this without use of a 2-post lift?

Just bought a new galvanized chassis from Marsland to fit to my LR Defender 90. I'd like to paint it black to protect it further from rust and also cover up the shiny galvanized metal. I was going to use POR-15 products to clean, etch, and paint it, but I spoke with POR-15 technicians and they definitely don't recommend their products for galvanized metal. What is they best way to clean, etch/prime, and then paint a galvanized chassis? What products specifically? What have others done that worked well?