neil110

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neil110 last won the day on January 28

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About neil110

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    Old Hand
  • Birthday 11/11/1955

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  • Location
    Yorkshire

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    Land Rover

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  1. I find they tend to mask problems, if for instance you have a leaking piston seal, it is hidden away behind the shield. Still haven't quite worked out why I get through 4 sets of rear pads for each set of fronts though
  2. I get that bit, the point I was trying to make is that the amount of money the insurance company wanted the following year basically charged my normal premium, plus the entire value of the accident damage claim they had paid. Thus in effect I had paid them the premium and the excess, they were just trying to recover their entire cost The other thing that galls me is that supposedly they are insuring the driver. Yet when there is a total loss claim, the policy stops and a new policy has to be taken out for the replacement vehicle
  3. We talked about this at work and came to the conclusion that the premium you pay when you have the max no claims discount is what the insurance company needs to provide you with insurance whilst still making a profit. Everything above that is pure profit. Had a crash, years ago, dropped a bike in pouring rain on the A5. Repairs, after paying the excess, came to £1012. premium had been £247. The renewal quote for the premium was £1259.
  4. Used to get a peculiar symptom from the clutch pedal before changing the tubular exhaust manifolds on my 110. The previous manifold on the relevant side was practically touching the slave cylinder. I had it wrapped in several layers of heat wrap. When stooging around town in traffic, the pedal feel would get gradually worse, then the peculiar fault, depress the pedal, change gear, take foot off pedal and pedal stays on the floor. The gear would engage and the truck would drive fine. a tap on the pedal with a toe would bring it back up to the normal position. Since replacing the manifold for a cast item with a different down pipe I have not had a repetition of the problem
  5. If you have to have 7.50 X 16 there are a few options available. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres-7.5-R-16/?m[4]=on&m[18]=on
  6. Given that JATE is the acronym for Joint Air Transport Establishment. I would imagine that this is what they were designed for If the bolts are 12.9 type and thus possess a tensile strength of 12,000mPa and if the shear is approx 0.63 of tensile then the shear strength of each retaining bolt is 7,440 mPa or 7.44KN per mm2
  7. From Ashcroft website. This type can also be fitted to early Disco I's but you will need to make a small machining mod to the stub for clearance, we are able to provide details of this for you. The overall length measurement is 236mm
  8. Last time I bought a new car, the only non cost option was a peculiar shade of yellow. Any other colour was an additional 500 pounds, this on a car that only cost 6000. I told them I didn't want the yellow and flat out refused to pay for an alternative colour. Basically told them I wouldn't pay extra for the car to be painted and they could send it in bare metal for all I cared. Eventually got a purplish coloured car that was a cancelled order.
  9. Saw a D5 today for the first time and was struck by how deep the doors are and how silly the back end looks, if the front end had not been badged "Discovery" I would have struggled to put a name to it. I only noticed it because it was coloured. I realised yesterday how very few coloured cars there are. I was walking a long a street and spotted 8 black cars parked in a row. Having nothing better to do I walked back to the start of the street and counted all the cars on the street. 132 were either black, white or a shade of grey, 31 were coloured and of those the majority were red. Pretty much all of them were insipid, unadventurous designs and looked drab. The coloured cars tended to be older as well.
  10. If you cannot find one I have a drum salisbury cluttering up my garage floor. It has new bearings and seals in the hubs. No half shafts, brakes or diff cover.
  11. Wrong shape rear reflector, back lights wrong type, wrong type of cable used for wiring, carppy crimp on connectors, dodgy aluminium ducting for air intake, the previously mentioned checquer plate. If you want top money for a nut and bolt restoration, then it really ought to be perfect.
  12. I have a freelander radio for my Defender and the digital dashboard display (woohoo all mod cons here) However, what I do not have is the lead which links the two together, or the part number for said lead. Can anybody help, please?
  13. I suppose the possibility exists that you have a faulty Unit. The description of the flasher PRC8876 is that it is the heavy duty unit for defender and RR classic. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/225380/0/flasher_unit_with_trailer_heavy_duty___range_rover_classic___defender
  14. Mine (One_Ten) does that if I take it to full lock and hold it there. As soon as I release the steering wheel it stops hissing. Maybe, there is something tight in your steering box?
  15. The later swivel housings AFAIK have neither a hole for topping them up or a hole for draining them which means you are really stuck if anything goes wrong