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neil110 last won the day on July 20

neil110 had the most liked content!

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About neil110

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    Old Hand
  • Birthday 11/11/1955

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  • Location
    Auvergne, France

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    Land Rover

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  1. You can just about make them out between "airmiles" andy and queenie with another just behind the 2nd row door
  2. Not quite on topic, but sort of related. A friend wanted a different steering wheel for his Maclaren. The car has whole vehicle type approval. The cost of a replacement steering wheel? £30,000. Because it had to go through the entire process in order to be approved for fitting to the car
  3. Ashcroft offer shafts for both early and late variants of the salisbury (Dana) axle.
  4. The cap is sealing the T piece and has never leaked a drop in the umm 5 years it has been on there. yes that is the windscreen washer hose wrapped around the heater pipes. Keeps it from freezing in winter and seems to help the screen wash cut through the grease/sap better during summer.. Some of those kits on the bay of flea as well.
  5. It is from a kit I bought at Walmart during the period I lived in America. If you screw the cap off, you can then screw on a small yellow fitting, the garden hose clips onto that. I would imagine that most of the bits would be available from your local garden centre. Alternatively it may be possible to order it from Walmart.
  6. I have a permanently fitted inlet point in the return hose from my heater. Plug your garden hose into it and turn the water on, remove the filler plug at the top of the rad and everything gets back flushed out of the system
  7. I can't see why it wouldn't, after all people have put GMC 6.5l V8 diesels in there, the V8 from a Corvette has been inserted under the bonnet of a 90 by Twisted and JE have dropped a 4.7 litre supercharged jaguar lump into a 110
  8. I fitted a TD5 bulkhead, to my 1984 One_Ten and it had the earthing point to which Western refers. Though a better idea is the one used by a friend. He managed to get hold of a piece of the earth bar from a commercial switch panel. Took all his body earth cables back to that and then a big cable from that bar to the chassis. Even if, strictly speaking, there is no earth on a vehicle. It is a neutral return
  9. Rather than looking for vans or couriers look up freight companies. I had a Salisbury axle delivered to em from Kent to Yorkshire for about £40 from memory. Similarly I had my 110 delivered from Chatham docks to Middlesbrough for £200. Which is probably less than it would have cost me in Petrol to drive it that distance, not that driving was an option because it was on American plates at the time, that was organised through Shiply
  10. Having done a similar thing many years ago, before going back to the thicker flanges all round, I am sure I just swapped the drive members and kept the same half shafts. i have vague recollections of the shafts butting up against each other in the diff, but there being just enough free movement
  11. They are the best kind of problem
  12. This reminds me of a couple of things: I spotted something on a LR parts supplier website and placed an order for it. No sign of order for some considerable time so I rang them to see what was going on. Which was when they told me that they had only had a few of the item in question and it had sold out ohh 3 months ago. Another was a colleague, his 2 cars were written off when they drowned in a flood. He didn't really know what he fancied as replacements so went round various dealers to see what was whet, look at some cars, test drives that sort of stuff. Of all the dealers he visited, only 2 rang him back, Skoda and Subaru. Which is why he drives a Subaru and his wife drives a Skoda. I like Dunsfold, and Brit car are pretty good as well. I had a radiator failure when the truck was in USA. They (brit car) sent me a rad within days and couldn't have been more helpful when the new rad failed within a matter of days (poor soldering round the filler plug hole) Sent me another rad immediately and advised me how to get the original rad back to them by the cheapest method available. Because of the time difference a lot of this was sorted out by email.
  13. My LR manual gives a torque setting of 48-59 lbf/ft for the aforementioned bolts, though they are flanged bolts and the underside of the flanges is serrated
  14. Sorry, I misunderstood your meaning. The printed word can be a bit flat sometimes and the deeper meaning of what is written can go astray. I made a mistake, I have only had the vehicle for 19 years rather than the 20 I suggested and got to thinking about the handbrake last night. I replaced the original LT95 gearbox with a R380 when I found I was arriving everywhere TALKING LIKE THIS, because the original box was so noisy. That would be in 1998, which was when the LT230 T box and handbrake assembly from a 300 tdi was also fitted. During the intervening period I think I have adjusted the handbrake about 3 times, usually because the cable has stretched rather than any wear of the shoes. Each time I have had to remove the rear prop, for any reason, I take the drum off to have a look inside and look to see that all is as it ought to be. Similarly, about once a month I crawl under the truck and just lie there looking at things, stuff like shock absorbers, brake pipes, exhaust system (and I would be a happy man if I could find a way of fastening the middle box to the Y pipe with something that doesn't work loose, even using castle nuts and split pins on the bolts has not prevented it from working loose and leaking) I digress, it all serves to help keep an eye on things and hopefully nip in the bud any potential failure. I have been around Land Rovers as driver, owner and maintainer for far more years than I care to remember (alright 48) and I have never come across a Handbrake back plate working loose before. But as somebody once said. Anything that ever had another thing fastened to it has had that thing fall off. I agree completely with the principle of not ignoring any noise, especially new noises. If it didn't do it yesterday, why has it started doing it today? Yes trying to locate some of them drives me to distraction, sometimes, but far better that than a potential catastrophic failure at some later date
  15. Not sure where in the maintenance schedule it suggests that you check the security of the handbrake backplate retaining bolts. I wonder when you last checked yours? Bearing in mind this hand brake back plate has been on there, without any trouble, for nearly 20 years why would my first guess be that the bolts had worked loose?