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neil110 last won the day on January 28

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About neil110

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    Old Hand
  • Birthday 11/11/1955

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    Land Rover

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  1. Thank you for the suggestion Ralph. Turned out to be the flasher unit. Removed it, accidentally dropped it, refitted it and all was restored
  2. Right, from the top. Carling hazard switch fitted, indicators work, hazards don't. 12v at green when ignition is on, 12v at purple when ignition is switched on or off When switching hazards on, indicators stop working. Removed the green and the light green wires from the switch, indicators don't work at all. Removing any or all of the other wires has no effect at all on the indiocators Connected green to light green through a fuse and not via the switch. Indicators work and hazards work, but hazards only work when the ignition is switched on. Connected light green pin to the fuse holder where the green and light green are connected, hazards work with the ignition off, but the oil pressure, hand brake warning and charging light come on as well Any thoughts chaps, please? MoT on Tuesday and this is the first time I have tried using the hazards since the test last year
  3. I know a friend was seriously Peed off when he found out that his VW was in constant communication with their dealer network.
  4. There is an unlooked for feature when you switch to the later hook type arm/blade combination. The requirement to remove the spare wheel in order to change the wiper blade. As far as I can make out the rear wiper arm is This is still a bolt on fit, the same as the older arm.
  5. Typically military rebuilt engines are painted in a pale turquoise colour. The terracotta red of yours is the colour it would have been painted at the LR factory. The military 109 was designated as a 3/4 ton vehicle but apart from the CL spec vehicles they all had heavy duty suspension
  6. The type of wiper blade you seek is still available.
  7. Thanks. To be honest it was not the case that the earth was missing, neither had it become detached, it was simply that the knurled nut had worked loose. I was worried because the ambient temperatures were over 37 Deg C and I thought I had a cooling problem
  8. Not sure if it will be the same on a series vehicle as my 110 but I had some problems getting sensible readings from the engine temperature gauge. It would go to the top of the red section within a couple of minutes of starting the engine. The "fix" was to earth the metal case of the gauge.
  9. No, this is every 110 I have ever had over the last 25 years. they have all gone through rear pads faster than front. Still the case with stainless pistons all ropund
  10. Are they electric gauges or capillary?
  11. Wasn't it a jeep that was hacked into whilst being driven and control taken over by somebody sat at a keyboard?
  12. I find they tend to mask problems, if for instance you have a leaking piston seal, it is hidden away behind the shield. Still haven't quite worked out why I get through 4 sets of rear pads for each set of fronts though
  13. I get that bit, the point I was trying to make is that the amount of money the insurance company wanted the following year basically charged my normal premium, plus the entire value of the accident damage claim they had paid. Thus in effect I had paid them the premium and the excess, they were just trying to recover their entire cost The other thing that galls me is that supposedly they are insuring the driver. Yet when there is a total loss claim, the policy stops and a new policy has to be taken out for the replacement vehicle
  14. We talked about this at work and came to the conclusion that the premium you pay when you have the max no claims discount is what the insurance company needs to provide you with insurance whilst still making a profit. Everything above that is pure profit. Had a crash, years ago, dropped a bike in pouring rain on the A5. Repairs, after paying the excess, came to £1012. premium had been £247. The renewal quote for the premium was £1259.
  15. Used to get a peculiar symptom from the clutch pedal before changing the tubular exhaust manifolds on my 110. The previous manifold on the relevant side was practically touching the slave cylinder. I had it wrapped in several layers of heat wrap. When stooging around town in traffic, the pedal feel would get gradually worse, then the peculiar fault, depress the pedal, change gear, take foot off pedal and pedal stays on the floor. The gear would engage and the truck would drive fine. a tap on the pedal with a toe would bring it back up to the normal position. Since replacing the manifold for a cast item with a different down pipe I have not had a repetition of the problem