neil110

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Everything posted by neil110

  1. Right, from the top. Carling hazard switch fitted, indicators work, hazards don't. 12v at green when ignition is on, 12v at purple when ignition is switched on or off When switching hazards on, indicators stop working. Removed the green and the light green wires from the switch, indicators don't work at all. Removing any or all of the other wires has no effect at all on the indiocators Connected green to light green through a fuse and not via the switch. Indicators work and hazards work, but hazards only work when the ignition is switched on. Connected light green pin to the fuse holder where the green and light green are connected, hazards work with the ignition off, but the oil pressure, hand brake warning and charging light come on as well Any thoughts chaps, please? MoT on Tuesday and this is the first time I have tried using the hazards since the test last year
  2. Thank you for the suggestion Ralph. Turned out to be the flasher unit. Removed it, accidentally dropped it, refitted it and all was restored
  3. I know a friend was seriously Peed off when he found out that his VW was in constant communication with their dealer network. https://www.theverge.com/2016/8/2/12353186/car-hack-jeep-cherokee-vulnerability-miller-valasek
  4. There is an unlooked for feature when you switch to the later hook type arm/blade combination. The requirement to remove the spare wheel in order to change the wiper blade. As far as I can make out the rear wiper arm is http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=DKB000371PMD This is still a bolt on fit, the same as the older arm.
  5. Typically military rebuilt engines are painted in a pale turquoise colour. The terracotta red of yours is the colour it would have been painted at the LR factory. The military 109 was designated as a 3/4 ton vehicle but apart from the CL spec vehicles they all had heavy duty suspension
  6. The type of wiper blade you seek is still available. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=rtc6856&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10
  7. Thanks. To be honest it was not the case that the earth was missing, neither had it become detached, it was simply that the knurled nut had worked loose. I was worried because the ambient temperatures were over 37 Deg C and I thought I had a cooling problem
  8. Not sure if it will be the same on a series vehicle as my 110 but I had some problems getting sensible readings from the engine temperature gauge. It would go to the top of the red section within a couple of minutes of starting the engine. The "fix" was to earth the metal case of the gauge.
  9. No, this is every 110 I have ever had over the last 25 years. they have all gone through rear pads faster than front. Still the case with stainless pistons all ropund
  10. Are they electric gauges or capillary?
  11. Wasn't it a jeep that was hacked into whilst being driven and control taken over by somebody sat at a keyboard?
  12. I find they tend to mask problems, if for instance you have a leaking piston seal, it is hidden away behind the shield. Still haven't quite worked out why I get through 4 sets of rear pads for each set of fronts though
  13. I get that bit, the point I was trying to make is that the amount of money the insurance company wanted the following year basically charged my normal premium, plus the entire value of the accident damage claim they had paid. Thus in effect I had paid them the premium and the excess, they were just trying to recover their entire cost The other thing that galls me is that supposedly they are insuring the driver. Yet when there is a total loss claim, the policy stops and a new policy has to be taken out for the replacement vehicle
  14. We talked about this at work and came to the conclusion that the premium you pay when you have the max no claims discount is what the insurance company needs to provide you with insurance whilst still making a profit. Everything above that is pure profit. Had a crash, years ago, dropped a bike in pouring rain on the A5. Repairs, after paying the excess, came to £1012. premium had been £247. The renewal quote for the premium was £1259.
  15. Used to get a peculiar symptom from the clutch pedal before changing the tubular exhaust manifolds on my 110. The previous manifold on the relevant side was practically touching the slave cylinder. I had it wrapped in several layers of heat wrap. When stooging around town in traffic, the pedal feel would get gradually worse, then the peculiar fault, depress the pedal, change gear, take foot off pedal and pedal stays on the floor. The gear would engage and the truck would drive fine. a tap on the pedal with a toe would bring it back up to the normal position. Since replacing the manifold for a cast item with a different down pipe I have not had a repetition of the problem
  16. If you have to have 7.50 X 16 there are a few options available. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres-7.5-R-16/?m[4]=on&m[18]=on
  17. Given that JATE is the acronym for Joint Air Transport Establishment. I would imagine that this is what they were designed for If the bolts are 12.9 type and thus possess a tensile strength of 12,000mPa and if the shear is approx 0.63 of tensile then the shear strength of each retaining bolt is 7,440 mPa or 7.44KN per mm2
  18. From Ashcroft website. This type can also be fitted to early Disco I's but you will need to make a small machining mod to the stub for clearance, we are able to provide details of this for you. The overall length measurement is 236mm
  19. Last time I bought a new car, the only non cost option was a peculiar shade of yellow. Any other colour was an additional 500 pounds, this on a car that only cost 6000. I told them I didn't want the yellow and flat out refused to pay for an alternative colour. Basically told them I wouldn't pay extra for the car to be painted and they could send it in bare metal for all I cared. Eventually got a purplish coloured car that was a cancelled order.
  20. Saw a D5 today for the first time and was struck by how deep the doors are and how silly the back end looks, if the front end had not been badged "Discovery" I would have struggled to put a name to it. I only noticed it because it was coloured. I realised yesterday how very few coloured cars there are. I was walking a long a street and spotted 8 black cars parked in a row. Having nothing better to do I walked back to the start of the street and counted all the cars on the street. 132 were either black, white or a shade of grey, 31 were coloured and of those the majority were red. Pretty much all of them were insipid, unadventurous designs and looked drab. The coloured cars tended to be older as well.
  21. If you cannot find one I have a drum salisbury cluttering up my garage floor. It has new bearings and seals in the hubs. No half shafts, brakes or diff cover.
  22. Wrong shape rear reflector, back lights wrong type, wrong type of cable used for wiring, carppy crimp on connectors, dodgy aluminium ducting for air intake, the previously mentioned checquer plate. If you want top money for a nut and bolt restoration, then it really ought to be perfect.
  23. I have a freelander radio for my Defender and the digital dashboard display (woohoo all mod cons here) However, what I do not have is the lead which links the two together, or the part number for said lead. Can anybody help, please?
  24. I suppose the possibility exists that you have a faulty Unit. The description of the flasher PRC8876 is that it is the heavy duty unit for defender and RR classic. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/225380/0/flasher_unit_with_trailer_heavy_duty___range_rover_classic___defender
  25. Mine (One_Ten) does that if I take it to full lock and hold it there. As soon as I release the steering wheel it stops hissing. Maybe, there is something tight in your steering box?