neil110

Honestly it is a far better idea to pull the stub axle seal out and chuck it in a bin. Let the oil from the diff migrate along the half shaft and lubricate the wheel bearings. Just like Land Rovers of old did, right up to about 1994

From sepia tinted memory, there was something in the Des Hamill book about tuning the RV8 which suggested that increasing the oil pressure too much resulted in increased wear in the pump and horrible shearing things with the distributor drive gear retaining pin. Plus it did funny things to the tappets. Mine has been running the MG spring for about 7 years and 50,000+ miles without obvious ill effect, thus far

Whilst on the subject of oil pressure and the V8 Why is it so low in a Land Rover application? I have fitted the spring from the PRV of a V8 as fitted to the MG and the oil pressure is double that of the Land Rover

Given the logarithmic nature of the Db scale, an additional 3Db equates to a doubling in volume so an additional 97 Db is going to be 32 times louder. A bit like sticking your head inside the exhaust nozzle of a Saturn 5 at take off. https://www.alpinehearingprotection.com/wiki/5-sound-levels-in-decibels/

I sometimes find that when somebody drives very close behind me with any combination of high beam/fog/spot lamps on, I get all confused and end up selecting neutral.

If nobody on here has one laid around then as good a place to start as any other is https://www.pablanchard.co.uk Be warned they can be grumpy when on the phone, but they are knowledgeable and have lots of odd bits and pieces as does https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk

I have a 4.2 in mine and it is a far nicer engine to drive than the 3.5. It is also more economical. Not by a huge amount but when you are starting from a base line of 15mpg every little helps. Snag is that the 4.2 is a bit of a rarity in Land Rover guise. Far more of them went to places like TVR and other manufacturers

If you want ignition related components the place to go to is. http://www.simonbbc.com From memory of when I had a 3.9 cam in my 3.5 it gives a small increase in power. Something to do with the increased valve overlap.

if you need any information about SU carbs, this is the place to go to. http://sucarb.co.uk

The problem could lie with the gauge, the sender unit or the wiring between. It may be worth your while to spend a few pounds on a laser thermometer and check the temperature of various elements before getting too carried away with replacing things when you might not have a problem other than, say, the sender unit. I have vague memories of a similar problem some years ago and it turned out to be the final connection between wiring and sender unit

Spotted these on the bay of flea and they may be of interest to you. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Defender-Td5-O-S-Driver-side-front-door-Electric-windows-central-locking/142570438784?hash=item2131dc4080:g:95EAAOSwZlZaAi0c https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Defender-Td5-N-S-Passenger-side-front-door-Electric-windows-central-locking/132391005210?hash=item1ed31e6c1a:g:UzcAAOSwCcZaAi0P https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Defender-doors-110-second-row-land-rover/112513702209?hash=item1a3256d941:g:M7wAAOSwH4NZiBVE The change is not that difficult, I went the other way, from 1 piece doors to two piece doors with sliding windows

Not sure I like the sound of "once a few things have been attended to"

right here. I would hang on to the original though, because in years to come it might be worth quite a bit for somebody who wants complete originality https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Spin-On-Oil-Filter-Adaptor-Housing-HRC1369-FREE-UK-POST/311980751446?hash=item48a3807a56:g:Rs0AAOSwkVZZ4yGZ

Don't know if you are a member but apparently there is a sankey owners group on faceberk

A salisbury axle is typically fitted to the older 110 and 130 models and has a longer diff nose than the rover axle, which would mean that you would need a different propshaft and the operating angles on the UJs would be extreme. Don't forget that the rear axles from an early discovery will also fit

Yes I have the old pushrods to hand. Sadly the manufacturers have declined to put their brand on the box, but the items in question came from bearmach and were manufactured in USA. having spent another couple of hours on it today before the rain became just too ridiculous, I managed to get all of them below 60 thou but the pile of shims beneath the rocker shaft pedestals is worryingly thick. SO I have ordered some new pedestals and some adjustable pushrods. At least with the pushrods being adjustable I ought to be able to get a precise and similar preload on all of the lifters rather than the indiscriminate solution offered by shims

Thank you for the tip. I have been measuring them on the heel of the cam. Pushrods are new (Oem) Followers are new (OEM) Rockers are new (genuine) Rocker shafts are new but given that genuine are over £230 each I chose not to buy genuine. Sadly no old heads with which to compare Back to it, after a day off yesterday.

A pretty mild one I would have thought, a Kent H180. Having spent the afternoon pottering with shims I have managed to get the preload on the follower where I was taking all the measurements down within the upper limit of 60 thou, but at the expense of having 108 thou worth of shims beneath the rocker pedestals. The snag is that various other followers have no preload. I am going to replace the rocker pedestals (since they were the only components that were not replaced) and see if that makes the numbers more sensible. I have run a straight edge over the tops of the valves and they are all at the same installed height. I wonder if the discrepancy is within the pushrods (OEM) or the pedestals? Having previously owned a number of Laverda Jotas I am familiar with collapsing cam bearing pillars and wonder if the rocker shaft pedestals do a similar thing?

Inlet manifold bolt holes all line up, I haven't bolted it down yet because I haven't got past this detail thus far. Rockers are genuine and the shafts are oem, the pedestals came from the original engine. Measurements are being taken with a set of feelers narrowed and bent to fit in the available space. Heads came fully assembled from Turner

7.62, my favourite number! Especially when it comes with a copper jacket and a red tip! Cam follower on the heel of the cam, completely empty of oil and measuring the gap between the top of the pushrod cup and the circlip. New cam, new followers, new pushrods, new rocker arms, new rocker shafts, new valves, new heads (Turner engineering) composite head gaskets and everything torqued down as per factory manual. Foo foo in original post. I have been reading things back to front. I know how to reduce the measurment, but that number, or thickness, of shims is going to be significant. Adjustable pushrods might be the way forward

Just fited a new cam, new heads, rocker shafts, rockers, valves, pushrods and everything else that is valve train related. Went to check the lifter preload, with the valve lifter on the heel of the cam, the suggested figure is 40-60 thou. Mine are approaching 300, how do i reduce that? All the articles I have seen are for increasing it,

If I replace my existing tin head gaskets with composite gaskets, how much difference will that make to my compression ratio, please?

You could even use series doors after a bit of fettling to fit the relevant latches

I am trying to work something out with relation to fans. If anybody out there has a 300 Tdi could you, please, tell me the diameter of the fan pulley and the crankshaft pulley. Thank you gentlemen

failing that, talk to this fella, what he doesn't know about V8 injection systems and wiring isn't worth knowing. http://www.tornadosystems.com/product/14-cux-tornado-chip-3-9-land-rover-and-range-rover/