neil110

I fitted a TD5 bulkhead, to my 1984 One_Ten and it had the earthing point to which Western refers. Though a better idea is the one used by a friend. He managed to get hold of a piece of the earth bar from a commercial switch panel. Took all his body earth cables back to that and then a big cable from that bar to the chassis. Even if, strictly speaking, there is no earth on a vehicle. It is a neutral return

Rather than looking for vans or couriers look up freight companies. I had a Salisbury axle delivered to em from Kent to Yorkshire for about £40 from memory. Similarly I had my 110 delivered from Chatham docks to Middlesbrough for £200. Which is probably less than it would have cost me in Petrol to drive it that distance, not that driving was an option because it was on American plates at the time, that was organised through Shiply

Having done a similar thing many years ago, before going back to the thicker flanges all round, I am sure I just swapped the drive members and kept the same half shafts. i have vague recollections of the shafts butting up against each other in the diff, but there being just enough free movement

They are the best kind of problem

This reminds me of a couple of things: I spotted something on a LR parts supplier website and placed an order for it. No sign of order for some considerable time so I rang them to see what was going on. Which was when they told me that they had only had a few of the item in question and it had sold out ohh 3 months ago. Another was a colleague, his 2 cars were written off when they drowned in a flood. He didn't really know what he fancied as replacements so went round various dealers to see what was whet, look at some cars, test drives that sort of stuff. Of all the dealers he visited, only 2 rang him back, Skoda and Subaru. Which is why he drives a Subaru and his wife drives a Skoda. I like Dunsfold, and Brit car are pretty good as well. I had a radiator failure when the truck was in USA. They (brit car) sent me a rad within days and couldn't have been more helpful when the new rad failed within a matter of days (poor soldering round the filler plug hole) Sent me another rad immediately and advised me how to get the original rad back to them by the cheapest method available. Because of the time difference a lot of this was sorted out by email.

My LR manual gives a torque setting of 48-59 lbf/ft for the aforementioned bolts, though they are flanged bolts and the underside of the flanges is serrated

Sorry, I misunderstood your meaning. The printed word can be a bit flat sometimes and the deeper meaning of what is written can go astray. I made a mistake, I have only had the vehicle for 19 years rather than the 20 I suggested and got to thinking about the handbrake last night. I replaced the original LT95 gearbox with a R380 when I found I was arriving everywhere TALKING LIKE THIS, because the original box was so noisy. That would be in 1998, which was when the LT230 T box and handbrake assembly from a 300 tdi was also fitted. During the intervening period I think I have adjusted the handbrake about 3 times, usually because the cable has stretched rather than any wear of the shoes. Each time I have had to remove the rear prop, for any reason, I take the drum off to have a look inside and look to see that all is as it ought to be. Similarly, about once a month I crawl under the truck and just lie there looking at things, stuff like shock absorbers, brake pipes, exhaust system (and I would be a happy man if I could find a way of fastening the middle box to the Y pipe with something that doesn't work loose, even using castle nuts and split pins on the bolts has not prevented it from working loose and leaking) I digress, it all serves to help keep an eye on things and hopefully nip in the bud any potential failure. I have been around Land Rovers as driver, owner and maintainer for far more years than I care to remember (alright 48) and I have never come across a Handbrake back plate working loose before. But as somebody once said. Anything that ever had another thing fastened to it has had that thing fall off. I agree completely with the principle of not ignoring any noise, especially new noises. If it didn't do it yesterday, why has it started doing it today? Yes trying to locate some of them drives me to distraction, sometimes, but far better that than a potential catastrophic failure at some later date

Not sure where in the maintenance schedule it suggests that you check the security of the handbrake backplate retaining bolts. I wonder when you last checked yours? Bearing in mind this hand brake back plate has been on there, without any trouble, for nearly 20 years why would my first guess be that the bolts had worked loose?

Just a couple of by the by bits of info. With the 300 they are all the same whether they are originally from a Defender or a Discovery (apart from things like the EDC) The R380 is mounted on the gearbox Xmember in the Defender application. A friend recently replaced a 200 with a 300 and is using the engine mounts from the 200 plus some bespoke brackets because he did not want to weld his galv chassis. The vibration levels are horrendous!

For a little while my hand brake had been making some noise, initially just after a prolonged period of rain. My first thought was that the drum had become a little rusty, a theory borne out by the noise disappearing when the hand brake was gently applied. Over the next few days the noise came and went, sometimes a light rubbing noise, others a light tinkling noise, so now my thinking is that perhaps a spring has broken and the remnants are rolling around inside the drum. Thinks to self, better get under there and check before it jams or something equally unpleasant. Then the noise stopped, so now my thinking is that perhaps a small piece of gravel had managed to get betwixt drum and backplate, has been spat out and the noise is no more. Yesterday it came back, intermittently, again, a light tinkling noise, occasionally a scraping noise. Today I finally got my lazy self under the truck to have a look, dropped the rear prop away from the hand brake, removed the two screws and tried to pull the drum off, wouldn't come. Went and put some new batteries in my head light so I could have a better look at what was going on. Turns out that the drum is failing to separate from the back late because the back plate is trying to come with it. A bit of jiggery pokery managed to split them and then I saw the cause of all my noises/problems. Three of the back plate retaining bolts had fallen out and the 4th was very loose. There didn't appear to be any damage so I retrieved the three bolts, cleaned them up, applied a dash of loctite and refitted them, removed the 4th bolt, cleaned it up, loctite etc and torqued all 4 to the prescribed value. Refitted drum, prop, using new nyloc retaining nuts, and adjusted hand brake. All noises gone. Whilst the back plate is held in place and cannot really go anywhere because the drum is located by the 4 bolts for the rear prop and will prevent it from falling off, I dread to think what might happen if the 4th bolt had joined its 3 contemporaries. Especially as I well remember, from my army days, a chap trying to perform a hand brake turn in a 109. The consequences were remarkable and quite rapid in the way they unfolded, Something sheared, the rear prop fell away from the hand brake and dug into the ground, flipping the 109 onto its side.

Simpler than that, if you unbolt the flanges and lift them off, without removing the circlip, the shaft will come with them

Not sure if anybody does better half shafts but if it helps set your mind at ease I have had Ashcroft half shafts and drive members fitted to my back axle for 8 years without any problems whatsoever. Though when I had it all in bits I removed the stub axle oil seals and it now runs wet hubs In a previous incarnation it had dry hubs, 300 type drive members, stubs and seals. A half shaft failed because of condensation in the end of the axle emulsifying the grease, leading to the half shaft and drive member rusting away

looking at the pic I suppose there is a possibility that the chassis might have suffered some damage and be bent.

And it will probably use a lot less petrol than a Rover V8. That said, £20,000 pays for a lot of fuel Or £150,000 in this case. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/land-rover/defender/first-drives/2016-je-motorworks-zulu2-110-review

The amount of slop that can develop in the driveline can be quite significant. A little bit on the sliding joint, some between pinion and crown wheel, a bit between diff and half shaft, some more between half shaft and drive member. It can quite enlightening to lie beneath the truck, with the back axle on stands and see how far you can turn the prop shaft before the wheels start to rotate

This is the most recent one I could find, from the 2007 model year on parts list. http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235/674/675/155

Many years ago I had problems with an insurance repair and rejected it several times before the insurance company would agree to let me do the repair myself. Despite what insurers tell you, there is no reason why you cannot select your preferred repair centre

Unless things have changed markedly since I retired, that is one of the problems we had with computer controlled systems, their inability to predict events in a constantly changing environment

Thank you for the suggestion Ralph. Turned out to be the flasher unit. Removed it, accidentally dropped it, refitted it and all was restored

Right, from the top. Carling hazard switch fitted, indicators work, hazards don't. 12v at green when ignition is on, 12v at purple when ignition is switched on or off When switching hazards on, indicators stop working. Removed the green and the light green wires from the switch, indicators don't work at all. Removing any or all of the other wires has no effect at all on the indiocators Connected green to light green through a fuse and not via the switch. Indicators work and hazards work, but hazards only work when the ignition is switched on. Connected light green pin to the fuse holder where the green and light green are connected, hazards work with the ignition off, but the oil pressure, hand brake warning and charging light come on as well Any thoughts chaps, please? MoT on Tuesday and this is the first time I have tried using the hazards since the test last year

I know a friend was seriously Peed off when he found out that his VW was in constant communication with their dealer network. https://www.theverge.com/2016/8/2/12353186/car-hack-jeep-cherokee-vulnerability-miller-valasek

There is an unlooked for feature when you switch to the later hook type arm/blade combination. The requirement to remove the spare wheel in order to change the wiper blade. As far as I can make out the rear wiper arm is http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=DKB000371PMD This is still a bolt on fit, the same as the older arm.

Typically military rebuilt engines are painted in a pale turquoise colour. The terracotta red of yours is the colour it would have been painted at the LR factory. The military 109 was designated as a 3/4 ton vehicle but apart from the CL spec vehicles they all had heavy duty suspension

The type of wiper blade you seek is still available. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=rtc6856&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10

Thanks. To be honest it was not the case that the earth was missing, neither had it become detached, it was simply that the knurled nut had worked loose. I was worried because the ambient temperatures were over 37 Deg C and I thought I had a cooling problem