neil110

your best bet might be to take them to your local branch of Pirtek. I have always found them to very knowledgeable and helpful https://www.pirtek.co.uk

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/2021-ineos-grenadier-first-prototype-caught-testing-disguise

As far as I am aware the fitment of the cable at the transfer box end has always been the same on a Defender. Later models dispensed with the cable and used an electrical "sender" unit, but in the past I have removed one of the sender units and replaced it with the standard speedo drive gear and cable without any problems. Again as far as I know such differences as there were are between left hand and right hand drive vehicles, plus variations in length because of the different engines involved and differing sizes of bell housings. They all employ the same drive mechanism

Nah, if you are replacing them the early galvanised ones are far superior

Changed a V8 from carbs to efi years ago so might be able to answer some of your questions. Yes you need the road speed transducer the best colour gear to use is the one you already have fitted to your existing transfer box If you have a branch of Pirtek local to you, they will be able to fit your oil cooler pipes with the proper fixings for a small price, though there is nothing wrong with jubilee clips There are 3 different temperature guages listed but they change with chassis number, not engine type. The sender unit for a 200 is a different part No to the V8 and I have had numerous sender units in my V8, one of which talks to the gauge sensibly, the remainder do not. The relevant part being PRC2506 It will be immediately obvious if they aren't talking to each other sensibly

Haven't had gaskets on mine for years. I use this. https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/elring-dirko-sealant-sealing-compound-c2x20634602

then for whatever reason the cable is not being driven by the gear in the transfer box, either because the cable drive is worn out or there is a problem in the transfer box itself. I would guess the square drive socket within the gear is no longer square or the end of the cable which goes into the drive is no longer square

I had something similar with mine and it turned out to be the slave cylinder pipe sitting too close to the exhaust pipe and getting 'kin hot

no great loss it lost its appeal about 10 years ago

There are 2 different types of lower links, hollow and solid. They MUST NOT be mixed. NTC4720 solid NTC8328 hollow However there is only 1 part No for the nut NY120041l which supercedes to NY120064 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/418550/0/nut_m20_nylock

Thought they all had vented front discs in that era, however. This is one of them, look familiar? https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/91938/0/brake_caliper_right_hand_front___non_vented_defender and this is the other. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/96296/0/brake_caliper_left_hand_front___non_vented_defender_

it has seen better days but my suggestion is that the colour of this 1997 truck is County green. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-Land-Rover-Defender-County-Station-Wagon-110-300tdi-spare-wing/124156385247?hash=item1ce84c17df:g:OTMAAOSw7kFehPSL

The replacement of the collapsible spacer with a solid type makes sense, provided you have access to accurate measuring equipment and the means of making a solid spacer. Had I been retaining the original gear and bearings that is what I would have done, measured up the spacer which was removed then have a friend make a solid type on a lathe. I imagine the change was made to take the guesswork out of fitting the collapsible type spacer. Simply follow the measuring procedure in the manual, do the sums and select the correct spacer from the 20 or so that are available and fasten it all back together.

Did you measure the thickness of the replacement bearings? Did you measure the step distance on the special tool after you had fitted the bearing tracks and "settled" the bearings?

You could always look up the relevant parts here. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-cooling-heating/oil-cooler-engine

Yes, I have a DTI and a micrometer, the special tool is £53 from JLR https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com/en-GB/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=307-484 If i was simply refitting the existing gearset I was going to have a friend turn me up a spacer the same size as the collapsible spacer that came out. However I am changing the gear ratio which will necessitate fitting new bearings, for the intermediate gear, so it seems sensible to follow the latest, or current, practice when putting it all back together.

Loads of green colours been used over the years, these might help you. I can tell you that it is not: Willow, Eastnor, Coniston, Giverney or Trident. Initially there were only 2 metallic colours available on Defenders and only on 110 CSW at that. So it might be County green, which was a very dark green, the only other option available at the time was a very dark metallic red https://www.defender-landrover.co.uk/p/paint-codes.html https://rimmerbros.com/images/Land_Rover_Paint_Charts/LR_Paint_Key_Defender83.pdf

http://www.d2owner.com/Manuals/LT230T Transfer Gearbox.pdf Page 43 contains the relevant information The vehicle is a 1984 One_Ten fitted with 4.2 V8, R380 and 22D LT230 suffix "G"

Fair enough but given the caution in the manual which specifically says do not use a collapsible spacer...........................

Thanks Ralph. The manual covers the following transfer boxes Serial No. Prefixes: 20D, 22D, 32D, 43D, 47D, 56D, 57D, 58D, 59D, and 60D - Defender Serial No. Prefixes: 28D, 34D, 41D, 42D Discovery Serial No. Prefixes: 14D, 15D, 20D, 26D, 27D, 28D and 30D - Range Rover Classic It also details how to measure up for which spacer you need, requires a special tool, a micrometer and a dial gauge. The special tool is a bit spendy but worth it for peace of mind I will just have to wait until it is all measured up and go to a dealer for the relevant part

According to the LR LT230 overhaul manual (CAUTION: The spacer fitted must be of the selective length, non-collapsible type, DO NOT fit a collapsible spacer) they have stopped using the collapsible spacer and you now have to choose a spacer of a pre determined length. There are 40 to choose from but I have not been able to find a part No for any of them. Can anybody point me in the right direction, please?

I have had a set of Magnecor leads fitted for umm 10 years and nearly 85,000 miles. Thought it might be a good idea to replace them recently when I fitted new cap and rotor arm, bought genuine Lucas leads. It ran like a sick dog, took the Lucas leads off and put the magnecor back on, normal running restored. Yes they are 'kin expensive but worth it

course you could always use this. https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html

especially when you can get them for this price. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/79467/0/headlamp_surround_bezel___series_111

Why do you need the plate? It is only there to cover a hole in the later type front ends. Presumably your 200 will not have such holes? Early: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/91496/0/front_wing_headlamp_panel_right_hand_front_series_111___defender_upto_vin_la Late: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/618873/0/headlamp_mounting_panel_right_hand_defender_from_vin_xa_on