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neil110

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Everything posted by neil110

  1. Raised air intakes were not intended for wading. They were originally designed for use in dusty/Sandy environments where their function was to separate at least some of the dust from the air, before it reached the filter, thus prolonging the service life of said filter. It was noticeable that military Land Rovers sprouted RAI during the gulf wars, before that the only military Land Rovers fitted with RAI were those used by the Royal Marines for beach landings and the like
  2. I think before I started drilling anything, I would be 'phoning Richard's chassis and having a few words with them.
  3. A possible alternative to the above is the position of the lever on the shaft. It will all make a lot more sense after you have removed the rubber gear lever gaiter and the sound deadening pad from the base of the levers
  4. Twin Land Rover horns, 1 high tone and 1 low tone
  5. The block on mine 300, bought new in March 1994, was black
  6. Yes, possibly a bit lighter if there is any difference at all.
  7. The clutch in mine is an AP racing clutch. Been in there a couple of years and is an absolute delight
  8. Another one that is as bent as a 9 Bob note (45p coin for our younger viewers) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-defender-90-200-tdi-no-mot-with-or-with-out-id-price-is-with-out-id/113672216541?hash=item1a77645fdd:g:am4AAOSw651cJ7PG&redirect=mobile
  9. T seals would tend to leak between the back of the sump and the front of the flywheel housing and would only leak while engine has sufficient oil to reach that level and whilst running. Find it difficult to believe it dumped half a gallon of oil on the floor while the engine wasn't running. That would suggest the flywheel housing was full of oil and a replacement clutch would be needed as well
  10. That is what happens with the ignition on my V8, everything else on the truck is switched off while the engine is cranking and the engine fires after releasing the ignition key. In ignition position it energises a relay which engages the starter solenoid
  11. Dazzling array of part nos there. Not sure if this one is included but it might go some way to answering your question. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/828
  12. I wouldn't touch a double S system with yours. Had one on My 110 and it was an absolute pile of festering dog carp. It was a dreadful fit, one of the welds on the manifolds cracked and it rusted.
  13. This one is a bit cheaper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Land-Rover-Headlamp-Dim-DIP-ECU-PRC8123/644662204?iid=401719561202 Judging by all the fins on the unit, I am guessing it is a resistor rather than a relay, it should be possible to replace the genuine unit with a resistor of similar capacity for pennies.
  14. Discounting the fact that he missed 4 of the engines fitted into Defenders by a Land Rover factory. Namely the 2.8 BMW straight 6, the Isuzu 3.9 turbo and non turbo and the 2.0 MPI (as fitted for the Italian market) https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/land-rover/defender/100597/the-best-ever-defender-engines
  15. They might be able to help you here. http://www.totectyres.co.uk/military.aspx
  16. The very early manifolds are ERC5069 or ERC3102 left hand side ERC5068 Right hand side later engines ETC5809 ETC5811 Injection engines ERR5023 rh Err5024 for the other side
  17. There is also this item. fits at the back of the exhaust manifold directly above the starter https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=erc5875&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10
  18. Series wheel cylinders which had seals fail before they even had pressure on them Series air intake hose which failed without ever having had the engine run Series military tank which was both the wrong size (wouldn't fit in the available space in the chassis) and the filler cap didn't fit 6 I kid you not 6 series clutch master cylinders which failed within a week of fitting
  19. It really is one of the easier jobs. It is literally a nut and bolt conversion, though you will need new stub axles and hubs
  20. Wonder if they are the same as those fitted to series steering columns? Just had a look and the short answer is no
  21. Might have to knock them out and take them to a bearing factor
  22. Thanks Ralph, but there is an earlier badge MTC6979 which is riveted in place. Managed to find one for sale in Italy. Though it was advertised as MTC9838 so I was expecting a badge with a sticky back Apparently the badge and rivets are only detailed in the very first parts catalogue from September 1983. Cannot find one anywhere. While I have your undivided attention, any ideas where the part Nos for the steering column bearings might be listed? Cannot find them in my parts book, though it describes how to do the job in the factory workshop manual
  23. On the very early One_Ten models, the badge was rivetted to the grille. I cannot find the part No anywhere, apparently only in the very first parts list, published in 1983. Anybody any ideas, please?
  24. I ran 235/85 on standard rims for years, as did a couple of friends, no issues to report
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