neil110

Burning oil has a very distinctive smell and is (typically) blue. If you have had your injectors serviced and they are in good order, then it is entirely possible that it is oil that has leaked past valve guide oil seals. More so in view of the fact that it isn't present at any other time.

How about this set up? https://www.paddockspares.com/revotec-electronic-fan-conversion-kit-90-110-v8-not-50th-anniversary.html

Genuine Land Rover

If you want a decent model of a Land Rover you could do worse than this, though it probably costs more than the vehicle it is based on. http://psmscalemodels.blogspot.com/p/land-rover.html

Try these chaps. http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/WAYSIDE-ADHESIVES-DIRECT

If you want a decent stainless exhaust that is guaranteed for ever. Go to PD Gough near Nottingham. They will build you a bespoke exhaust while you wait, for a few hours so take a good book, so it is a good fit, works well and doesn't cost the earth, not quite.

What type of rear axle do you have? If you have the earlier "Salisbury" type then order their earlier shocks. If you have the later "short nose" diff type order the later type shocks https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Land Rover

In the meantime they have become a magnet for every piece of pond scrum low life thieving scrote in the land

why go to all the trouble? why not simply buy a decent D2 V8 and use that? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-53-Land-Rover-Discovery-ES-V8I-AUTOMATIC-7-SEATS-JAPANESE/172881512068?hash=item28408a8684:g:yiIAAOSw5ixZxlms:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-53-LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-4-0-V8I-ES-5D-AUTO-182-BHP/173570392448?hash=item28699a0180:g:Hj4AAOSwiqNbtV3q:rk:7:pf:0

Typically around 88 deg C

Britpart don't make anything, apart from money.

If it was advertised as genuine and came in that cardboard box but proves to be non genuine you have got him bang to rights on trade descriptions. There are so m e minor blow holes in the casting which make me a bit wary of saying it is genuine.

Yes the V8 had in tank pumps from about 1986 onwards. At about the same time that Land Rover stopped fitting model specific wiring harnesses and introduced the all models, all markets harness. The 110 had a rear tank and there was always the option of an additional side tank, for all models.

How about the Land Rover genuine part recovery ring? Part No NRC5396

Looks like a good piece of kit, just not sure how it offers any radiation protection to the scaly backs if they are inside the vehicle with the radio kit?

That is a rare vehicle, especially in that condition. Whatever you remove when you make your modifications, I would store the parts, somewhere clean and dry, so you can refit them in the future.

Anti roll bars were not standard fitment. therefore not required for MoT

Further to the above, what sort of state are things like the rotor arm, distributor cap, plugs, leads and caps in?

At least you can now overhaul the defective units and keep them on the shelf for next time.

Rather than replace the cylinders, why not overhaul them? The overhaul kits are a fraction of the price of new units and, once you have the cylinders out, very little more work. I have been doing it this way for nearly 25 years.

Yes it is possible to do it using an engine hoist through the door.

Yes, the pads changed when the Salisbury axle was replaced by the short nose axle.

Just a personal preference, I'd stick with the military items, far more robust.

TD 5 has a different design clutch operating fork, a cast item similar to the V8. Thus unlikely you have punched a hole through it. Might be failure of seals in slave cylinder, if it was the master you would have an indication from the tell tale leaking into your footwell. The gearbox can be removed from below on a Defender, but is heavy, very heavy. It is also possible to split TB from main box whilst they are still in the vehicle. Drain it first because at least one of the bolts fastening them together goes into the oil reservoir of the TB. You will probably need to remove the tunnel anyway, in order to get to the various linkages/cables which operate hi/lo, diff lock etc How long the job will take depends upon the sort of facilities and equipment you have available to you. In essence it is possible for one person to do it over a weekend. Personally, I would do it from above and endure the removal of seat box etc. But I don't have any way of lifting the vehicle, neither do I have a pit. I have done it both ways, but when I did it from below, the engine was out if the vehicle so I didn't have to worry about lining everything up to get the mainshaft into the clutch. Get some M10 stud bar. Then if you do separate TB from main box in the truck and put it back the same way, you can screw lengths of stud into some of the threads for the bolts fastening them together, thus taking some of the weight and preventing the TB from "rolling" while you refit it. Bon chance!

If it hasn't moved in 3 years you might need to replace the brakes, the probability is that there will be significant rust on the discs at least. You might get away with a wire brush in a drill, depends on how close the discs are to the minimum thickness limit.