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SOA 93

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About SOA 93

  • Rank
    Old Hand

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    andybryers@hotmail .co.uk
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  • Location
    Southam, Warwickshire

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  • Interests
    Out doors type, serious Mountain biker for 10 years, always had a passion for Land rovers but never owned a drivable one until the Disco. I like the idea of having something that is not going to break all the time,doesn't every one? We shall see.
  1. I'm a whopping 1' 1" shorter than both Daan and Toylander, but for me the aswell, the RCC/Disco seating ergonomics are pretty perfect. From a practical point of view, the best thing to do is sit in your seat donor, ie. P38 and see if you can adjust it to your liking; If you settle on an arrangement you like then get a big piece of cardboard, plywood etc. and cut a silhouette of your seating position with the angle of steering wheel, seat base, seat back, pedals and eye level etc. You can then take your silhouette profile and offer it into position in your truck, this then gives better idea of
  2. I had some thoughts about this a few years ago, my thinking was to use the coiler shafts as well as the swivels, never got round to measuring it up due to a change in plan. However I always assumed that with the increased track of the coiler axles there would be more than enough space to have a machined adaptor made to bolt the two items together as has been suggested, the same as has been drawn but I always assumed it would need to be 50mm or so thick, threads for leaf in one side coiler threads in the other. Of course this means the measurements need to be based on the drive shaft length r
  3. Now that the there is bit more evidence suggesting a back up system, I think Will's idea of a manual box with a valve seems to get rid of the qestionable LR PAS box issue. Rakeway already make such a valve for the comp safari boys and it has LR splines on to boot. They have a ram asist set up that is designed to work with it as well. Andy Apologies, I have my Threads confused, this should of been in the ram assist thread.
  4. I use a 1/2 hour fire door as a work surface but I think kitchen work top would be a better surface, for what it's worth, fire doors are generally 44mm thick the same as external doors, you get 1/2 hour and 1 hour rating generally and although thought to to be solid, actually most are not, they are chipboard inside with circular voids running top to bottom. Weight and my jigsaw would say that the work top has the denser chipboard, Work top is available in 30mm, 40mm and the latest fad is now 50 or 60mm. A cheap 3m length of 40mm worktop should cost no more than about £70 and a 1/2 hour fire do
  5. My Local Travis Perkins stocks Sikaflex 'EBT' very flexible, and available in black or white. Seems to bond just about anything to anything., very impressed. Andy
  6. I think you can go and stand in the corner with Bill Van Snorkel, under achiever that you are! Can I nominate myself....bloody hopeless! Have a 88 SOA project leant up against the wall in the garage started 2005. Have big plans for my Disco, have had the wheels, tyres, axles winches etc. for 18 months and nothing has found its way onto the truck. Have bought welders, tube benders, saws, plasma......... The amount of steel tube, box etc int the garage is staggering. I see what other people on this forum do in there alloted time and I hold my head in shame. But I wasn't silly enough to s
  7. Another pic of Tim coopers 109, SOA really does make vehicles hugely unstable, that's why land rover used it on the FC101, and the rear of the 2B FC, both good load carriers. Toyota in their stupidity made the hugely successful Hilux SOA , idiots that they are. I can think of 3 good reasons for SOA: 1. Better approach and departure angles 2. No spring plate protrusion hanging down 3. Increased upward axle articulation
  8. If you mounted the ram to the centre of the track rod, you would reduce the chance of track rod bending, surely. Andy
  9. IMHO Tdi's give there maximum power(not BHP) at around 2000 RPM, most day to day driving is spent between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Dynamically balancing this engine for these sort of speeds would really be a money no object rebuild, the term 'blue printing' dates from the 60's and 70's when manufacturers tolerances were not as good as they are now, or 20 years ago. Balancing, blueprinting, port matching etc is all very well on engines destined for one make type production racing where modifications are strictly limited, but its an expensive way to get a little increase. If you are not bound by th
  10. DVD arrived Friday morning, watched Friday evening, will have chance to watch it again on Sunday. Thanks to all those involved in production and distribution. I've heard a rumour that in next years sequel that the nice English man, who saves peoples lives, wins!!! Andy
  11. It seems LandymanLuke, myself and I think a few others have been in the same situation as you now find yourself, I replaced my Clarke 150TE with a Portamig 211 and its a no nonsense piece of kit. I'll tell you what I've learnt about 'Portamig'; The original company went bust in the 80's, allegedly had a very good reputation for quality, however it seems there were to many fingers in the corporate pie and they went under. The Portamig name was sold to the company (in York) that now uses that name for its welders. I'm led to believe this company is, if not the largest, then one of the largest
  12. Jim, if your going to the Lake district this weekend the I assume your doing M5/M6 I'd be happy to meet at a motorway services if its convenient. If anyone else lives in the midlands then I live within M40/M6/M1 triangle so its relatively easy to access from many directions. Andy
  13. In th 80's I had a '84 Suzuki RM 125 that was a pre-disc model, it had a twin leading shoe arrangment on the front that was probably better than some of the first disc attempts, about mid to late 80's EBC brought out a range of brake shoes for this age of bikes that had grooves in the linings, I had a set and they were extremely effective, the groves went as deep as the minimum wear for the linings, not all the way through to the metal. Andy
  14. I've bought one had it a few months now, for the money I can't fault it, does exactly what it says. It'll cut through 2" blue band in about 2 to 3 seconds, I've cut 50mm 6mm wall CDS with it and mitred 2" 5mm wall box all with no problems. The chips that come off it are bloody hot though so gloves, face shield and a melt proof jacket are recommended . I don't doubt it won't put up up with 'day in, day out' constant use, but I think its cheap for what it does. They do a more heavy duty cut off saw with a 14" blade, which I think is more steel oriented and the blade is alleged to last longe
  15. Beat me to it. I've assembled a 2.5 straight through in stainless from there parts, I'm not far from them. They only thing I would not recommend is there clamping brackets, better to assemble with clamps and then weld, even when done up to the max they still came loose. Andy
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