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SOA 93

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About SOA 93

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    Old Hand

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    andybryers@hotmail .co.uk
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  • Location
    Southam, Warwickshire

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  • Interests
    Out doors type, serious Mountain biker for 10 years, always had a passion for Land rovers but never owned a drivable one until the Disco. I like the idea of having something that is not going to break all the time,doesn't every one? We shall see.
  1. I'm a whopping 1' 1" shorter than both Daan and Toylander, but for me the aswell, the RCC/Disco seating ergonomics are pretty perfect. From a practical point of view, the best thing to do is sit in your seat donor, ie. P38 and see if you can adjust it to your liking; If you settle on an arrangement you like then get a big piece of cardboard, plywood etc. and cut a silhouette of your seating position with the angle of steering wheel, seat base, seat back, pedals and eye level etc. You can then take your silhouette profile and offer it into position in your truck, this then gives better idea of what needs changing, 'sods law' dictates that all the ideas about bulkhead, footwells and steering wheel will all need changing to get your perfect set up, rather than just one. Lastly, what about an adjustable Disco column, could one be adapted to fit, did they do an adjustable on the 200 version? if so that would be most suitable.
  2. I remember reading the drilled bushings threads a few years after they began, I think they even had some voided bushes prototyped, but I seem to remember the final consensus was that they did affect braking or not so much braking as allowing the axle to rotate and the longevity was poor. Scrap Iron sold poly bushes that had a small void in them, just checked, 'Polybush' still list them. As a loaded camper van I'd of thought you need to stay away from drilling bushes etc. It's a bit late now, but I think lengthening the radius arms has become the thing to do now, at least to get +5 damper travel.
  3. Pictures of Combicolor. Prep Primer Topcoat
  4. Another vote for Combicolor, recommended to me by one of the guys at the local auto paint store, I've been spaying my chassis and other stuff with it, goes on very nicely, its very forgiving, which it needs to be when I have a spray gun in my hand, I tend to be a little heavy with coats but it seems to flow out nicely, It does recommend thin coats and I think it would probably be more chip resistant with a few light coats rather than a heavy coat.
  5. I think the OP's comment "legendary reliability" is just that 'Legend', all manufacturers suffer issues or faults, it seems to me some manufactures seem to hold on to their reputation whatever, Toyota were top of the JD power survey for a few years awhile ago and along with VW still hold their quality, reliability reputation despite being over taken by other manufacturers, look at Mercedes, after the merger with Chrysler they went down hill rapidly, expensive rot box's, yet in the general public's eye still a premium brand. You see it even more in countries like Thailand where Merc's hold an almost God like status. Whatever make, there are plenty of people out there who are only too willing to share their tales of woe regarding a manufacturer. Are you posing this question on a LC forum as well? Doubt you'd get such a balanced view.
  6. Perhaps you could give the genuine one a smack with a hammer and report back. I'm assuming the Lemfroder joints are genuine is that correct? Back when X-Eng first brought out the X-ball there was a discussion on here about joints, and I brought up the Fact that Rakeway were modifying the joints for high angle use in there front suspension on the Ridgeback, they used A-Frame ball joints top and bottom to connect the wishbones to the uprights. Can you take the adjustable ones apart? If you can then you could maybe clearance one just in the plane you want the extra travel. The Britpart one come with a 2 year warranty, can I assume that's only valid if it stays in the box.
  7. Surely you'd go for an X-ball? To go along with your X-Arms, I'm going to give the new Britpart one a go.
  8. Many years ago I borrowed a farmers 88 pick-up, that was the diesel with the rotary injection pump, not sure if the later ones had the inline pump. That was on 7.50's and would do 40 easily but flat out at 45, just felt like it hit a wall at 45. I thought the petrol's were only good for 70, so 45 sounds about right to me. 60 Hp in a Austin Metro would get you to 90 mph, add in 4WD and brick aerodynamics, maximum torque is at 1800rpm, it may not have the power to reach its 4000rpm max HP in 4th gear, and of course its 35 years old.
  9. Yrm are selling radius arm bolts as a kit A4/80 grade, 4 bolts and nuts for £20, making them 3-4 times more expensive than normal 8.8s.
  10. Thanks for clarifying Mike I was full aware of your background which is why your comment carried so much weight. What grade bolts are you using at work? I use SS wood screws occasionally, I don't have a clue what grade they are but they are softer, the heads chew much more easily, trouble is with cordless drills and impact drivers we forget just how much torque we are applying. Sorry Mike, could you redo that one sentence, "They fire up for a past time normally just before they go tight." I've tried to understand what you mean and looked at my keyboard to try and fathom if there was a miss typed key or something, to no avail, it looked like it should be an important comment. As for Rover specification, I would think cost would be far too much to even consider Stainless steel. Many people on this Forum spare no expense on Land Rover modifications and Rebuilds, so the expense of SS fasteners is not the question in this case. On paper at least, there are Stainless bolts that are comparable to 8.8 steel bolts in strength. Galling is a known issue with stainless as has been stated already, however when I put all new suspension on my Disco in the Summer I'd say 75% of the bolts on my Disco had to be undone with a 240v 115mm adjustable. How many of us have had a 5 minute job turn into a marathon ordeal because of a rusted bolt. The lower bolt on the panhard drop arm had rusted into the arm, nut came off ok, but I ended up snapping the head of trying to get it free, things like that are why I'd like to use SS if its up to it.
  11. I understand what you mean by the bolt being in shear in the radius arms, only as I understand it, it is the clamping force of the bolt on the bush sleeve that is keeping everything in place, and if the bolt is tight enough then it should see no sheer force on the bolt, the sheer force should be resisted by the bush sleeve being clamped by the axle mountings. Regarding the shear strength of bolts, well as above, not really certain they should be used in a shear situation, they should be using their clamping force to resist shear. Think of a ring gear in a axle you are not relying on the shear strength of the bolts to resist spinning on the diff centre but the clamping force and the friction/resistance between them, which can be demonstrated when the bolts come loose and do indeed shear off. Bolts are also listed as having an elongation measurement, I'll admit I don't understand most of these measurements which is why I posed the question about the radius arms, I never stop learning, so I'm happy to be educated/proved wrong, it's all good stuff, it's just when I read comments like: " Don't use them for anything structural as they are nowhere near as strong as steel bolts." From someone as respected as Miketomcat, no offence Mike, then what little I know about fasteners is called into question. Going by Litch's comment they sound like a great idea, I have been replacing bolts on my disco with SS, I used M12 on my custom damper mounts, if there is a 'structural integrity' question mark about these bolts then I'd like to be educated. I should point out that some of my comments are also referring to the linked previous post on the subject. It would be nice to get a reasoned answer on this subject, and put it to bed once and for all.
  12. I see they do towing kits in stainless and even a Nato hitch kit, Spawn of Satan obviously. The Nato hitch kit does come with a safety note mind. I assume the bolts are A2/70.
  13. I broke something trying to get the whole unit out as said above, once it was out I could see it had 2 tags at the bottom and 2 at the top, I struggled for a while before eventually breaking something, since seen it done with 2 credit cards, wish I'd known before, not sure where I saw it, You tube or tech archive something like that.
  14. I'm obviously missing something about this strength issue with bolts, if the bolts tensile strength is the same then surely the bolts are as strong as each other? An 8.8 grade bolt has a tensile strength of 800N/mm2 An A2/80 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 800/mm2 An A2/70 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 700/mm2, even that is hardly a weak bolt, these are what Scewfix stock. If you used the next size up in bolts then it would more than compensate for the tensile strength, surely, so if you used an M12 A2/70 instead of an M10/8.8 the stainless bolt would be stronger. I thought the whole 'Stainless steel is Harder' was a misconception arising from people trying to cut or drill it in the same manner as carbon steel, whereas it is in fact softer and requires different speed/techniques. I'll ask 'The' question: Why shouldn't I use a A2/80 M16 bolt in the radius arm mounts of my Discovery? Assuming the standard bolts are 8.8, I cannot see the reason you would need stronger than 8.8 it's M16 after all. What do they use in the North sea? A4/80 I would of thought.
  15. I think some of the lorry auto box's are automated manuals; they still have a clutch but it is actuated electronically rather than by the driver. I had a Peugeot Bipper with a pileof****e 2-tronic gearbox, basically a manual with electronic control, after 3 years with it, I can honestly say it was carp to the point of being dangerous. I'm far from an expert on auto's but my basic understanding is auto's are epicycle so one gear pack gives you in effect 3 gears, depending on whether the sun wheel, planet wheel or annulus are locked, so I'm assuming an extra gear pack won't give you an extra 3 gears but could give you an extra 6 gears or something along those lines, a gross over simplification granted but hopefully you get the idea. Probably the biggest difference in electronically controlled auto's is the ability to lock up the torque convertor,To get better economy you want the engine driving at its most efficient RPM, with a electronically controlled auto you can remove driver error, for maximum acceleration you want the engine at peak torque, so with a modern auto its programmed to keep the engine at peek torque under hard acceleration and with a choice of 6,8 or 9 gears and a TC that can be locked at will, it has a fair selection of tools to choose from. The best gearbox for acceleration would be one that kept the engine at peak torque constantly and continually varied the stepless gearing, a 9 speed auto with a clever TC is going to start getting pretty close to this I would of thought. Mechanical and pumping losses, like everything else I suppose, have been reduced by more efficient systems in the same way as engines have. I drove manuals exclusively for 20 years and had much the same opinion as the OP, for the last 10 years its been auto's and despite the Bipper I would not buy another manual.
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