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SOA 93

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Everything posted by SOA 93

  1. I'm a whopping 1' 1" shorter than both Daan and Toylander, but for me the aswell, the RCC/Disco seating ergonomics are pretty perfect. From a practical point of view, the best thing to do is sit in your seat donor, ie. P38 and see if you can adjust it to your liking; If you settle on an arrangement you like then get a big piece of cardboard, plywood etc. and cut a silhouette of your seating position with the angle of steering wheel, seat base, seat back, pedals and eye level etc. You can then take your silhouette profile and offer it into position in your truck, this then gives better idea of
  2. I remember reading the drilled bushings threads a few years after they began, I think they even had some voided bushes prototyped, but I seem to remember the final consensus was that they did affect braking or not so much braking as allowing the axle to rotate and the longevity was poor. Scrap Iron sold poly bushes that had a small void in them, just checked, 'Polybush' still list them. As a loaded camper van I'd of thought you need to stay away from drilling bushes etc. It's a bit late now, but I think lengthening the radius arms has become the thing to do now, at least to get +5 damper tr
  3. Pictures of Combicolor. Prep Primer Topcoat
  4. Another vote for Combicolor, recommended to me by one of the guys at the local auto paint store, I've been spaying my chassis and other stuff with it, goes on very nicely, its very forgiving, which it needs to be when I have a spray gun in my hand, I tend to be a little heavy with coats but it seems to flow out nicely, It does recommend thin coats and I think it would probably be more chip resistant with a few light coats rather than a heavy coat.
  5. I think the OP's comment "legendary reliability" is just that 'Legend', all manufacturers suffer issues or faults, it seems to me some manufactures seem to hold on to their reputation whatever, Toyota were top of the JD power survey for a few years awhile ago and along with VW still hold their quality, reliability reputation despite being over taken by other manufacturers, look at Mercedes, after the merger with Chrysler they went down hill rapidly, expensive rot box's, yet in the general public's eye still a premium brand. You see it even more in countries like Thailand where Merc's hold an a
  6. Perhaps you could give the genuine one a smack with a hammer and report back. I'm assuming the Lemfroder joints are genuine is that correct? Back when X-Eng first brought out the X-ball there was a discussion on here about joints, and I brought up the Fact that Rakeway were modifying the joints for high angle use in there front suspension on the Ridgeback, they used A-Frame ball joints top and bottom to connect the wishbones to the uprights. Can you take the adjustable ones apart? If you can then you could maybe clearance one just in the plane you want the extra travel. The Britpart one com
  7. Surely you'd go for an X-ball? To go along with your X-Arms, I'm going to give the new Britpart one a go.
  8. Many years ago I borrowed a farmers 88 pick-up, that was the diesel with the rotary injection pump, not sure if the later ones had the inline pump. That was on 7.50's and would do 40 easily but flat out at 45, just felt like it hit a wall at 45. I thought the petrol's were only good for 70, so 45 sounds about right to me. 60 Hp in a Austin Metro would get you to 90 mph, add in 4WD and brick aerodynamics, maximum torque is at 1800rpm, it may not have the power to reach its 4000rpm max HP in 4th gear, and of course its 35 years old.
  9. Yrm are selling radius arm bolts as a kit A4/80 grade, 4 bolts and nuts for £20, making them 3-4 times more expensive than normal 8.8s.
  10. Thanks for clarifying Mike I was full aware of your background which is why your comment carried so much weight. What grade bolts are you using at work? I use SS wood screws occasionally, I don't have a clue what grade they are but they are softer, the heads chew much more easily, trouble is with cordless drills and impact drivers we forget just how much torque we are applying. Sorry Mike, could you redo that one sentence, "They fire up for a past time normally just before they go tight." I've tried to understand what you mean and looked at my keyboard to try and fathom if there was a miss t
  11. I understand what you mean by the bolt being in shear in the radius arms, only as I understand it, it is the clamping force of the bolt on the bush sleeve that is keeping everything in place, and if the bolt is tight enough then it should see no sheer force on the bolt, the sheer force should be resisted by the bush sleeve being clamped by the axle mountings. Regarding the shear strength of bolts, well as above, not really certain they should be used in a shear situation, they should be using their clamping force to resist shear. Think of a ring gear in a axle you are not relying on the shea
  12. I see they do towing kits in stainless and even a Nato hitch kit, Spawn of Satan obviously. The Nato hitch kit does come with a safety note mind. I assume the bolts are A2/70.
  13. I broke something trying to get the whole unit out as said above, once it was out I could see it had 2 tags at the bottom and 2 at the top, I struggled for a while before eventually breaking something, since seen it done with 2 credit cards, wish I'd known before, not sure where I saw it, You tube or tech archive something like that.
  14. I'm obviously missing something about this strength issue with bolts, if the bolts tensile strength is the same then surely the bolts are as strong as each other? An 8.8 grade bolt has a tensile strength of 800N/mm2 An A2/80 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 800/mm2 An A2/70 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 700/mm2, even that is hardly a weak bolt, these are what Scewfix stock. If you used the next size up in bolts then it would more than compensate for the tensile strength, surely, so if you used an M12 A2/70 instead of an M10/8.8 the stainless bolt would be stronger. I t
  15. I think some of the lorry auto box's are automated manuals; they still have a clutch but it is actuated electronically rather than by the driver. I had a Peugeot Bipper with a pileof****e 2-tronic gearbox, basically a manual with electronic control, after 3 years with it, I can honestly say it was carp to the point of being dangerous. I'm far from an expert on auto's but my basic understanding is auto's are epicycle so one gear pack gives you in effect 3 gears, depending on whether the sun wheel, planet wheel or annulus are locked, so I'm assuming an extra gear pack won't give you an extra
  16. I hope the sound of a 350hp V8 drowns out the sound of the drive belt squealing, not enough wrap around that pulley.
  17. Pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air is called 'Leak-down test', I've just Bing'd 'leak down tester' and there is a good page on Wikipedia. The professional kits are usually far more expensive than compression testers. Having seen the sort of things you can make I don't think making one of these is going to cause you too much trouble.
  18. I get this grumbling and whining noise in all my cars........but its only when the wife is in the passenger seat Hat, coat......
  19. What actually lead you to the assumption that there was something wrong with your cooling system. Your engine is not overheating, its running perfect. Are you having some coolant loss? An efficient cooling system shouldn't be hot everywhere while idling and I'm assuming you not grabbing hoses and touching the radiator at 70mph! So what was not working to make you think you have a problem?
  20. First off I have no TD5 experience, however, there is some basic things that applies to most if not all cooling systems. Firstly, cooling systems are designed to be pressurized when hot, secondly the old style radiator cap and the reservoir cap of modern cars are pressure relief valves, usually set to release pressure at about 13psi, so if your system is over pressurising then it sounds like the reservoir cap is not functioning as it should, however, you say that you have replaced it. The hose should not bulge substantially no matter what, perhaps take it off and check it internally make sure
  21. Not sure where I read it now, may have been SVA manual, but you should be ok as your Pit Bulls have a equivalent DOT coding on them, I think that's the American equivalent of the EU E standard. At least that's how I read it.
  22. A guy who lives just along from me works for Southam Tyres/Micheldever, I think he is a buyer for them, we were talking about my Pit Bull Rockers a while back and he said that Southam Tyres had looked into importing them along with INTERCO some time ago, the size and aggressiveness of the Tyres is not the problem apparently, the problem is the Americans still use aromatic oil in the manufacture of said Tyres, which is either not allowed in the EU or has been banned completely. I got the impression Southam Tyres would happily import these Tyres otherwise, it sounded like the rest of the world h
  23. I know the part numbers are different but that could just be black film around the window, will the screen physically fit? I know LR extended the rear of the TD5, but did/would they have changed the screen surround for no reason? I have a cracked screen in my 300, however its only cracked on the inner glass, I'm having to do a lot of welding in that area due to rot. The existing screen is a different make to all the other glass on it, so I'm presuming its been replaced at some point. Not sure if the crack is due to all the rust or that the crack is the cause of rot in that area, I'm suspect
  24. While looking through a series 3 manual the other night, for some thing else, I happened on the Leaf spring height setting. It seems Land rover recommend a certain gap between leaf spring and bump stop, now the interesting part was that if it was over the recommended gap, then it said to chain the axle to the chassis to close the gap up and then when the gap was at recommended height to tighten all bushing bolts. I'd never heard of that before, but thinking about it logically it would be a clever way so soften the suspension a little, if you compressed the spring and then tightened the bushes
  25. Not sure if this will help, does a 97 Disco have the same system as your RRC? Mine has the modulator on the passenger inner wing, I took photo's of it all before I striped out the inner wing.
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