SOA 93
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Posts posted by SOA 93
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I remember reading the drilled bushings threads a few years after they began, I think they even had some voided bushes prototyped, but I seem to remember the final consensus was that they did affect braking or not so much braking as allowing the axle to rotate and the longevity was poor.
Scrap Iron sold poly bushes that had a small void in them, just checked, 'Polybush' still list them.
As a loaded camper van I'd of thought you need to stay away from drilling bushes etc.
It's a bit late now, but I think lengthening the radius arms has become the thing to do now, at least to get +5 damper travel.
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Pictures of Combicolor.Prep
Primer
Topcoat
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Another vote for Combicolor, recommended to me by one of the guys at the local auto paint store, I've been spaying my chassis and other stuff with it, goes on very nicely, its very forgiving, which it needs to be when I have a spray gun in my hand, I tend to be a little heavy with coats but it seems to flow out nicely, It does recommend thin coats and I think it would probably be more chip resistant with a few light coats rather than a heavy coat.
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I think the OP's comment "legendary reliability" is just that 'Legend', all manufacturers suffer issues or faults, it seems to me some manufactures seem to hold on to their reputation whatever, Toyota were top of the JD power survey for a few years awhile ago and along with VW still hold their quality, reliability reputation despite being over taken by other manufacturers, look at Mercedes, after the merger with Chrysler they went down hill rapidly, expensive rot box's, yet in the general public's eye still a premium brand. You see it even more in countries like Thailand where Merc's hold an almost God like status.
Whatever make, there are plenty of people out there who are only too willing to share their tales of woe regarding a manufacturer.
Are you posing this question on a LC forum as well? Doubt you'd get such a balanced view.
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Perhaps you could give the genuine one a smack with a hammer and report back. I'm assuming the Lemfroder joints are genuine is that correct?
Back when X-Eng first brought out the X-ball there was a discussion on here about joints, and I brought up the Fact that Rakeway were modifying the joints for high angle use in there front suspension on the Ridgeback, they used A-Frame ball joints top and bottom to connect the wishbones to the uprights.
Can you take the adjustable ones apart? If you can then you could maybe clearance one just in the plane you want the extra travel.
The Britpart one come with a 2 year warranty, can I assume that's only valid if it stays in the box.
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Surely you'd go for an X-ball? To go along with your X-Arms, I'm going to give the new Britpart one a go.
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Many years ago I borrowed a farmers 88 pick-up, that was the diesel with the rotary injection pump, not sure if the later ones had the inline pump.
That was on 7.50's and would do 40 easily but flat out at 45, just felt like it hit a wall at 45.
I thought the petrol's were only good for 70, so 45 sounds about right to me.
60 Hp in a Austin Metro would get you to 90 mph, add in 4WD and brick aerodynamics, maximum torque is at 1800rpm, it may not have the power to reach its 4000rpm max HP in 4th gear, and of course its 35 years old.
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Yrm are selling radius arm bolts as a kit A4/80 grade, 4 bolts and nuts for £20, making them 3-4 times more expensive than normal 8.8s.
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Thanks for clarifying Mike I was full aware of your background which is why your comment carried so much weight. What grade bolts are you using at work?
I use SS wood screws occasionally, I don't have a clue what grade they are but they are softer, the heads chew much more easily, trouble is with cordless drills and impact drivers we forget just how much torque we are applying.
Sorry Mike, could you redo that one sentence, "They fire up for a past time normally just before they go tight." I've tried to understand what you mean and looked at my keyboard to try and fathom if there was a miss typed key or something, to no avail, it looked like it should be an important comment.
As for Rover specification, I would think cost would be far too much to even consider Stainless steel.
Many people on this Forum spare no expense on Land Rover modifications and Rebuilds, so the expense of SS fasteners is not the question in this case.
On paper at least, there are Stainless bolts that are comparable to 8.8 steel bolts in strength.
Galling is a known issue with stainless as has been stated already, however when I put all new suspension on my Disco in the Summer I'd say 75% of the bolts on my Disco had to be undone with a 240v 115mm adjustable.
How many of us have had a 5 minute job turn into a marathon ordeal because of a rusted bolt.
The lower bolt on the panhard drop arm had rusted into the arm, nut came off ok, but I ended up snapping the head of trying to get it free, things like that are why I'd like to use SS if its up to it.
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I understand what you mean by the bolt being in shear in the radius arms, only as I understand it, it is the clamping force of the bolt on the bush sleeve that is keeping everything in place, and if the bolt is tight enough then it should see no sheer force on the bolt, the sheer force should be resisted by the bush sleeve being clamped by the axle mountings.
Regarding the shear strength of bolts, well as above, not really certain they should be used in a shear situation, they should be using their clamping force to resist shear.
Think of a ring gear in a axle you are not relying on the shear strength of the bolts to resist spinning on the diff centre but the clamping force and the friction/resistance between them, which can be demonstrated when the bolts come loose and do indeed shear off.
Bolts are also listed as having an elongation measurement, I'll admit I don't understand most of these measurements which is why I posed the question about the radius arms, I never stop learning, so I'm happy to be educated/proved wrong, it's all good stuff, it's just when I read comments like:
" Don't use them for anything structural as they are nowhere near as strong as steel bolts."
From someone as respected as Miketomcat, no offence Mike, then what little I know about fasteners is called into question.
Going by Litch's comment they sound like a great idea, I have been replacing bolts on my disco with SS, I used M12 on my custom damper mounts, if there is a 'structural integrity' question mark about these bolts then I'd like to be educated.
I should point out that some of my comments are also referring to the linked previous post on the subject.
It would be nice to get a reasoned answer on this subject, and put it to bed once and for all.
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I see they do towing kits in stainless and even a Nato hitch kit, Spawn of Satan obviously.
The Nato hitch kit does come with a safety note mind. I assume the bolts are A2/70.
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I broke something trying to get the whole unit out as said above, once it was out I could see it had 2 tags at the bottom and 2 at the top, I struggled for a while before eventually breaking something, since seen it done with 2 credit cards, wish I'd known before, not sure where I saw it, You tube or tech archive something like that.
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I'm obviously missing something about this strength issue with bolts, if the bolts tensile strength is the same then surely the bolts are as strong as each other?
An 8.8 grade bolt has a tensile strength of 800N/mm2
An A2/80 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 800/mm2
An A2/70 Stainless bolt has a tensile strength of 700/mm2, even that is hardly a weak bolt, these are what Scewfix stock.
If you used the next size up in bolts then it would more than compensate for the tensile strength, surely, so if you used an M12 A2/70 instead of an M10/8.8 the stainless bolt would be stronger.
I thought the whole 'Stainless steel is Harder' was a misconception arising from people trying to cut or drill it in the same manner as carbon steel, whereas it is in fact softer and requires different speed/techniques.
I'll ask 'The' question: Why shouldn't I use a A2/80 M16 bolt in the radius arm mounts of my Discovery? Assuming the standard bolts are 8.8, I cannot see the reason you would need stronger than 8.8 it's M16 after all.
What do they use in the North sea? A4/80 I would of thought.
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I think some of the lorry auto box's are automated manuals; they still have a clutch but it is actuated electronically rather than by the driver.
I had a Peugeot Bipper with a
pileof****e2-tronic gearbox, basically a manual with electronic control, after 3 years with it, I can honestly say it was carp to the point of being dangerous.I'm far from an expert on auto's but my basic understanding is auto's are epicycle so one gear pack gives you in effect 3 gears, depending on whether the sun wheel, planet wheel or annulus are locked, so I'm assuming an extra gear pack won't give you an extra 3 gears but could give you an extra 6 gears or something along those lines, a gross over simplification granted but hopefully you get the idea.
Probably the biggest difference in electronically controlled auto's is the ability to lock up the torque convertor,To get better economy you want the engine driving at its most efficient RPM, with a electronically controlled auto you can remove driver error, for maximum acceleration you want the engine at peak torque, so with a modern auto its programmed to keep the engine at peek torque under hard acceleration and with a choice of 6,8 or 9 gears and a TC that can be locked at will, it has a fair selection of tools to choose from.
The best gearbox for acceleration would be one that kept the engine at peak torque constantly and continually varied the stepless gearing, a 9 speed auto with a clever TC is going to start getting pretty close to this I would of thought.
Mechanical and pumping losses, like everything else I suppose, have been reduced by more efficient systems in the same way as engines have.
I drove manuals exclusively for 20 years and had much the same opinion as the OP, for the last 10 years its been auto's and despite the Bipper I would not buy another manual.
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I hope the sound of a 350hp V8 drowns out the sound of the drive belt squealing, not enough wrap around that pulley.
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Pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air is called 'Leak-down test', I've just Bing'd 'leak down tester' and there is a good page on Wikipedia.
The professional kits are usually far more expensive than compression testers.
Having seen the sort of things you can make I don't think making one of these is going to cause you too much trouble.
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I get this grumbling and whining noise in all my cars........but its only when the wife is in the passenger seat
Hat, coat......
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What actually lead you to the assumption that there was something wrong with your cooling system.
Your engine is not overheating, its running perfect.
Are you having some coolant loss?
An efficient cooling system shouldn't be hot everywhere while idling and I'm assuming you not grabbing hoses and touching the radiator at 70mph!
So what was not working to make you think you have a problem?
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First off I have no TD5 experience, however, there is some basic things that applies to most if not all cooling systems. Firstly, cooling systems are designed to be pressurized when hot, secondly the old style radiator cap and the reservoir cap of modern cars are pressure relief valves, usually set to release pressure at about 13psi, so if your system is over pressurising then it sounds like the reservoir cap is not functioning as it should, however, you say that you have replaced it. The hose should not bulge substantially no matter what, perhaps take it off and check it internally make sure it hasn't collapsed internally, if the engine is hot then the coolant could be at 10psi so the coolant pipes won't be easy to squeeze, but that doesn't explain why its still hard when cold.
Is there a correct sequence for refilling coolant on a TD5? Some cars have to be filled in a certain way to prevent air getting trapped.
You don't have to have oil in your coolant or the other way round for it to be the head gasket or a crack, either could just be into the coolant system while the oil system is intact.
My experience with coolant into combustion chamber is a pressurised cooling system when hot with some coolant loss and then when starting, starts -1 cylinder or when very bad an initial hydraulic lock.
You need to do a pressure check cold, On tdi's its easy because they have a 1/2 BSP threaded boss in the top of a radiator, not sure about the TD5, If you can't then you need to take it to a garage or someone that can do a cold system pressure test, pump the system up firstly to over 13 psi or whatever the pressure relief is set to and make sure that works, and then back off to just below the pressure relief setting and then leave it for a while and make sure it is holding pressure, if it has dropped then there is a leak, the good thing about doing a pressure check cold is that without the engine running you can usually see and sometimes hear a leak at 10 psi, I should point out that it needs to be cold as if the engine is hot then the pressure will drop at the coolant cools naturally. Check externally for leaks, if your sure you have no external leaks but are still getting a pressure drop then it could well be internal.
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Not sure where I read it now, may have been SVA manual, but you should be ok as your Pit Bulls have a equivalent DOT coding on them, I think that's the American equivalent of the EU E standard. At least that's how I read it.
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A guy who lives just along from me works for Southam Tyres/Micheldever, I think he is a buyer for them, we were talking about my Pit Bull Rockers a while back and he said that Southam Tyres had looked into importing them along with INTERCO some time ago, the size and aggressiveness of the Tyres is not the problem apparently, the problem is the Americans still use aromatic oil in the manufacture of said Tyres, which is either not allowed in the EU or has been banned completely. I got the impression Southam Tyres would happily import these Tyres otherwise, it sounded like the rest of the world had stopped using the banned oil but in typical fashion the Americans didn't give a toss, and I think the market elsewhere is not big enough to make them change there minds.
He also told me he could sort me out a phone number for a guy who would/could import odd Tyres if I ever needed, although the guy does not deal in 4x4 Tyres he was happy to bring in the odd tyre.
I don't know this neighbour particularly well, so I ought to say allegedly!
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I know the part numbers are different but that could just be black film around the window, will the screen physically fit?
I know LR extended the rear of the TD5, but did/would they have changed the screen surround for no reason?
I have a cracked screen in my 300, however its only cracked on the inner glass, I'm having to do a lot of welding in that area due to rot.
The existing screen is a different make to all the other glass on it, so I'm presuming its been replaced at some point. Not sure if the crack is due to all the rust or that the crack is the cause of rot in that area, I'm suspecting they cracked screen putting it in but as the crack is below the dash you couldn't see it.
Not sure how the insurance will react to this as from the outside the screen is intact, its only because I've removed the dash to do the repairs that you can see/feel the crack.
There is a couple of heated screens on Eblag One is miles away but its a 300 the other is fairly close but a little more expensive and it's for a TD5.
Brit car list the 300 screen but its £350 + VAT.
Cheers
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While looking through a series 3 manual the other night, for some thing else, I happened on the Leaf spring height setting. It seems Land rover recommend a certain gap between leaf spring and bump stop, now the interesting part was that if it was over the recommended gap, then it said to chain the axle to the chassis to close the gap up and then when the gap was at recommended height to tighten all bushing bolts.
I'd never heard of that before, but thinking about it logically it would be a clever way so soften the suspension a little, if you compressed the spring and then tightened the bushes then when the spring was unloaded the bushes would be in tension, but when the spring got compressed by a bump the preloaded tension in the bushes would get relaxed as the bush went into its normal state for a second.
As per normal procedure of tightening bushes when all the vehicle is on its wheels, well of course the bump not only has to deflect the spring but also the resistance of the bushes.
Does that make sense?
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Not sure if this will help, does a 97 Disco have the same system as your RRC? Mine has the modulator on the passenger inner wing, I took photo's of it all before I striped out the inner wing.
More legroom in Series.
in International Forum
Posted
I'm a whopping 1' 1" shorter than both Daan and Toylander, but for me the aswell, the RCC/Disco seating ergonomics are pretty perfect. From a practical point of view, the best thing to do is sit in your seat donor, ie. P38 and see if you can adjust it to your liking; If you settle on an arrangement you like then get a big piece of cardboard, plywood etc. and cut a silhouette of your seating position with the angle of steering wheel, seat base, seat back, pedals and eye level etc. You can then take your silhouette profile and offer it into position in your truck, this then gives better idea of what needs changing, 'sods law' dictates that all the ideas about bulkhead, footwells and steering wheel will all need changing to get your perfect set up, rather than just one.
Lastly, what about an adjustable Disco column, could one be adapted to fit, did they do an adjustable on the 200 version? if so that would be most suitable.