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Getting Comfortable
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    Usk

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  1. I was starting to have issues with finding gears. I took the gearstick housing off the top of the gbox and found that the set screw which locates the socket which receives the gearstick was loose and not operating the forks properly.
  2. If you can’t clamp braided hose, how do you stop fluid loss when changing calipers, etc.? Just let it all go and refill?
  3. I have mine in the top hose and this is what I did. It comes on and off as necessary. I also have the power feed coming from an ignition switched aux fuse box, so it can’t run with engine off.
  4. Thanks. My experiences of recon units of any sort are not brilliant. i am happy with the breather system. Fitted an Alisport cyclone a few years back as was fed up of the old one leaking. There are no leaks from the breather system and I removed it out of the air intake yesterday with no noticeable oil splatter or air pressure from it.
  5. I have a 300tdi and have noticed of late that the joints on the air induction system downstream of the turbo are quite wet. The side of the engine under the turbo has a reasonable amount of oil on it and I am sure this is coming out of the air system. Possibly linked is I live on a hill and when I start off down it on a cold morning I’m throwing out white smoke out of the exhaust. This isn’t the case on a warmer morning, so haven’t decided if it is a cause for concern yet. I don’t think the head gasket is leaking water into the engine, haven’t checked injectors at all. It does pull well I have to say. I checked the play on the turbo today. There was a good amount of play. I rotated the turbine pressing it to the side and there didn’t seem to be any resistance, although I am sure the operational forces are far higher than I can exert to cause the vanes to contact the casing. I’m minded to say I need either a recon or new turbo. Any thoughts before I crack on in the new year?
  6. I have some rock sliders which have a bracket going through the round outrigger then a bolt and large washer through the back of the outrigger to keep it in place. Not much help for the front though.
  7. When I rebuilt my 90 with heavy duty springs I just left the damper to nuts off until I fitted the engine. I didn’t like the idea of the dampers taking all that load (although that’s what happens if u jack up off the chassis)
  8. You will need to lengthen both intercooler hoses and the top rad hose, bottom will be ok. The oil cooler pipes can be extended at a hydraulic supplier, cost me £75. Power steering pipes will fit. Suggest you get an electric fan as viscous won’t work. Mounting on revotec is good, better than kenlow when I bought mine. if it’s a disco engine the air inlet pipe runs up the passenger side of bay, when defender goes behind engine. It won’t go behind engine now as it sits so close to the bulkhead, so I just stuck a conical filter on the end of the disco intake hose
  9. Try turning the screwdriver whilst knocking the head with a hammer. Otherwise drill out and replace with countersunk Allen bolts. The only reason to split the runners is to change the plastic clips which the seat base snaps into
  10. I have done this conversion with standard 300tdi flywheel housing and lt777 bellhousing. There is a blank bole in the flywheel housing at 6 o’clock which I drilled and tapped and mates with the lt77 correctly. Main advantage of retaining 300tdi flywheel housing is keeping the correct timing hole. I can’t see any significant strength is lost with reduced bolts as the engine and gearbox are both supported on two sides.
  11. I had a similar problem with my old man’s defender. We changed the vac pump and fiddled about with the servo but nothing worked. By coincidence we noticed the rear pads were worn out and when we changed them discovered that both calipers were seized. Changed the calipers and put in new pads the brakes performed much much better.
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